Turkish Travels

When we can get away from the store we typically head to Spain for hedonistic days of food sampling and drinking top-notch wines that we can’t afford at home. While our first love will always be Iberia, our palates are taking us into the far reaches of the Mediterranean these days. Which is why we took a trip to Turkey last week with our California partners, Andy and Tanya. We spent two amazing days in the cave dwellings of Cappadocia and then met friends in Istanbul. We dined like sultans on the vibrant Turkish cuisine. A vegetarian’s dream, every fantastic meal was loaded with salads, roasted vegetables, pulses and grains. Being carnivores, we dined on savory chicken pilaf in pastry, kebabs with sumac served over eggplant, and slow roasted lamb infused with oregano, paprika and yogurt. Now that we’re home, we’ll be recreating and sharing some of these recipes with the ingredients that we stock here at the shop. Stay tuned.
 

TURKISH COOKING
Cortas Pomegranate Molasses ($4.99/10 oz): In Turkey, this was used as an ingredient in salad dressing. Mixed with lemon & olive oil, it was terrific on mixed greens.
Cuisine Perel Pomegranate Balsamic Vinegar ($7.99/6.5 oz): A blend of balsamic, red wine vinegar and pomegranate concentrate, this will give salads an extra snap, or pour it over fresh strawberries and ice cream.
Turkish Cookbooks: The Ottoman Kitchen by Sarah Woodward ($20.00) has general culinary information as well as authentic recipes from Turkey and the Middle East. Great pictures of the countryside and recipes make this a pleasure to read.
TURKEY Mediterranean Cuisine ($16.99) Eleven chefs contributed to this book of traditional Turkish food. Contains step by step photos and easy to follow recipes.

NEW WINES THIS WEEK
2007 Campo Burgo Rioja ($8.99) Clean and bright with soft tannins, Campo Burgo has been aged in stainless steel. With a medium body and structured acidity, notes of cherry and plum, it could even be chilled slightly before serving. Excellent with fideo pasta and shrimp.
2007 Vinas de Olivara, Toro ($7.99) 87 points Wine Advocate Made from 100% Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo), this non-oaked red really over-delivers for the price. Aromatic, with notes of boysenberry, blueberry and mineral, it is full-bodied and gutsy. Subtle tannins are well balanced with acidity and wrap up with a distinctive and elegant finish.
2005 Marques de Campo Nuble Crianza Rioja ($12.99) 88 points Wine Advocate A modern Rioja that hasn’t forgotten its roots, it is made of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Garnacha. Warm and round red fruit flavors spring from the glass backed up by notes of licorice and cedar. A subtle amount of oak and balanced acidity make this Rioja a perfect wine to serve with any pork or lamb dish. This winery is new to the U.S. market and decided to forego advertising to keep their prices low. It is a superb value!
2006 Bodegas Marques de Olivara M.O., Toro ($12.99) Concentrated, bold and spicy, M.O. de Olivara is our go-to wine for brawny and affordable reds. 100% Tempranillo produced from 40-100 year old vines, M.O. is meaty, explosive and earthy with notes of mineral and black fruit. Aged 13 months in French oak, it is a steal at $12.99.
2004 Vaza Crianza Rioja, ($14.99) Vaza’s 18 months in oak give it an edgy smokiness tinged with juicy ripe cherry and black currant flavors. Notes of licorice are front and center on the palate, balanced by great acidity and moderate tannins. This is a tasty Rioja and will appeal to those who like a more fruit-forward style.
COLLECTOR’S CORNER
2005 Descendientes de Jose Palacios Corullon Bierzo ($57.00) 93 points Stephen Tanzer “Deep red. Smoky raspberry and cherry compote aromas are lifted by stony minerality and fresh rose. Deep, musky cherry and dark berry flavors display impressive poise, with firm tannins adding structure without distracting from the fruit. Turns brighter on the long, mineral-dominated finish, staining the palate with vibrant red berry flavors that cling tenaciously.”

