Visit to Vega Sicilia

Visit to Vega Sicilia

June 25, 2009

 

We got home last Friday night after visiting fourteen Spanish wineries in twelve days. Twelve long hedonistic days of a no-holds-barred food and wine tasting extravaganza. Exactly my kind of travel. Now home, our cleansing diet of salad and water is already wearing thin…

Stay tuned for the next few weeks, because there’s a ton of great news from our trip. We visited Bodegas Jose Pariente and Martinsancho in Rueda; Emilio Moro, Bodegas Mauro, Bodegas Conde and Protos in Ribera del Duero. We spent the last 4 days in Rioja visiting Bodegas Muga, La Rioja Alta, R. Lopez de Heredia, Bodegas Ramon Ayala e Hijos, Remelluri, Bodegas Contino and Vinedos Sierra Cantabria.

I will never forget driving into the legendary estate of Bodegas Vega Sicilia. Established in 1864 when 18000 vine shoots from Bordeaux were planted here, they have been producing one of the world’s best and most mythical wines since 1915. No expense is spared in the pursuit of perfection, from the immaculate fermentation rooms, new French oak barrels which are replaced every year, down to the best available corks which are laboratory tested before using. Its 15000 kilo French oak fermentation vats are replaced every 5 years by a crew which is brought from Bordeaux. There is no resale market for the used vats so they are made into wooden boxes for the wines. The manicured grounds buzz with prosperity and quiet confidence.

Vega’s vineyard contains 19 different soils, four grape varieties and plots with varied microclimates. They continue to innovate. A new facility soon to open will house 64 fermentation vats, allowing micro vinification with each vat mirroring the vineyard plot.

 

The wines of Vega Sicilia

Three wines are made on Vega Sicilia’s estate in Ribera del Duero. Unico, only produced in great years, is typically made from 85% Tempranillo and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Unico is aged for 7 years in a combination of large oak vats and small French barrels. It can be cellared for up to 50 years. Valbuena is made each year from Tempranillo, Malbec and Merlot and can be cellared for 25 years. Reserva Especial NV is a blend of three vintages, produced in very limited quantities.

2001 Vega Sicilia Tinto Valbuena ($176.00) Unico was not made in 2001, so the best Tempranillo grapes were put into Valbuena. “Wonderfully perfumed, sharply delineated aromas of fresh red berries, cherry, rhubarb, roasted coffee and vanillin oak. Supple, lush and sweet, with medium to full body, a complex array of red and dark fruit flavours, exotic spice accents and fine-grained but firm, youthful tannins.” 92 points Stephen Tanzer, 93 points Robert Parker

1996 Vega Sicilia Unico ($366.00) Vega Sicilia is characterized by unbelievable finesse, silky tannins, black fruit, structure and balance. “Complex, heady bouquet of kirsch, candied plum, cured tobacco, licorice, dried rose and cedar. Pungent herbal notes build with aeration and repeat on the palate, adding complexity to the deep, ripe cherry and dark berry liqueur flavors. Remarkably elegant wine with precise cherry/berry flavors and a slow-mounting mocha quality on the long, sappy finish. There’s a very impressive interplay of fruit and tannins here.” 94 points Stephen Tanzer, 93 points Wine Spectator

1998 Vega Sicilia Unico ($400.00) ” Exotic aromas of red and dark fruits, iron, dried flowers, cured meat and tobacco are strongly reminiscent of a top vintage of Chateau Haut-Brion. Luscious cherry and cassis flavors display a superb balance of depth and structure, offering noteworthy power but a weightless quality that is simply uncanny. Candied flowers, smoky minerals and vanilla bean add complexity and extend through an endless finish. I’d love to sneak this into a tasting of 1998 Saint-Emilion and Graves wines in ten years or so.” 96 points Stephen Tanzer, 98 points Robert Parker

2003 Pintia, Toro ($50.00) Made from 100% Tinto de Toro, this is from Vega Sicilia’s estate in Toro. The first vintage was 2001. ” The 2003 Pintia (100% Tinta de Toro aka Tempranillo) is a powerful, opaque purple effort that spent 12 months in new French oak. The expressive nose offers toast, vanilla, charcoal, and blue and black fruits which jump from the glass. There is a boatload of tannin but more than enough fruit for balance. Currently the 2003 is tight, firm, and a bit austere but a few years of bottle age should bring things into harmony.” 92 points Wine Advocate

 

NEW PRODUCTS

Pulque La Lucha- Frieda Kahlo’s drink of choice!

