Travels in Rueda

July 1, 2009
Driving out of Segovia raving over last night’s tapas of grilled asparagus, zucchini, shrimp, garlic and smoked salt, we head for La Seca in the heart of D.O. Rueda. Now widely renowned for its fresh white wines made from Verdejo, in the 1970s, the Verdejo grape was practically wiped out by more prolific varieties such as Viura and Palomino. Visionary Angel Rodríguez realized the treasure in his 17th-century Martinsancho Verdejo vineyard and refused to uproot it. For his untiring efforts in reestablishing Verdejo’s prominence in its region of origin he was officially honored by King Juan Carlos.

Angel Rodriguez in his vineyard
The majuelo (plot) of Martínsancho is less than an acre of gnarled vines, preserved in isolation as a museum of prephylloxera viticulture and as a continuing source of undisputed varietal authenticity, treasured by nurseries throughout Europe. In 1976, Angel regrafted 25 acres of his best vineyard, using Martínsancho cuttings. Rodriguez makes one wine: Martinsancho, produced from 100% Verdejo and made in the historic bodega that they’ve occupied since 1780. They still utilize the subterranean bodega which is 3 stories underground, replete with 5,000-liter oak bocoyes in continuous use for centuries.

Underground bodega at Bodegas Angel Rodriguez
At the opposite end of the winemaking spectrum but with every bit as much reverence for the Verdejo grape, is Bodegas Jose Pariente. Oenologist Victoria Pariente (one of only four women winemakers in Spain who also own their bodegas) inherited the passion for winemaking from her father Jose, who produced his own artisan wines. A new state of the art winery is still under construction and without a sign, it looks unoccupied from the highway. But drive around back and there’s a bee hive of activity! Every step of the winemaking process here is analyzed and controlled with the latest technology to preserve freshness and avoid oxidation, which easily happens with the Verdejo grape. The hand picked grapes are brought from the surrounding vineyards directly to a refrigerated storage cooler and then crushed and piped under refrigeration to temperature controlled fermentation tanks. The bodega uses nitrogen in all of the must handling to minimize oxidation. The pebble covered vineyards are from 40 years to 100 years old, situated in the “Golden Mile” of Rueda, the highest part of the plateau, whose Atlantic climate has strong variations of day and night temperatures.