 2006 Pingus, Ribera del Duero ($736.00) Quantities limited, available by special order.  95 points Stephen Tanzer “Opaque purple. Powerful, mineral-driven aromas of blackberry, blueberry, creme de cassis, incense and floral oils. Fresh dark berry flavors are youthfully crunchy and strikingly pure, with mounting spiciness and minerality. Silky tannins add support to the broad, palate-staining fruit but quickly fade away, allowing the exotic dark berry flavors to stand out. The mineral element clings impressively on the long, sappy, sweet finish. A superb showing…”

NEW PRODUCTS 
Flor de Sal (“Sea Flower” –$10.99/500 grams) are very thin crystals of sea salt formed at the surface of salt ponds, collected manually with the aid of a special tool. Collected daily, without allowing it to contact the pond’s bottom or sides, it is a product of natural purity, with a delicate flavor and prolonged finish on the palate. Considered the “Rolls Royce” of sea salt.
Sevillana Olives With Lemon: These rich green olives have a tart spicy flavor with lots of garlic and a little red pepper. Watch out for the pits!
Golden Peppadews: This hot sweet little yellow pepper is much like the red peppadew, with a little more meat and a slightly milder taste. Perfect for any place you would put red peppadews or mix them for a beautiful color contrast.
Organic Peruvian Bojita Olives: These organic bojita olives are known for their plump shape, firm meaty texture & tart flavor. They are grown on the high desert plains of Peru.
Manchego marinated in Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Sliced and ready to eat, put it on a bocadillo or serve it as a tapa with a dish of olives and a glass of fino sherry.
New container arrived today from Spain. We’ve now got a great selection of green glass. Ribbed tumblers, cruets, medium sangria glasses and malaga glasses are back in stock. And a new supply of rice has arrived just in time for paella season. Perdiz Bomba and Signo Valencian rice are on the shelf again.

Tilting At Windmills

Overlooking the plains of La Mancha, these ancient windmills are like great white birds peering down from a nest. Strikingly visible for miles, they have guarded the Spanish countryside since the Middle Ages, the chivalrous era of Don Quixote.

Facing middle age myself and feeling more wild-eyed and quixotic every day, I’m increasingly tilting at windmills.  For example, I’d love for all Americans to become healthier and happier by learning the pleasure of cooking.   There are so many fantastic and easy to prepare dishes whose flavor is miles ahead of the fare in the ready-to-eat aisle at the grocery store.   The first step is stock your larder with a few favorite  ingredients, such as a flavorful extra virgen olive oil, piquillo peppers, Morroccan spices and preserved lemons.   Then experiment!  Use the preserved lemon on grilled fish.  Drizzle the olive oil over grilled vegetables and taste how the flavors pop.  Serve the piquillo peppers on top of grilled pork chops.   Check out the recipe below that I threw together last week which turned out astonishingly wonderful!

Roast Cornish Game Hens with Petite Golden Lentils Serves 4

2 Cornish Game Hens

1 lemon

1 orange

Harrisa

1 white onion

3 sprigs fresh thyme

2 leaves fresh sage, chopped

2 cups Petite Golden Lentils

3-4 cups Chicken stock (optional)

Rinse and dry the game hens. Stuff with slices of lemon and orange, and brush generously with harissa. Bake at 350 degrees for about an hour, until juices run clear.

While the hens are cooking, roughly chop the onion. Simmer it over low heat in olive oil with the thyme and sage, until it softens and carmelizes.

Check the lentils for stones and rinse. Put them in a stock pot and cover with water or chicken stock. The liquid should be 2 inches above the level of the lentils. Simmer for 12-15 minutes until tender.

When the hens are done, stir the lentils into the onions and serve as a side dish.

Last week we wrote about the February 25, 2009 edition of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate which featured “Spain’s Top 100 Wine Values.” Here are some other great values that we have in stock.

2007 Bodegas Valtostao Legon Roble, Ribera del Duero ($13.99) “The 2007 Legon Roble is 100% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) aged for six months in French, American, and Hungarian oak. It offers up an enticing bouquet of cedar, spice box, earth notes, black cherry, and blackberry. This is followed by a smooth-textured, ripe, juicy wine with loads of fruit, an easy-going personality, and a seamless finish. It is a fine introduction to Tempranillo and the DO of Ribera del Duero. Enjoy it over the next four years.” 90 points Wine Advocate

2006 Los Cantos de Torremilanos, Ribera del Duero ($21.99) “The 2006 Los Cantos de Torremilanos is 100% Tempranillo aged for 13 months in one-third new French oak. Purple-colored, its nose reveals wood smoke, lavender, pencil lead, black cherry, and blackberry. Firm and structured on the palate with an elegant personality, this lengthy effort will evolve for another 2-3 years and drink well through 2021.” 90 points Wine Advocate

