The Wines of Jorge Ordoñez

Spanish Table Seattle Newsletter

September 4, 2009

We had the good fortune this week to re-taste some of the excellent current releases of esteemed wine importer Jorge Ordoñez, hosted by National Sales Manager Sara Floyd, M.S. And best of all, these wines were poured at two of our favorite Spanish restaurants with memorable foods to match. It was a compelling demonstration of how a well chosen wine enhances food. On Wednesday evening at Taberna del Alabardero (http://www.alabardero.com/seattle/index.html), the meaty Sauteed Pompano with Almonds and Ham, Navarra style, was fantastic with medium bodied and silky 2002 Sierra Cantabria Reserva Rioja ($19.99). Apple tart dessert with cabrales ice cream was divine paired with elegant stone-fruit and citrus flavored Victoria Moscatel dessert wine from Malaga ($29.99).

Thursday at noon found us at Olivar (http://www.olivarrestaurant.com/olivar.html) on Capital Hill. Over three hours, seventeen wines paired with scrumptious tapas served family-style made for a darned good way to spend a rainy afternoon. Grilled scallops with fried shallots and corn salad paired fantastically with minerally and delicate 2008 La Cana Albariño ($15.99). 2008 Botani dry Moscatel from Sierras de Malaga ($19.99)was a perfect match to matchstick slices of manchego and red apple, tossed together with citrus.

We always leave these restaurants with savory memories and the satisfaction of a great dining experience. If you can’t afford a trip to Spain, spend an evening at one of these restaurants and have a taste of Iberia right here at home!

WE WILL BE OPEN ON MONDAY 9/7 (LABOR DAY) FROM 11 AM TO 5 PM.

NEW WHITE WINES

2008 Botani Moscatel Seco, Sierras de Malaga ($19.99) “The 2008 Botani is 100% Moscatel de Alejandria fermented 70% in stainless steel and 30% in French oak. Medium straw-colored, it has an alluring perfume of spring flowers, honey, spice box, and tropical fruits. Smooth-textured, ripe, dry, and mouth-filling, this expressive effort is an excellent match for sushi and Thai food.” 90 points Wine Advocate

2008 Peza do Rei Blanco, Ribera Sacra ($19.99) The region of Ribera Sacra was spotlighted in the July 15, 2009 New York Times and Peza do Rei was singled out as “delicate and distinctive”. Available by special order only, we brought in a case after tasting it. A blend of 70% Godello, 20% Treixadura and 10% Albarino, grown on 8 acres of vertiginous south-facing slate terraces, Peza do Rei is unoaked and intensely aromatic. Lemon peel blends with a touch of tropical fruit in this savory and intensely mineral white. The finish seems never ending. Only 4000 bottles produced. 90 points Stephen Tanzer

2008 Shaya, Rueda ($14.99) Naia was a customer favorite and it was a sad day when we learned that it would no longer be available. Importer Jorge Ordonez has replaced Naia with Shaya, a new project with the Gil family of Jumilla. Produced from old vines, the sandy soils make it possible that many of the vines are over 100 years old and ungrafted. Grassy aromas with complex grapefruit notes, this balanced white is racy with a persistent finish. And the same price as Naia!

NEW FOODS

ZOE MEATS BACON Those of you that have tasted the Zoe Meats Chorizo will be big fans of Zoe’s bacon. Dry cured and apple wood smoked, these thick meaty slices of bacon do not shrink when cooked like bacons curied in brine. Great for BLT’s!

QUICOS Giant Crunch Spanish Salted Corn Nuts. $7.99/lb

PITTED KALAMATA OLIVES

These kalamatas are fleshier and less salty than our previous batch. They are in a red wine brine. Great for salads, omelets and pasta dishes. $8.99/lb.

CASTELLANO CHEESE

This cheese is made throughout the region of Castillo y Leon from milk coming from Churra and Castellana breeds. It is slightly granular with a compact texture, buttery with rich aromas. It is a table cheese that can be enjoyed alone or accompanied by quince, which accentuates its characteristic flavor. $15.99/lb.

GREAT WINES ON SALE

2004 Emilio Moro, Ribera del Duero ($24.99) Price reduced $5.00! “The reasonably priced 2004 Emilio Moro is a terrific Ribera del Duero aged in equal parts French and American oak prior to bottling. Its dense ruby/purple color is followed by a projected nose of blackberries, currants, cherries, smoky oak, and crushed rocks. Terrific texture, super purity, an opulent, full-bodied palate, and a long, heady finish suggest it will keep for 7-8 years.” 92 points Robert Parker

2001 Balbas Reserva, Ribera del Duero $32.00, was $38.00 Close out! Made of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, Balbas is concentrated and complex. Sadly, our distributor will no longer be carrying it, so we bought all of the remaining 2001 Reserva, which is drinking beautifully right now. “This spicy red shows an alluring mix of ripe fruit, with more mature flavors of tobacco, leather and cedar. The tannins are well-integrated and softening, while the acidity is still fresh and crisp. Elegant and long. Drink now through 2015.” 93 points Wine Spectator

2005 Numanthia, Toro ($49.00) Price reduced $11.00! Made from 70 to 100 year old vines, aged in oak barrels for 18 months, this wine explodes on the palate with flavors of ripe blackberry, vanilla and herbal notes. “A deep, youthfully brooding bouquet offers dark cherry, blackcurrant, incense and suave oak spices. Spicy cherry and dark berry flavors show an exotic anise quality and slow-building sweetness. This gently tannic, chewy, extremely persistent wine finishes with echoes of oak spice and floral pastille, not to mention excellent vivacity.” 93 points Stephen Tanzer, 92 points Wine Advocate

2001 Finca Valpiedra Reserva Rioja ($18.99) Close out price – was $21.99! Conde de Valdemar’s single estate Rioja, Finca Valpiedra is a spectacular 80 hectare plot characterized by pebbles and limestone. The grapes are hand picked, manually sorted and aged in new French oak for over 12 months. We’ve always loved this Rioja and when the distributor had to close it out, we bought all of their stock. Let this breathe for 20 minutes to release its concentrated black cherry flavors. Earthy with balsalmic notes, Valpiedra has silky tannins and a persistent finish. Wonderful with lamb chops or paella!

NEW SHIPMENT

Clay Portuguese ceramics. Olive serving dishes in assorted styles and colors: brown, white and gray. They make great gifts!

Have a safe and happy Labor Day weekend!