Framani brand Salametto Piccante chorizo: Brick-red in color and seasoned with pimenton de la Vera. Piquant and slightly smoky. About 12 inches long, 3/4 pound. Slice in 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick pieces.

Zoe Meats Chorizo, Locally Made, No Nitrates: We sold out of our first order in 4 days and quickly reordered. A favorite of local chefs, Spanish Table customers and staff! Rich red texture, smoky, earthy, sweet and tangy. Perfect for tapas, paella and Bocadillos.

Our Favorite Queso Reggianito is finally back in stock! $9.99/lb

Garrotxa Bauma is a special young Artisanal Garrotxa from Catalonia. This particular Garrotxa is exceptional with nuances of nuts and flowers and hints of thyme and rosemary. The texture is smooth and velvety with a long grassy finish.

Vallee d’ Aspe is a wonderfully earthy raw milk sheep and cow’s milk cheese from the Pyrenees. This mature Basque region artisanal cheese has well balanced hay tones with a vibrant tanginess.

Bottarga is the salted and dried roe of gray mullet and tastes of iodine and light fermentation. It is a flavor agent that plays off other ingredients, great on summer salads, pastas, or beans. “Try it sprinkled over fresh oysters.” Eric Stone

On sale

Matiz Fig cake ($7.99). A perfect complement with sheep milks cheese.

Veigadarte, now $22.99/lb. The soft ripened tangy goat cheese from Leon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  Fermentation vats at Bodegas Alion

2002 Alion, Ribera del Duero ($48.00 special price!) One wine is produced at Vega’s separate estate, Bodegas Alion. 1991 was the first vintage of this Bordeaux-style modern wine made from 100% Tempranillo. Half of the grapes come from the Vega Sicilia estate; the other half from Alion vineyards. “While 2002 was a lesser vintage, you would never know it from tasting the 2002 Alion, Saturated purple in color, it offers up an exotic nose of coconut, espresso, herbs, black currants and cherries. Rich and complex on the palate with lots of glycerine and layers of black fruit flavours, it has a pure, long finish that goes on and on.” 94 points Wine Advocate

2004 Alion, Ribera del Duero ($82.00) “The 2004 Alion is inky purple-colored with an alluring perfume of toasty oak, lavender, violets, mineral, blackberry, and blueberry compote. This is followed by a full-bodied, rich, opulent, wine with incipient complexity, and notes of licorice, mocha, and espresso emerging on the palate. The lengthy finish is pure and persistent. Give it 3-5 years in the cellar and drink it through 2025.” 96 points Wine Advocate

 

Last call for Padron Pepper plants! We’re waiting for the crop in Oregon to get ripe so that we can offer these tasty peppers. In the meantime, we’re harvesting padron peppers from our own plants, thanks to the warm June weather. We’ve still got a few plants left. $4.99 each.

Stop in soon and we’ll give you some travel tips for Ribera del Duero and Rioja.

Sincerely,

 

Sharon Baden & Steve Winston, Owners

Spanish Table

Celebration Season

 

 

Celebration Season

 

June 5, 2009

Congratulations to Classical Wines of Spain who celebrated their 25th anniversary this week. One of the pioneer importers of quality Spanish wines, their portfolio is a personal roadmap of what’s happened in Spanish winemaking over the last 25 years. A full day of seminars with winemakers and a tasting showed just how much they continue to push boundaries. Their long relationships with top winemakers such as Alejandro Fernandez of Pesquera continue, while they source exciting new producers that are delivering terrunyo-driven, authentic wines. Here’s to your future success!