2005 Cellars Sant Rafel Solpost, Montsant ($23.99) “The 2005 Solpost is a blend of 50% Garnacha, 35% Carinena, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 12 months in French and American oak. Dark ruby-colored, it has an enticing perfume of mineral, earth notes, cassis, and black cherry. Smooth-textured, on the palate it has outstanding depth and concentration, savory red and black fruit flavors, and a long, fruit-filled finish. It will evolve for 2-3 years and offer prime drinking from 2011 to 2020.” 91 points Wine Advocate

OTHER GREAT VALUES:

2006 Protocolo, Vina de la Tierra de Castilla ($6.99) Protocolo is a perennial Spanish Table customer favorite and the 2006 vintage is a fantastic bargain! With warm aromas of berry, this 100% Tempranillo has a depth of vibrant black cherry flavors. Low tannins are balanced by acidity and a finish of licorice notes. Perfect for a party or on a weeknight when you don’t want to break the bank.

2007 Gouguenheim Malbec, Mendoza Regularly $9.99, special price $7.99 while supplies last. We took advantage of the importer’s pre-arrival sale and ordered 5 cases of this popular Malbec. When these sell out, the price goes up. The full bodied 2007 Malbec has aromas of violet, with lush flavors of plum, black cherry, black currant and chocolate. Meaty, with ample but not overpowering tannins, it is well balanced with acidity and has a knock-out toasty finish.

WINE COLLECTOR’S CORNER

2006 Flor de Pingus, Ribera del Duero ($79.00) Limited quantities, scheduled to arrive Friday March 13! Cutting-edge winemaker Peter Sisseck transcended traditional Spanish winemaking with the release of his 1995 Pingus. Flor de Pingus is his second wine and sells for $600.00 less. Produced from extremely low-yielding vineyards and biodynamic since 2005, the 2006 Flor de Pingus is a blockbuster. “Strong floral and mineral scents complicate blackberry and cherry on the nose. Vibrant red berry and cherry flavors are given support by dusty tannins and become sweeter with air. Very fresh and precise, with excellent mineral snap and thrust. I like this wine’s delicate touch, and the finish is clean and very long. Given the tariff for its big brother, this is almost a bargain.” 93 points Stephen Tanzer

2005 Dulce Christina, Alicante ($21.99)“(A 50/50 blend of merlot and tempranillo.) Bright red. Spicy, lively bouquet of strawberry and raspberry preserves and minerals. Gently sweet, with sappy red berry flavors and good bracing acidity. Very fresh for a late-harvest wine, without the cloying, syrupy qualities of most. Finishes with energetic lift and mineral bite. This is delicious. 92 points Stephen Tanzer

CHEESE CORNER La Cueva Llonin: This extraordinary, limited production, cave aged cheese defies expectations. Unavailable from any domestic vendors, we special ordered it from Spain and it finally arrived today! The only soft-ripened cows’ milk cheese from Spain that I have heard of, it is creamy, complex & mushroomy. Little of this shows up outside of Asturias, Spain. La Cueva Llonin comes in 12.5 oz squares of gooey yumminess and is the perfect accompaniment on any Spanish cheese platter.
And from Egypt, we now have Buffalo Milk Feta cheese.

Come and see me at the cheese counter! George
NOW BACK IN STOCK: DIGESTIVES!

News from the Spanish Table

I keep thinking about that summer afternoon in Ciutadella, Menorca.  We ate a fantastic seafood paella and paired it with a delicious crisp rose.  On the island of Menorca, paella is served with mayonnaise which was invented in Mahon, Menorca.  Here’s to good times and delicious memories!!

If you love paella, treat yourself to Taberna del Alabardero’s paella fest from March 16-22. Master paella chef David Montero is flying in from Marbella to prepare 12 different paellas. For details, contact Taberna del Alabardero Phone: 206.448.8884 www.alabardero.com/seattle

We met Steve Metzler and Almudena de Llaguno of Classical Wines in 1995 when we opened The Spanish Table. One of the first importers to recognize the enormous potential of Spanish wine, Steve and Almudena have been pivotal in introducing quality Spanish wines to American palates. Classical seeks out and nurtures family producers whose wines are made from local grape varieties and are pure expressions of the terroir. I was delighted to have lunch at Taberna del Alabardero recently to meet winemaker Isidro Fernandez Bello of Casar de Burbia, Classical Wine’s newest producer from the Bierzo region.