Sincerely,

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, Owners

The Spanish Table, 1426 Western Avenue, Seattle WA 98101 phone# 206.682.2827
Paris Grocery, 1418 Western Avenue, Seattle WA 98101 phone# 206.682.0679

Paris Grocery

Spanish Table Seattle Newsletter                                    Paris Grocery to open 9/25!

The Spanish Table’s newest venture, Paris Grocery, is opening tomorrow (Friday September 25th) at 1418 Western Avenue! A specialty wine and cheese shop with a French mood, Paris Grocery features French-style pâtés and charcuterie, over 40 authentic French cheeses,cheese fresh baguettes from Seattle’s Macrina Bakery and hand-selected wines for less than $30.00 per bottle from all regions of France. Paris Grocery also carries French mineral waters, French and Belgian beers and shelf groceries. And it’s conveniently located just 50 yards south of the Spanish Table on Western Avenue, making it easy to shop at both locations on the same trip!

Why France and why now? If we were prescient, we’d have known that the movie Julie and Julia would spawn enormous interest in French cooking . But Paris Grocery was really hatched during the economic bust last spring. Vacant storefronts were popping up around us like mushrooms after a fall rain. We thought it would be great to have another food shop on Western Avenue and, feeling optimistic one day, decided to open it ourselves.

Our love affair with Spain will never end, but we’ve always had a soft spot for France. We honeymooned in Paris and were absolutely captivated by the City of Light. We’ve returned to Paris many times and never tire of walking the streets until we drop, salivating at cheese shops, picnicking with families in the park and soaking up the history resonating from Middle-Ages architecture. Fortunately, whenever one is about to drop from exhaustion in Paris, there’s usually a wine bar handy with a great cheese plate. Our aim is to bring some of that experience to Seattle. Bon Appétit!

Paris Grocery hours:

Tuesday through Saturday 10 AM to 6 PM, Sunday 11AM to 5PM. Opening Friday September 25th!

To find Paris Grocery, look for the terracotta awnings at 1418 Western Avenue.

Back in stock at Spanish Table:

We’ve been busy stocking Paris Grocery but haven’t forgotten about The Spanish Table’s shelves. We received 3 shipments this week of products that have been out of stock for some time:

Horchata de Valencia

Basque Guindilla Peppers

Turron: Delaviuda and El Almendro brands: Assortments, Duro, Blando, Torta Imperial, Marzipan

Chocolate covered figs

Hearts of Palm

Rafael Salgado Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Rafael Salgado Smoked Extra Virgin Olive Oil

FLAMENCO PERFORMANCES

Arte Flamenco, Camino de Luz October 3, 8pm

Rendezvous Jewelbox Theater , 2322 2nd Ave. For more information, contact veronken@msn.com

Carmona Flamenco Saturday September 26th Cafe Solstice For more information, contact www.fanw.org

Ines and Juan Bacan and Arte y Pureza From Spain!

October 11-12, 2009 Sleeping Lady Mountain Retreat, Leavenworth Call 1-800-574-2123 for performance or overnight reservations.

One of the most revered artists of Spain’s Gypsy Flamenco community, INES BACAN, joined by her brother JUAN BACAN, will be making their U.S. premier with the stellar flamenco dance ensemble ARTE y PUREZA led by guitarist ETHAN MARGOLIS.

Arte y Pureza’s group (unfortunately without Ines Bacan) will be performing at Taberna del Alabardero, Seattle on October 10, 2009. For information and reservations: 206-448-8884.

Please stop in and check out our new store and be sure to tell all of your Francophile friends!

Sincerely,

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, Owners

The Spanish Table, 1426 Western Avenue, Seattle WA 98101 phone# 206.682.2827

Paris Grocery, 1418 Western Avenue, Seattle WA 98101 phone# 206.682.0679

Spanish Table Seattle Newsletter November 6, 2009

A Visit to Blandy’s Wine Lodge, Madeira

Madeira lies in the Atlantic Ocean 378 miles west of Morocco. A volcanic island, its sub tropical climate and abundant rainfall seem an unlikely place for wine production. But its shelves of terraced land rise up the flanks of 6105 foot Mt. Pico, which on the sunny side of the island provides a climate ideally suited to viticulture.

The urban port city of Funchal is the heart of wine production and retains its 18th century Portuguese charm despite a modern profusion of traffic encouraged by European Union road projects. But when we drove a few minutes away from Funchal on our visit last month, we found peaceful country lanes bordered by New Guinea Impatiens, Hydrangeas, Trumpet Flower and Eucalyptus forests, much the same as it was 200 years ago. Madeira is a verdant garden, nourished by its volcanic soils and ample precipitation.

Uninhabited until 1427, Madeira was discovered and settled by the Portuguese who soon began making wine. By the mid 16th Century it was a refueling stop for ships crossing the Atlantic and its wines were brought on board to prevent scurvy. The U.S. quickly became one of Madeira wine’s principal markets along with England and Brazil. It was a favorite drink of Thomas Jefferson who toasted the signing of the Declaration of Independence with a glass of Malmsey.

Originally a table wine, it was fortified with brandy to stabilize it for long ocean journeys. On one fateful hot voyage to Brazil, a cask of Madeira (called a “pipe”) was accidentally left on board and eventually traveled back across the tropics to Funchal. When the wine merchants tasted it, all agreed that it was much better than when it left! Since then, Madeiras have been aged with the use of heat, and for a time pipes were actually shipped to the colonies and back to replicate that famous voyage. Eventually winemakers realized that they could recreate the tropical conditions of a ship voyage by storing the pipes in the eaves of Funchal’s wine lodges, where temperatures would climb to 45 degrees Celsius.

Madeira has an elegance and finesse not found in other fortified wines. Warm temperatures and evaporation concentrate flavors, and ongoing oxygen contact produce wines that are long lived and extremely stable. Open a bottle today and ten months from now it will taste as fresh as the day it was opened! Volcanic soils give the grapes high acidity which produce wines with a light mouth feel, intensity and a persistent finish.

The canteiro system: slow aging of varietal Madeiras at Blandy’s wine lodge

A glass of Madeira warms and satisfies on a cold, wet night. It’s also stellar served with creamy foods and holiday desserts such as pumpkin pie. Madeira adds richness to sauces and is excellent used in place of wine for deglazing sauté pans.