In the vineyard with Victoria Pariente and her assistant
WHITE WINES FROM RUEDA
2008 Martinsancho Verdejo, Rueda ($18.99) The harsh continental climate and extreme altitude, together with the soil’s austere inhospitality to all types of insects and bacteria, allow for the practice of completely organic viticulture. From free-run juice, the new wine is racked into centuries-old subterranean bocoyes prior to clarification and bottling. 2008 was a cool, late harvest producing a full bodied, freshly fruity and minerally complex Verdejo.
2007 Jose Pariente Verdejo, Rueda ($21.99) Ecologically produced from 40 year old vines planted by Jose Pariente, the winemaker’s father. Daily battonage provides a creamy texture, backed up by fresh aromas of citrus and delicate pear flavors. …”The 2007 Varietal Verdejo is a superb expression of this once under-rated grape variety. The fruit was sourced from a 40 year old, 6-hectare estate vineyard. Medium straw-colored, the wine has an alluring fragrance of mineral, lemon-lime, citrus, and floral notes.” 90 points Wine Advocate
2007 Martina Prieto Verdejo, Rueda ($15.99) The daughter of Victoria Pariente makes this wine using extreme methods such as harvesting grapes at night to lock in the fresh aromatics. Martina Prieto bursts with flavors of creamy grapefruit, ripe pineapple, lime, flint, and a hint of cinnamon. Vibrant with acidity, this is the perfect wine to serve with octopus ceviche.
2007 Marques de Irun Verdejo, Rueda ($12.99) Fresh and lively on the palate, with aromas of white grapefruit. Unctuous on the palate, with flavors of citrus, a hint of honeydew melon and palate cleansing minerality. With a persistent, crisp finish, it pairs wonderfully with shellfish.
RED WINES
Gear up for barbeque weather this weekend! These are stellar reds to match with grilled ribs or lamb burgers:
2007 Vale Da Clara, Douro ($13.99) The new vintage of this red table wine is a staff favorite! Complex black fruit flavors are nicely structured by accessible tannins. Smooth and well balanced, this tasty red is perfect for quaffing when you’re sitting around with friends on the deck.
2007 La Planta, Ribera del Duero ($15.99) I had a glass of this at a tapas bar in Valladolid. It was sensational with my tapa of roasted eggplant, onion confit and carmelized cabbage. 100% Tempranillo, it has been barrel aged 6 months. There’s a hint of smoke behind the smooth boysenberry, licorice and black cherry fruit. With great food pairing acidity, it is full bodied, balanced, with a dry and pleasing finish. Recommended value wine under $25.00 by Wine Advocate.
2007 Clos de los Siete, Mendoza ($18.99) “Bright, full ruby-red. Crushed black fruits, mocha, bitter chocolate, licorice and smoked meat on the nose. Sweet, penetrating and firm-edged; … I like this wine’s balance of sweetness and acidity…” “There may be no finer red wine value in Argentina than this superb blend of 48% Malbec, 28% Merlot, 12% Syrah, and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon… This lengthy effort over-delivers and then some.” 89 points Stephen Tanzer, 91 points Jay Miller
Winemaker tasting: Meet Martina Pariente, producer of Martina Prieto Verdejo at Tango Restaurant on Sunday July 12, from 6:00 to 8:00 p.m. A selection of tapas will be paired with three red wines and the Martina Prieto Verdejo. $30.00. For reservations, contact Tango Restaurant 206.583.0382
Sincerely,
Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, Owners
Spanish Table
July 9, 2009
wineries are only meters apart in Haro’s Railroad District where a hundred years ago, they loaded huge barrels of wine on flat cars and sent them off to France which was suffering the scourge phylloxera.)
river from Haro in the tiny town of Briñas, they have a new, functional winery nestled between houses on a side street. The modern winery replaced the old bodega which has a two story underground wine cave, now used for aging home-made Cava. Laboring in quiet obscurity, there are few visitors and no tasting room. However, 4th generation winemaker Ramon de Alaya was charming and hospitable during our 4 hour visit, as we visited the vineyards, the old bodega, tasted barrel samples and the most recent releases. The secret to his nuanced wines lies in his south facing vineyards which are nestled high up against the Sierra Cantabria mountains. His oldest vineyards were planted in 1936; the youngest vineyards are 30-40 years old. The vines, planted to a mix of traditional Rioja grapes, are overseen by Ramon’s grandson, a technical agronomist engineer. Minimal intervention is used in the vineyard, whose late ripening grapes achieve great depth and balance.
We got home last Friday night after visiting fourteen Spanish wineries in twelve days. Twelve long hedonistic days of a no-holds-barred food and wine tasting extravaganza. Exactly my kind of travel. Now home, our cleansing diet of salad and water is already wearing thin…
Congratulations to Classical Wines of Spain who celebrated their
My definition of rewarding: Scouring Madrid’s back alleys under dim street light, clutching a map, and finally stumbling into Casa Botin, the oldest restaurant in Europe. But alas, it’s full of tourists, and we start backing out the door. Then we spot the porcine room: shelves lined with splayed baby pigs in piglet-sized cazuelas. We are definitely eating here!! We order a Faustino Gran Reserva and discover that there is no better match for roast suckling pig than a Rioja. We eat. We drink. And, since that day in 1985, we are forever fans of Gran Reservas from Rioja.
Cheese aficionados, rejoice! This Saturday and Sunday, May 16-17, is the fifth annual Seattle Cheese Festival in the Pike Place Market. While Pike Street explodes with more than 200 cheeses from local and international producers, seminars and demonstrations, down here on Western Avenue, The Spanish Table is throwing a sensational celebration of Iberian quesos and queijos. Our resident Cheese Monger, Jorge, has scored big this year with an extraordinary line up of authentic, hand produced cow, sheep and goat milk cheeses from Spain and Portugal. Stop in, take a break from the crowds and taste our outstanding selection!
Certain memories of Spain linger in our minds years after the details of the trip has faded. One of these enduring images is of mothers in black, the mamacitas, inhabiting the white washed villages we visited during the 1980’s. They were the last of a generation and part of an agrarian culture that stretched back across eons of time. They were mothers who gave birth to their children at home under the watchful eye of a midwife. Mothers who prepared their childrens’ meals from whatever ingredients were available, what we call Cocina Pobre, in The Spanish Table cookbook. Mothers who kept the home fire burning and whose love was rich beyond measure. ¡Feliz Dia de Madre!
Spanish Table cook book appearance at Metropolitan Market
Too often, days fade into memory like the Bainbridge ferry disappearing into fog. But there are also times that are simply unforgettable, such as our trip to Cordoba where we waited in line for hours to see a flamenco concert we’d stumbled upon by accident. It was a sensational show featuring Jose Merce, Jose Menese and Chocolate. The raw emotions I felt that night turned me into an aficionado of cante flamenco.
April 16, 2009