2006 Casar de Burbia Mencia, Bierzo ($26.99) In 1989, the Fernandez Bello family began acquiring and rehabilitating dozens of small parcels in Bierzo. They have created a contiguous property, traversed by the Camino de Santiago at altitudes up to 2300 feet. The vineyards’ perfect exposure and excellent drainage are enhanced by the region’s most mineral soils. Casar de Burbia is an outstanding expression of Mencia’s thick dark fruit. Aged in oak for 6 months, it is balanced, structured and elegant with a fresh minerality. 90 points International Wine Cellar

2006 Casar de Burbia Tebaida, Bierzo ($55.00) Grapes for Tebaida are selected bunches from old stock between 60 and 102 years old, grown at higher elevations of the estate. Concentrated, with beautiful clean aromas and flavors of black fruit, Tebaida is a pure expression of the terroir. Structured and clean, balanced with acidity and with notes of black pepper and mineral, the persistent finish is rich with sweet tannins. 92 points International Wine Cellar

To learn more about wines from Bierzo, here’s a link to a recent San Francisco Chronicle article: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2009/03/01/FDAF161O7H.DTL

The February 25, 2009 edition of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate features “Spain’s Top 100 Wine Values.” What could be more timely than a list of great wines for less than $25.00?

2006 Alto Moncayo Veraton, Campo de Borja ($23.99) is the top pick at 93 points. Made of 100% garnacha, Veraton is very spicy on the nose with “earth notes, wild black cherry and black raspberry. Dense, layered and full flavored on the palate, this hedonistic effort is balanced enough to evolve for several years…”

Parker’s second choice is 2007 Casal Novo Godello, Valdeorras ($24.99) Elegant and intense, it is full bodied and savory. Casal Novo is unoaked, fresh and clean with notes of dried pear, chalk and crushed rock. Spectacular with grilled shellfish, “it is loaded with succulent white fruits, has vibrant acidity and a lengthy, pure finish.” 92 points

More favorite Robert Parker Top 100 Spanish Wine Values in stock:

2006 Agusti Torello Mata Rosat Cava Brut Reserva, Penedes ($24.99) 92 points

2007 Lagar do Castelo Albarino, Rias Baixas ($14.99) 91 points

2004 Casa de Illana 3De5 (Ribera del Jucar) $14.99 90 points

OTHER VALUE WINES

2004 Vega Ibor, Tierra de Castilla ($8.99) With intense aromas of black currants and notes of licorice on the nose, Vega Ibor has an earthy mineral character. Aged 6 months in oak, and made of 100% Tempranillo, it has rich black cherry and boysenberry flavors. Well balanced with acidity, the presence of young wood combines seamlessly with the ripe fruit. Vega Ibor has a round, full body, sweet tannins, and a persistent aftertaste. Now on sale!

Our highly recommended 2006 Andeluna Malbec Winemaker’s Selection, Mendoza ($9.99) was the hands-down favorite at a wine tasting last weekend. Its balance of ripe fruit and acidity paired wonderfully with cassoulet.

Young Mahon: “What a Gouda wished it could be” (Steven Jenkins). Creamy and buttery with a lingering tangy finish. This semi-soft cow’s milk cheese from Menorca is perfect for melting–think grilled cheese bocadillos. A phenomenal cheese for a fabulous price. $15.99/lb. $3.99/quarter lb.

MitiBlue: A new blue made with sheep’s milk and Roquefort Penicillium. This soft velvety textured cheese reminds me of a cross between Buttermilk blue and French Roquefort. Definitely a new staff favorite! $23.99/lb. $5.99/quarter lb.

Cured Duck Salami: Rich and delicious, with perfectly balanced flavors and a juicy texture. Blended with fresh garlic, sea salt, and spices, the duck meat is then cured and hand tied. Slice some up and introduce a new flavor into your tapas!!

Duck Breast Cured & Dried: This duck breast is buttery, sweet, salty, and delicate. Thinly sliced and ready to eat, it is seasoned with sea salt, mixed peppercorns, brown sugar, and fresh garlic. Enjoy it the same way as Jamón Serrano. Try it in salads, sandwiches or on pizza.

Jose Andres made in Spain DVD, seasons 1 and 2: Spanish chef Jose Andres’ cooking show was originally shown on PBS as a series. Each season has 14 individual shows, focused on a region of Spain and its specialty foods. Travel with Jose to meet producers and then back to his demonstration kitchen to prepare recipes. $31.49 each season, 2 DVDs

Pintxos by Gerald Hirigoyen ($24.95), is the Basque chef’s long awaited tapas cookbook. Author of The Basque Kitchen, and owner of Piperade Restaurant in San Francisco, Hirigoyen introduced Piment d’Esplette to American cooks. In Pintxos, he adapts 75 authentic recipes for the home kitchen.

Blanched marcona almonds are back in stock!