Here’s an easy and delicious recipe using Madeira:

Chanterelle Mushrooms in Madeira Sauce (Two servings)

1/4 cup olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 small onion, diced

1 cup fresh chanterelles, sliced

Salt and pepper to taste

1/2 cup creme fraiche or whipping cream

1/4 cup Feist Full Rich Madeira

1/2 tsp fresh thyme leaves

Heat olive oil over low heat and when warm, saute garlic and onion until translucent. Add mushrooms, thyme, salt and pepper and cook for five minutes, then add Madeira and simmer for another two minutes. Add creme fraiche and cook until warmed through, about 5 minutes. Serve immediately. This is excellent as a sauce for grilled pork chops or chicken, and would be a great side dish for the Thanksgiving dinner table.

MADEIRA WINES

We have the largest selection of Madeiras in the country. Here are some of our favorites:

Feist Full Rich ($17.99) Aged 3 years, it is smooth, viscous and full bodied. Feist Full Rich is a great introduction to a sweet Madeira as a tasty dessert drink or for use in cooking.

“Full Rich” Madeiras are made from the Tinta Negra grape which is the most widely grown grape on the island. “Full Rich” Madeiras are produced by the “estufagem” process which warms the wine by means of a pipe in the tank filled with warm water.

The most complex Madeiras are made from four traditional varietals (Sercial, Verdelho, Bual, Malmsey) whose production is declining in favor of the easier to grow Tinta Negra grape. Varietal Madeiras are produced in the “canteiro” method, in which pipes are aged slowly in the warm eaves of Funchal’s wine lodges.

Blandy’s 5 Year Bual ($22.99) Medium sweet, with light caramel flavors and spice. A hint of countryside herbs provides an intriguing background to this smooth Bual. Great acidity and concentration.

Leacock’s 10-year Bual ($41.00) “Very distinctive burnt treacle aroma, followed by concentrated flavors of caramel, walnut, iodine and green tea. There’s grip and length, with power on the back end.” 90 points Wine Spectator

Blandy’s 10 year Sercial ($37.00) Sercial is the driest Madeira and Blandy’s Sercial is a richer style than other brands. With butterscotch aromas, it is a bit sweeter than bone dry. Round and smooth on the palate, it’s flavors of roasted nuts with high acidity give Blandy’s Sercial a light and elegant mouth feel. The finish is lengthy and clean.

FLAMENCO PERFORMANCES Hot on the heels of last night’s passionate flamenco show at Benaroya Hall, Isabel Lopez from Casa Patas Flamenco Company in Madrid is performing at Taberna del Alabardero in Belltown. The Sunday show is sold out, but Taberna has added another show on Monday November 9th at 8:00 p.m. For information, call 206.448.8884.

FLAMENCO DE RAIZ presents RAFAEL DE UTRERA with Eric and Encarnación from Children of the Revolution with special guest percussionist Juanma Lucas

2 shows Saturday, November 7th, 2009 7PM & 9:30PM, Kirkland Performance Center (425) 893-9900

Rafael and Juanma are top level flamencos coming directly from Sevilla, Spain. Rafael is one of the most respected flamenco singers in the world today and will be coming off his current tour with Vicente Amigo. This will be a “flamenco puro” performance with dance numbers and cante jondo(deep or profound song).

PARIS GROCERY NEWS

Our new shop features French cheeses and wine, and other foods with a French mood. It’s located 1/4 of a block south of Spanish Table at 1418 Western Avenue.

New cheeses just in!

Tomme du Segala is produced in small amounts in the city of Carmaux in southern France, this raw goat’s milk cheese has an elastic texture that crumbles slightly. The flavor has hints of olives and grass.

Tomme Crayeuse is a semi-soft raw cow’s milk cheese from the Savoie that undergoes two stages of cave-aging. The final, intensely rich flavor is earthy, with mushroom and citrus notes. Created by one of France’s top affineurs, Max Schmidhauser.

Crémeux de Bourgogne is a cow’s milk triple-crème cheese from a small family of producers in Burgundy. This pasteurized, bloomy-rind cheese has a dense texture and a rich flavor with hints of fresh butter.

Tomme de Savoie is a pleasant table cheese form the Savoie with a distinct raw milk flavor – beefy, hazel nutty and pleasantly milky. With approximately 30% fat content, this is the most creamy ‘low fat’ cheese available. Enjoy with liver-stoked pâtés and light red wines like Beaujolais.

Pavé de Jadis So named because of its shape: pavé is a small paving stone. This fresh goat’s milk cheese from the Loire Valley is dusted with vegetable ash and has a fudge-like texture. The taste is very clean, mild and lemony.

NEW SPANISH TABLE CHEESES

Evora: This small Portuguese cheese (each wheel is only 6 ounces) is made from raw sheep’s milk which is filtered through a mesh lining after being immersed in a salt brine solution. Aged over 60 days, it is made with raw sheep milk and cardoon thistle near the historic city of Evora. Spicy and slightly acidic, it is fruity with a light-yellow color. Because of its slightly higher level of salt, it is well-suited for salads.

We now have Israeli feta!

Have a great week!

Sincerely,

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, Owners

The Spanish Table, 1426 Western Avenue, Seattle WA 98101 phone# 206.682.2827

Paris Grocery, 1418 Western Avenue, Seattle WA 98101 phone# 206.682.0679

Gifts For Gourmands

  
  
Even in my dead-broke college days, I always managed to scrape together a tasty meal. I discovered early on that having a larder full of staples guaranteed a home cooked meal that didn’t bust my budget. And in today’s great recession, a return to frugal eating just makes sense. But dining cheaply can be delicious as well! Here at The Spanish Table our stock of extraordinary and inexpensive grocery items includes dried beans and lentils, polenta, tuna and tomate frito (Spanish fried tomato sauce), cured sausages, pepper sauces, olives, North African spices and Valencian rice. These products also make great gifts for gourmands. Here are three loose recipes that can be thrown together with inexpensive ingredients: 
Polenta: Prepare polenta with grated cheese, top with grilled sausages, tomate frito and serve. 
Curried lentils: Boil lentils in chicken stock or water. Add cooked spinach, salt, pepper, tumeric, ground cumin and coriander to taste. Add a dollop of Harissa hot pepper sauce to make it spicy! 
White bean salad: Toss together cooked white beans and tuna, oil (use the oil that the tuna is packed in), vinegar, salt and pepper. Season with fresh chopped parsley and a small amount of fresh rosemary to taste. 
Spanish Table launches two new and improved websites! 
The Spanish Table wine website is now launched! We’ve got amazing wine values such as 2000 Valduero Reserva, originally $39.99, is now $23.99. 94 points Wine Advocate. Arranged by staff pick, by score, by price, by country, this virtual wine store has everything you’re looking for from Spain, Portugal, Madeira, or South America. Click The Spanish Table wine to visit the site. 
  