June is the month of graduation celebrations, the beginning of summer wedding season and long days meant for picnics in the park. All of these occasions cry out for good food and wine which we’re here to provide! The secret is to keep it simple, like last night’s simple lentil salad tossed with sherry vinegar, olive oil and fresh arugula. With a chilled glass of 2008 Montecastrillo rose, it was the perfect picnic meal.

On a personal celebratory note, we’ll be toasting my birthday in Spain next week. Our itinerary takes us through the wine regions of Rueda, Ribera del Duero and Rioja with a beach weekend in San Sebastian. We’ll try to send updates from the road….

 

Steven’s Black Cod with Piquillos and PX is a quick weeknight dinner.  (Serves 3)
1 ½ lb black cod
4 piquillo peppers, sliced into strips
½ sweet onion, sliced
3 tbsp olive oil (I used Majoub Tunisian)
 
For the marinade:
1/3 cup Pedro Ximenez Sherry (Don PX 2004)
1/3 cup sherry vinegar (I used Majuelo)
1 tbsp grapefruit marmalade (Majoub Tunisian)
 
Put the cod on 2 layers of aluminum foil, cover with peppers and onions, and drizzle with olive oil.  Whisk together the marinade in a small bowl, adjusting the balance if necessary: it should be slightly more sweet than tangy.  Drizzle over the cod, reserving half.  If using a barbeque, adjust the grill to highest position, farther away from the coals.  Wrap up the cod, and place on the grill, turning after 5 minutes.  After 5 minutes on each side, open the foil, and drizzle with the remaining marinade. Close the lid and cook for an additional 5 minutes or until the cod is just falling apart. Serve with 2007 Lagar do Castelo albarino.  

Some favorite wines from Classical Wines of Spain:
2008 Martinsancho, Rueda ($16.99) Grapefruit meets yellow and green apple in this crisp white.   The vibrant fruit flavors are complimented by vibrant acidity and a long, smooth finish.
2007 Vina Reboreda, Ribeiro ($11.99)  With a steely backbone, Vina Reboreda offers up flavors of Granny Smith apple and watermelon.   Lean and savory, it is stupendous with steamed clams or mussels.
 2006 Altico “A”, Jumilla ($18.99) From Producer Bodegas Carchelo, Altico is a full bodied 100% Syrah.  “Primary blackberry and blueberry aromas are youthfully unevolved, opening slowly to display subtle graphite and baking spice qualities. Midweight black and blue fruit flavors are strikingly pure, with fine-grained tannins lending support. The sweet fruit lingers impressively on the long, sappy finish, which becomes spicier with air. This is delicious.”   90 points Stephen Tanzer
2005 Montecastro, Ribera del Duero ($47.00)  Powerful and structured, with velvety layers of black fruit, mineral, structured tannins, all balanced with acidity and an amazing persistent finish.   “This rich, expressive red delivers ripe, almost sweet, black currant and blackberry fruit. It has muscular tannins, but there’s enough acidity for balance, as well as a vibrant floral and spice finish.”  93 points Wine Spectator

NEW VINTAGE OF MUGA IS HERE:

It’s an exciting day when the new vintage of Muga Rioja rolls in the door!   Voted the most popular wine from Rioja, it’s definitely a customer favorite.  Even better, lower costs and a better exchange rate have made Muga less expensive this year.
2008 Muga Rioja Blanco Barrel Fermented ($14.99)  Made of 90% viura and 10% malvasia, Muga’s double grape checking, both on selection belt and on tasting the musts, means that 50% of the harvest is excluded. Slow fermentation in new French oak and 3 months on fine lees are the secrets of this careful production process. Aromas of citrus fruit and apple stand out against a background of aromatic herbs such as lavender, thyme and even fennel. There are also aromas derived from its cask fermentation, such as coconut and vanilla. In the mouth, intensity and persistence, while at the same time it remains fresh and lively.
2008 Muga Rioja Rosado ($11.99) Made of 60% Garnacha, 30% Viura and 10% Tempranillo, this is one of our all time favorite rosados.   Salmon colored, light bodied, dry and fresh with flavors of ripe red berry, it is backed by crisp acidity and a honeyed finish.  Great with any seafood, paella, or pork dish.
 2005 Muga Reserva Rioja ($25.99) 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo and Graciano, the reserva has been aged six months in traditional Rioja vats, 24 months in small oak barrels and 12 months in bottle.  Concentrated black fruit and red berry flavors have nuances of coffee.  With notes of cedar and charred oak, it is balanced on the palate with a delicious and persistent finish.  Bodegas Muga feels that 2001 and 2005 are their best vintages, as they approach the style of a Bordeaux Pomeral while reflecting the unique terrunyo of the vineyard.2001 Prado Enea Gran Reserva ($57.00) From the stellar 2001 vintage, produced from 50 year old vines, the 2001 Prado Enea is 80% Tempranillo and 20% Mazuelo, Graciano and Garnacha.  On the nose, aromas of spice and chocolate, wrapped in fruit liqueur.   Balanced and elegant, it is smooth with a long and honest finish.   This is one of the best Prado Eneas produced in recent vintages.

New Foods

Ferrer brand Gazpacho: Arrived today! We now have the familiar red, and the lesser known but no less delicious, white. White gazpacho is made from garlic and almonds.

Fresh (unpasteurized) Luques Olives: These French green olives are meaty and sweet, not soft, salty, or mushy like some olives can be. The green flesh is firm and bright, fruity and crisp.

Dried Black Mission Figs: Soft, ripe and fleshy figs from California.

Dried Cherry: Add a new flavor to your summer salads or try them with broiled pork chops. Plump the cherries with warm bourbon and vermouth and dress the chops. Make a nice sauce by reducing your cherry flavored booze and swirling in some butter.

Three New Fig Spreads: Mittica fig spread with Lemon Flower Honey from Valencia. Mt. Vikos Hazel Nut Fig Spread from Greece. Last but not least, I can’t resist Fig and Cocoa spread. Made with figs, pure cane sugar and cocoa. Warm it and pour over ice cream.

Mittica Homemade Membrillo: Artisanally produced, my favorite way to serve membrillo is by sandwiching it between two triangles of the 1 year raw milk manchego cheese and warming it in the oven for a minute.

Mittica Chestnut Honey in Ceramic Crock: This raw chestnut honey is from the mountains of Asturias and is beautifully packaged in a clay crock. Dark in color with intense aromas and flavor. Try pouring this over a gooey piece of Queso Leonora goat cheese.

Padron Pepper Plants: Our last 14 plants are ready to go in the ground. Plant them now and harvest in July! $4.99 each, 16 plants available.

Planning a party or wedding?  Our wine department has something to fit every event, from budget to collector wines.  We offer a 10% discount on a case of 12 wines.  For easy tapas ingredients, pick up a selection of cured meats and cheeses, or for more involved recipes, we stock hard to find ingredients like harissa and preserved lemons.  Gifts:  For someone setting up a new household, this is the place to get them something useful yet “special” such as a beautiful hand-decorated ceramic bowl and an olivewood salad-serving set. For the cook, a set of cazuelas and a really fabulous cookbook. And for anyone, a big glass pitcher.   Everyone can use a pitcher. I’m a fan of our fruit-embossed Marbella pitcher – perfect for sangria, lemonade, whatever. And it’s made of recycled bottle glass, yet another plus!

Spain Association Paella Contest June 21.   Sponsored by Taberna del Alabardero, the contest is open to anyone who wishes to cook, or just watch and eat.   Prizes awarded for the top three paellas.   For more information, visit http://www.spainassociation.org/

Have a great week and please stop in soon and see us at the shop!   Sincerely,   Sharon Baden & Steve Winston, Owners Spanish Table