For all food and cookware products, click on The Spanish Table to check out our original and now revamped, website. It’s much easier to navigate and has a plethora of additional items. Now you can shop at home for Spanish food and wine! 

  

 

 

Whether you’re taking tapas to a party, giving food gifts or stocking your own larder, these are our favorite staples and a must for the serious cook.
Blanched Marcona Almonds:  Use in cakes and sweet breads.  Or fry in olive oil, salt and eat!
Organic Polenta from Argentina:  Intensely flavored; cooks in one minute.
Olive oil:   We have an extensive selection of Extra Virgin Olive Oils (EVOOs) in all prices, including Mas Portell White Truffle EVOO, Miguel & Valentino Smoked EVOO, Mustapha’s Moroccan EVOO, and Clos Mogador EVOO.   Clos Mogador’s olive oil is one of the most buttery, intensely flavored oils we’ve ever tasted.
Vinegars:   Sherry vinegar is essential for making gazpacho and is just plain delicious in salads.  Not limited to just Spanish recipes, many cuisines call for sherry vinegar, especially modern French dishes.
Flavored honeys:  We’ve got Portuguese, Greek and Spanish honeys including plain honey in an earthenware crock, lavender and rosemary flavored honeys. Delicious served over yogurt with walnuts!
Handmade Fig Paste:  This is fantastic with a soft goat cheese such as Caña de Cabra.
Turròn:  In addition to traditional almond and honey flavor, try chocolate turròn with peach & rose.
Los Chileros brand Specialty Popcorn from New Mexico!  Comes in red, white or blue corn. 
Whole, mini wheels of cheese.  These make excellent gifts for lovers of queso, and for serving at a party!    Mini drunken goat wheels, about one pound, approximately $15.00; mini El Trigal Manchego cheese, around 2 pounds, approximately $30.00.    Actual weight and cost varies depending on the size of the wheel.
Assortment of cured meats:  For the pork obsessed, what could be better than a selection of Jamon Serrano, Chorizo, Catalan Butifarra sausage, Linguica, or Morcilla?

 

SPANISH TABLE GIFT WINES   2007 Bodega Colome Malbec ($24.99) “This Argentine red is quite ripe, with nearly exotic plum sauce, braised fig and crushed blueberry notes rolled together, while spice, mocha and incense hints help stretch out the juicy, dense finish…” No 32 on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list, 92 points 
2006 Concha y Toro Carmenere Peumo Terrunyo, Chile ($26.99)  “Dark in profile, with plum and currant fruit, but very pure, with silky tannins and a long, stylish finish that lets incense, spice and mineral notes play out.”  No. 63 on Wine Spectator’s Top 100, 92 points   
2005 Montecastro, Ribera del Duero ($47.00) “.. it has an alluring bouquet of wood smoke, toast, crushed stone, violets, black raspberry, and blackberry. This is followed by an opulent, full-flavored wine with gobs of spicy fruit, excellent integration of oak, tannin, and acidity, and 4-6 years of aging potential. It will be at its best between 2013 and 2025.”   93 points Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator
2006 Mas D’En Compte, Priorat ($40.00)” Vibrant raspberry and cherry aromas are energized by blood orange and baking spices. Fresh red fruit flavors are complicated by an exotic lavender pastille quality and given lift by juicy acidity. An elegant, precise wine that finishes with excellent tangy cut and persistence.”  91 points Stephen Tanzer
2005 El Castro de Valtuille, Bierzo ($34.00) ” Peppery, mineral-dominated bouquet of fresh strawberry, raspberry and blood orange, with cracked pepper and graphite notes gaining strength with aeration. Racy, sharply focused red fruit flavors offer intensity without weight, picking up chewy tannins on the back end…”  90 points Stephen Tanzer, 92 points Wine Advocate

Kopke Rosé Porto ($21.99)  Arrived today, just in time for the holidays!  Not as extracted as a red port, it is fresh and round with notes of  forest fruits and roasted nuts.  Serve alone as a dessert wine, or make a festive Portuguese kir by adding some bubbly.  
2001 was an excellent vintage all over Spain, and one of the best in Rioja since 1994.   The 2001 vintage Gran Reservas started arriving this fall, and they are phenomenal.   Showing more ripe fruit than other vintages, and with characteristic silky tannins, they are the ultimate special occasion food wine.    Subsequent vintages have not matched up to the 2001, so this is a great time to stow some away in the cellar before they sell out!
2001 Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva Rioja ($57.00) From a top-notch Rioja producer with impeccable standards, the ‘01 Prado Enea, is fantastic.  ” A complex, heady bouquet of dried red berries, sandalwood, rose oil, black tea and licorice pastille. Smooth, focused and gently sweet cherry and raspberry flavors coat the palate, with gentle but integrated tannins providing shape. This silky, seamless wine finishes with a strong echo of candied flowers, spices and minerals.”   93 points Stephen Tanzer  
2001 Marques de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Rioja ($60.00) The ‘01 Ygay is so incredible that we stashed a case of this away in our own cellar.  ” Impressively complex bouquet of dried red fruits, tobacco, cedar and potpourri. A spicy, subtly sweet midweight, offering lively redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors and very soft tannins. The smoky finish features a strong echo of cedary spice.”  92 points Stephen Tanzer  

 

PARIS GROCERY NEWS

Our new shop features French cheeses and wine, and other foods with a French mood.   It’s located 1/4 of a block south of Spanish Table at 1418 Western Avenue.  

These products will make any Francophile very, very, happy.

Fleur Verte: This fresh, creamy goat cheese is festively adorned with thyme, tarragon, and pink peppercorns and has clean, lemony, and boldly herbaceous flavor.
Époisses: Brillat-Savarin dubbed this “The King of All Cheeses.” And the man knew his cheeses! This famously pungent, washed-rind cheese from Burgundy has a distinctly earthy flavor and an irresistibly gooey texture. It will convert you into a stinky cheese lover!
Monin Pumpkin Spice and Maple Spice syrups: Made with pure cane sugar, these versatile syrups add a splash of holiday flavor to coffee, hot cocoa,  or a warm-you-up cocktail.  Try them in whipped cream for topping seasonal desserts!
Le Pére Pelletier Sel du Boucher (Butcher’s Salt): Fleur de sel with rosemary, thyme, sage, and marjoram.  Packaged in a handsome wooden box, it makes a terrific gift!
Christmas Lima Beans: These gorgeous, red- and white-marbled beans from Cassoulets USA make a stunning and healthful, addition to your holiday spread. These beans hold their intricate coloring even after cooking. Make Christmas Lima Bean Soup with D’Artagnan duck bacon, wild mushrooms, and chopped chestnuts.
Charcuterie:  For the Francophile pork obsessed, these cured products are wonderful on a party table and also make great gifts: Rabbit sausage with prunes, Toulouse Sausage, Pork and Wild Boar, Chicken and Truffle.   We also have Duck Salami, Smoked Duck Breast and Cured Pork Bellies.

 

 

PARIS GROCERY WINES    10% discount on six bottles or more at Paris Grocery! 2007 Domaine des Domaine des Ouleb Thaleb Syrocco, (Morocco )$17.99  Alain Graillot, a highly regarded Crozes-Hermitage producer, met the owners of Thalvin while cycling through Morocco.  The family has made wine for decades on the black tirss soils near the high elevation town of Rommani. Graillot decided to team up with them to produce this rich syrah.  Lush, and with juicy ripe fruit, it has balance and verve.  This was terrific served  with braised rabbit in mustard sauce! A great gift for bicyclists who like full-bodied red wines.    “Packed, in a brawny, muscular style atypical for this lush vintage, with a gravelly undertow to the currant paste, braised fig and dark licorice notes. Picks up even more steam on the finish, with grilled mesquite, mineral and garrigue notes and a long, hot stone-filled finish”  No 3 on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 wines of 2009, 95 points   2005 Vieux Telegramme Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($31.99)  The second wine from Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe is awesome and drinking beautifully now! “Ripe, with nice kirsch and raspberry fruit backed by darker hints of applewood-smoked bacon, plum sauce and dark licorice. Juicy and long on the finish, this stretches out nicely.”   91 points Wine Spectator     2007 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe “La Crau”, Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($85.00) 3 bottles available

FLAMENCO PERFORMANCES December 5th  8pm   One night only!! Al Cante Vicente Griego Al Toque Ricardo Diaz Al Baile Savannah Fuentes                Veronica Barrera Rendezvous Jewelbox Theater 2322 2nd Ave. $25 in advance,$30 at the door Tickets are limited to 60 available at www.brownpapertickets.com http://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/91558     Have a great week and we’ll see you soon!   Sincerely,   Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, Owners The Spanish Table, 1426 Western Avenue, Seattle WA  98101  phone# 206.682.2827        Hours:  Monday- Saturday, 10 AM – 6 PM  Sunday 11 AM – 5 PM   Paris Grocery, 1418 Western Avenue, Seattle WA  98101 phone# 206.682.0679  Hours:  Tuesday- Saturday, 10 AM – 6 PM  Sunday 11 AM – 5 PM, except Paris Grocery is closed on Mondays

A New Twist on an Old Favorite

August 21, 2001

Numerous years ago, before we discovered Spain, we took many a road trip to Northern California in the old Dodge van. We camped at Crater Lake, spent time in Mendocino, and loaded up the van with Zinfindels from Napa and Sonoma. So when we were invited to do a cookbook signing and paella demonstration at the Point Reyes Farmer’s Market last weekend, we couldn’t pass it up.  

Point Reyes is located about an hour north of our Mill Valley shop. It’s a forty mile long peninsula jutting into the Pacific ocean and is populated with dairy farms whose placid bovines roam bucolic pastures and provide the raw material for the famous Point Reyes cheese.

The best part of making a paella at a farmer’s market, aside from the great breakfast choices like pork-tomatillo panini, is the array of incredible fresh ingredients.

We brought Zoe Meats chorizo with us, and added fresh onions, garlic, squash, peppers, green and purple beans, piquillo peppers, Ferrer brand Sofrito sauce, saffron, rice and chicken stock and finished it with squash blossoms. It looked amazing and the flavor was sublime! It was the best kind of make-it-up-on-the-spot recipe but also may be tough to replicate.

And the next time you’re in Point Reyes, make sure to dine at Osteria Stellina. It was fantastic!

www.osteriastellina.com

Being close to our Bay Area locations meant that we also cooked paellas at each store.

Our Amontillado and Chicken Paella with Chorizo is always a crowd pleaser and the ultimate in simplicity, perfect for a paella demo. Recipe from The Spanish Table cookbook: (serves 4)

 

1/4 cup Spanish olive oil

4 chicken thighs

Approximately 16 strands of saffron

1 large onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

2 links Spanish chorizo

2 cups Spanish short-grain Valencian rice, preferably bomba

1 cup medium dry Amontillado sherry

3 cups chicken stock

Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch paella pan and brown the chicken. Stir in the onions, sautéing until wilted, and then add the garlic, cooking another minute or two. Add the chorizo and cook until the fat is released. Then stir in the rice to coat and add the sherry.

Bring to a boil. When the sherry is absorbed by the rice, add the stock and saffron, reduce the heat, and simmer until the rice is done, about 20-25 minutes.

 

Jehan cleaned up the pan in front of our Berkeley store.

 

 

NEW WHITE WINES

2008 Cabriz Encruzado, Dao ($13.99) A single vineyard wine, Cabriz is made from the Encruzado grape, and produced in limited quantities. Aged 6 months in oak using the battonage process, it has flavors of crisp pear and buttered toast . A creamy texture with a dry and lingering finish make this a wonderful accompaniment to seafood in cream sauce.

2008 Sete Cepas Albariño, Rias Baixas ($17.99)

Very much a family project, Sete Cepas refers to the wine making team of 7 brothers. Produced near the coast, each sip has the tang of sea air with aromas of white peach. Loaded with minerality and lemon zest flavors, Sete Cepas has lively acidity with notes of stone fruit, pear and great finesse. Excellent with shellfish!

Luis Pato Maria Gomez Bruto Vinho Espumante ($14.99) The Maria Gomez grape (called Fernáo Pires in other regions of Portugal) has extraordinary aromas and capacity to produce distinctive wines with strong character. Maria Gomez Bruto is a light and crisp sparkling wine showing the delicate floral and orange-lime citrus flavors characteristic of the grape. A persistent, dry finish with soft bubbles make this a terrific choice for pairing with rich cheeses or seafood.

Luis Pato Casta Baga Bruto Rosé Vinho Espumante ($14.99) Luis Pato is one of the most respected oenologists in Portugal and has earned the nickname “King of Baga”. The Baga grape is complex, with powerful tannins and ripe berry flavors and Casta Baga Bruto Rosé exemplifies Luis Pato’s mastery of this grape. A crisp and dry sparkling rosé wine, it shows minerality along with its full fruit flavors. The typical structured tannins are subdued into a silky finish in this delightful rosé. Absolutely divine with roast suckling pig, the signature dish of Pato’s region.

NEW RED WINES

2007 Andeluna Malbec, Mendoza ($8.99) Hand crafted in collaboration with Michel Rolland, Andeluna Malbec has a touch of Merlot and Cabernet, and 7 months aging in French and American oak. Round and ripe flavors of plum, cherry and blackberry are rounded out by notes of chocolate. Lush black currant and coffee compliment the sweet tannins and produce an exceptional value. Serve it with grilled lamb burgers!

2005 Rondan Crianza (Rioja) $11.99 The new vintage of Rondan Crianza is one of our favorite value Riojas. Produced from 90% Tempranillo and 10% Garnacha, the grapes are hand picked and aged in American oak for 18 months. With intense depth of black cherry flavors and notes of pepper and musk, this is a traditional Rioja with clean fruit flavors. Ample but not overpowering tannins with balanced acidity make this a great food wine. Serve it with pork or rice dishes.

2001 Marques de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial Rioja ($60.00) Just arrived! 2001 was a legendary vintage, and this wine was featured in last week’s New York Times Rioja article. “Impressively complex bouquet of dried red fruits, tobacco, cedar and potpourri. A spicy, subtly sweet midweight, offering lively redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors and very soft tannins. The smoky finish features a strong echo of cedary spice.” 92 points Stephen Tanzer

To read the New York Times article, follow this link: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/12/dining/12pour.html?_r=1&scp=2&sq=rioja&st=cse

2006 Don Nicanor Blend, Mendoza ($17.99) A blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot, this Argentinean red is full-bodied with concentrated ripe berry and casssis notes. 12 months of aging in new French oak provide notes of vanilla and lush tannins. The pure finish has a touch of cherry skin and black tea. This is a complex wine, extremely well balanced and a fantastic match for grilled steak with blue cheese.

DELI SPECIALS

Zoe Meats Chorizo

New Sale Price $20.99

Our all time favorite chorizo is now on sale. These ‘food service’ size chorizos are over a pound and a half. They are the definitely the best value and the tastiest chorizo in our case. We recommend slicing and serving as a tapa or making Bocadillos.

Zamorano Cheese

Most of you are familiar with this artisanal Spanish cheese produced in Castilla Leon, in the Zamorano province. It is made with milk from the Churra Eve sheep which is high in fat and gives particularly high-quality milk. Complex, full bodied, moist and subtly tangy with lingering parmesan notes. Serve Zamorano with ham, melon, pears, tomatoes, crusty bead and a solid Spanish red wine.

Now available pre-cut in our deli grab-and-go case. Sale price: $17.99/lb.

 

NEW PRODUCTS

The New Portuguese Table cookbook by David Leite ($32.50) Written by the American-born son of an immigrant Portuguese family, David Leite learned to cook hearty Portuguese dishes at his grandmother’s side. Traveling to Portugal, the author discovered the traditional ingredients reimagined in modern cuisine and was inspired to write this cookbook. Leite melds the classic and contemporary, introducing innovative modern dishes in over 100 recipes.

Dende Oil – Also called palm oil, it is an essential ingredient in moqueca, the sumptious Brazilian seafood stew

Homemade Plum Membrillo from Spain, made from quince and plum.

Valenciano crackers flavored with Rosemary

Reganas - Andalucian tapas crackers made with Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Guarana Brazilian soft drinks, now including Diet!

Wild Lavender Honey from Murcia Spain – Excellent with goat cheese!

 

SPANISH WINE DINNER

Join us at Taberna del Alabardero for a selected tasting of Jorge Ordonez wines, on Wednesday Sept. 2nd, 6 p.m. Special attendance by Sara Floyd, M.S. who will talk about the five wines, each paired with a separate course. $75.00 (tax and service charge not included). For reservations and information: 206.448.8884, for more details, click this link:

http://www.alabardero.com/seattle/2-September-09Jorge%20Ordonez%20DinnerWEB.pdf

 

FLAMENCO PERFORMANCE

Saturday August 22nd Carmona Flamenco, featuring guest artist Ana Montes. 8:00 p.m., Solstice Cafe, 4116 University Way $20.00 information: 206.932.4067 http://www.fanw.org

 

Have a great week!

 

Sincerely,

 

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, Owners

The Spanish Table

Remelluri: Rioja’s First Chateau Style Winery

Remelluri: Rioja’s First Chateau Style Winery

July 16, 2009

Visiting Granja Nuestra Senora de Remelluri in Rioja was like strolling the grounds of an immaculate Tuscan villa. Italian cypress trees and beds of lavender line the driveway; ancient fig and olive trees surround the vineyards. Roses and wisteria climb a profusion of trellises; only a nearby castle reminds you that you’re in Spain. A sense of serenity and peace pervade the grounds, a legacy perhaps from the monks of the Monastery of Tolono who made wine here in the 15th century. At the end of the 18th century, some of these vineyards were in the hands of Manuel Quintano, the cleric who introduced the wine-making methods of the Medoc to Spain to produce the first Spanish red wines aged in the cask. In the 1960’s, the Granja was purchased by its current owners, Jaime and Amaya Rodrogiuez Salis who dedicated themselves to bringing the vineyards back to their former glory, replanting with local varieties of Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Graciano and Viura grapes and building the current bodega on the ruins of the old monastic buildings. Jaime and Amaya’s rock star winemaker son, Telmo Rodriguez cut his oenological teeth here and now has his own projects in several regions of Spain.

The vineyards are located at the foot of the Tolono mountains, at an elevation of up to 800 meters. The soil is poor, and extreme temperature fluctuations between night and day from August to the end of October make maturation slow and produce grapes of superb quality. North winds lower the risk of pests resulting from humidity. Vineyards are tended sustainably but are not certified organic. Remelluri’s goal is to obtain healthy, ripe, concentrated, low-yield grapes. They do not irrigate. They select and graft their own plants. They do not use herbicides, systemic products or chemical fertilizers. Only organic compost and manure are used, with traditional methods such as copper, sulphur and chalk as preventive treatments. One of the vineyards was planted in 1875, before the arrival of phylloxera.

THE SINGLE ESTATE WINES OF REMELLURI

Malolactic fermentation takes place for one month in large French tinas which are more than 100 years old. The estate has 80 plots with 256 microclimates, which are vinified separately. After rackings and tastings, the tinas with the best wine are selected to make Remelluri and blended. The blend is placed into small oak barricas for aging from 12 to 15 months, followed by a couple of years of bottle aging. Remelluri’s first vintage was 1971.

 

2004 Remelluri Rioja Tinto ($34.99) We tasted this at the winery and were blown away by the luscious fruit and full body with notes of white pepper. This powerful Rioja will keep improving over the next 4 to 5 years. “Captivating aromas of cherry, cured meat, tobacco and licorice. Lush and juicy, with fresh red and dark fruit flavors, silky tannins and slow-mounting herbal qualities. Turns sweeter on the finish, with sexy oak spices lingering seductively. This is really delicious and already complex enough to enjoy in the near term.” 93 points Stephen Tanzer

Wednesday’s New York Times wrote a fascinating, in-depth article about the wines of Ribera Sacra made from the mencia grape. A little-known region in Galicia, it is characterized by slate soils, terraced hillsides and silky wines with a wealth of minerality, sometimes reminiscent of Burgandy. We have two wines mentioned in the article: D. Ventura 2006 Vina Caneiro ($25.99) and 2007 Alodio ($17.99). To read the article, follow this link:

http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2009/07/14/dining/20090715-pourSUB-slideshow_index.html?ref=dining

PICNIC WINES FOR HOT WEATHER

2007 Basa, Rueda ($11.99) A snappy blend of Verdejo, Viura and a splash of Sauvignon Blanc give this white wine a hint of fresh grassiness. Rich flavors of white plum, peach and grapefruit abound. Versatile enough to pair with cheese or spicy Asian foods, it is absolutely refreshing on a hot day.

2007 Dom Martinho rose, Estremoz ($8.99) Rothschild-Lafite acquired this estate in 1992 and since has brought the vineyards back to immaculate condition, as only the Rothschilds can do. Dom Martinho rose is fresh and clean, with vibrant strawberry-raspberry flavors. With great acidity and hints of mineral, this is an all around versatile, refreshing wine to pair with grilled seafood or just for sipping.

2008 Commanderie de la Bargemone Rose, Aix en Provence ($15.99) When Muga rosado, our favorite light rose from Spain sold out in a matter of weeks – just as summer was kicking in – we found the closest substitute, which happened to be from southern France. Light salmon colored, it has wild strawberry and nectarine flavors. Juicy, crisp and refreshing – what could be more perfect on a hot day? 89 points Stephen Tanzer

2007 Paso A Paso Tempranillo, La Mancha ($9.99) “Vivid purple. Complex aromas of cherry, anise, cracked pepper and pungent herbs; not many $10.00 wines have this much going on. Rich cherry and dark berry flavors are modestly concentrated but strikingly pure, showing impressive mineral snap. Leaves sweet blueberry and and candied licorice notes behind on the long, sappy finish.” 89 points Josh Reynolds, IWC

2007 Dehesa Gago, Toro ($17.99) Both Basa and Dehesa Gago are produced by winemaker Telmo Rodriguez, who grew up on the Remelluri estate. Consistently, the Dehesa Gago delivers ripe fruit, structure and elegance. ” Bright medium red. Spicy redcurrant and cherry aromas are complicated by fresh flowers and minerals. Light and juicy, offering refreshing raspberry and blackberry flavors and very good mineral lift. There’s a pinot-like elegance here that I find extremely appealing. Finishes brisk and persistent.” 90 points Stephen Tanzer

 

NEW ARRIVALS THIS WEEK

Our container from Spain arrived on Wednesday containing Stuffed Olives and paella making cookware:

Carbon steel, Enameled, and Stainless Steel Paelleras in various sizes are back in stock.

Butanos for cooking paella outdoors – All sizes are back in stock!

Round Iron Fire rings: Cook your paella on one of these rings over a fire in the backyard or at the beach.

Montegrato Stuffed Manzanilla Olives – Choose from 6 different stuffings

Salmon stuffed, Tuna stuffed, Blue Cheese, Feta, Shrimp, and Anchovy stuffed.

 

FLAMENCO PERFORMANCES

Saturday July 18 Live Flamenco at Casablanca Restaurant and Lounge, 113 Virginia Street, Seattle 206-448-3590 Guitar: Tyson Hussey, Vocals/dance: Esther Marion, Dance: Savannah Fuentes, Veronica Barrera 8:30 pm & 10:00 pm Tickets: www.brownpapertickets.com

Saturday July 25th Carmona Flamenco 8:00 p.m. and 9:30 p.m. $20.00 cover, no reservaqtions, Solstice Cafe, 4116 University Ave. N.E. More information at (206) 932-4067 or marcos@fanw.org

 

Enjoy the summer weather and hope to see you soon!

 

Sincerely,

 

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, Owners

Spanish Table

Travels in Rueda

Travels in Rueda

July 1, 2009

Driving out of Segovia raving over last night’s tapas of grilled asparagus, zucchini, shrimp, garlic and smoked salt, we head for La Seca in the heart of D.O. Rueda. Now widely renowned for its fresh white wines made from Verdejo, in the 1970s, the Verdejo grape was practically wiped out by more prolific varieties such as Viura and Palomino. Visionary Angel Rodríguez realized the treasure in his 17th-century Martinsancho Verdejo vineyard and refused to uproot it. For his untiring efforts in reestablishing Verdejo’s prominence in its region of origin he was officially honored by King Juan Carlos.

Angel Rodriguez in his vineyard

The majuelo (plot) of Martínsancho is less than an acre of gnarled vines, preserved in isolation as a museum of prephylloxera viticulture and as a continuing source of undisputed varietal authenticity, treasured by nurseries throughout Europe. In 1976, Angel regrafted 25 acres of his best vineyard, using Martínsancho cuttings. Rodriguez makes one wine: Martinsancho, produced from 100% Verdejo and made in the historic bodega that they’ve occupied since 1780. They still utilize the subterranean bodega which is 3 stories underground, replete with 5,000-liter oak bocoyes in continuous use for centuries.

Underground bodega at Bodegas Angel Rodriguez

At the opposite end of the winemaking spectrum but with every bit as much reverence for the Verdejo grape, is Bodegas Jose Pariente. Oenologist Victoria Pariente (one of only four women winemakers in Spain who also own their bodegas) inherited the passion for winemaking from her father Jose, who produced his own artisan wines. A new state of the art winery is still under construction and without a sign, it looks unoccupied from the highway. But drive around back and there’s a bee hive of activity! Every step of the winemaking process here is analyzed and controlled with the latest technology to preserve freshness and avoid oxidation, which easily happens with the Verdejo grape. The hand picked grapes are brought from the surrounding vineyards directly to a refrigerated storage cooler and then crushed and piped under refrigeration to temperature controlled fermentation tanks. The bodega uses nitrogen in all of the must handling to minimize oxidation. The pebble covered vineyards are from 40 years to 100 years old, situated in the “Golden Mile” of Rueda, the highest part of the plateau, whose Atlantic climate has strong variations of day and night temperatures.

In the vineyard with Victoria Pariente and her assistant

WHITE WINES FROM RUEDA

2008 Martinsancho Verdejo, Rueda ($18.99) The harsh continental climate and extreme altitude, together with the soil’s austere inhospitality to all types of insects and bacteria, allow for the practice of completely organic viticulture. From free-run juice, the new wine is racked into centuries-old subterranean bocoyes prior to clarification and bottling. 2008 was a cool, late harvest producing a full bodied, freshly fruity and minerally complex Verdejo.

2007 Jose Pariente Verdejo, Rueda ($21.99) Ecologically produced from 40 year old vines planted by Jose Pariente, the winemaker’s father. Daily battonage provides a creamy texture, backed up by fresh aromas of citrus and delicate pear flavors. …”The 2007 Varietal Verdejo is a superb expression of this once under-rated grape variety. The fruit was sourced from a 40 year old, 6-hectare estate vineyard. Medium straw-colored, the wine has an alluring fragrance of mineral, lemon-lime, citrus, and floral notes.” 90 points Wine Advocate

2007 Martina Prieto Verdejo, Rueda ($15.99) The daughter of Victoria Pariente makes this wine using extreme methods such as harvesting grapes at night to lock in the fresh aromatics. Martina Prieto bursts with flavors of creamy grapefruit, ripe pineapple, lime, flint, and a hint of cinnamon. Vibrant with acidity, this is the perfect wine to serve with octopus ceviche.

2007 Marques de Irun Verdejo, Rueda ($12.99) Fresh and lively on the palate, with aromas of white grapefruit. Unctuous on the palate, with flavors of citrus, a hint of honeydew melon and palate cleansing minerality. With a persistent, crisp finish, it pairs wonderfully with shellfish.

 

RED WINES

Gear up for barbeque weather this weekend! These are stellar reds to match with grilled ribs or lamb burgers:

2007 Vale Da Clara, Douro ($13.99) The new vintage of this red table wine is a staff favorite! Complex black fruit flavors are nicely structured by accessible tannins. Smooth and well balanced, this tasty red is perfect for quaffing when you’re sitting around with friends on the deck.

2007 La Planta, Ribera del Duero ($15.99) I had a glass of this at a tapas bar in Valladolid. It was sensational with my tapa of roasted eggplant, onion confit and carmelized cabbage. 100% Tempranillo, it has been barrel aged 6 months. There’s a hint of smoke behind the smooth boysenberry, licorice and black cherry fruit. With great food pairing acidity, it is full bodied, balanced, with a dry and pleasing finish. Recommended value wine under $25.00 by Wine Advocate.

2007 Clos de los Siete, Mendoza ($18.99) “Bright, full ruby-red. Crushed black fruits, mocha, bitter chocolate, licorice and smoked meat on the nose. Sweet, penetrating and firm-edged; … I like this wine’s balance of sweetness and acidity…” “There may be no finer red wine value in Argentina than this superb blend of 48% Malbec, 28% Merlot, 12% Syrah, and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon… This lengthy effort over-delivers and then some.” 89 points Stephen Tanzer, 91 points Jay Miller

 

Winemaker tasting: Meet Martina Pariente, producer of Martina Prieto Verdejo at Tango Restaurant on Sunday July 12, from 6:00 to 8:00 p.m. A selection of tapas will be paired with three red wines and the Martina Prieto Verdejo. $30.00. For reservations, contact Tango Restaurant 206.583.0382

Sincerely,

 

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, Owners

Spanish Table

A Great Unknown Winery in Rioja

A GREAT UNKNOWN WINERY

July 9, 2009

A few years ago we were at Eva Restaurant in Latona which is co-owned by James Hondros, our former wine manager. James poured us each a glass of Saturnia Crianza Rioja which we enjoyed so much that we took a bottle over to my late Dad’s house. After that, whenever I told my Dad I was coming over, he would ask if I could bring along some more bottles of those “saturn” wines.

When we chose our favorite bodegas to visit last month, naturally Rioja’s holy trinity headed the list: R. Lopez Heredia, producer of Vina Tondonia, La Rioja Alta and Bodegas Muga. (Interesting fact: the front doors of these wineries are only meters apart in Haro’s Railroad District where a hundred years ago, they loaded huge barrels of wine on flat cars and sent them off to France which was suffering the scourge phylloxera.)

But one of our most enjoyable visits was with Bodegas Ramon de Ayala Lete y Hijos, who make Vina Santurnia and Deobriga. Just across the Ebro river from Haro in the tiny town of Briñas, they have a new, functional winery nestled between houses on a side street. The modern winery replaced the old bodega which has a two story underground wine cave, now used for aging home-made Cava. Laboring in quiet obscurity, there are few visitors and no tasting room. However, 4th generation winemaker Ramon de Alaya was charming and hospitable during our 4 hour visit, as we visited the vineyards, the old bodega, tasted barrel samples and the most recent releases.  The secret to his nuanced wines lies in his south facing vineyards which are nestled high up against the Sierra Cantabria mountains. His oldest vineyards were planted in 1936; the youngest vineyards are 30-40 years old. The vines, planted to a mix of traditional Rioja grapes, are overseen by Ramon’s grandson, a technical agronomist engineer. Minimal intervention is used in the vineyard, whose late ripening grapes achieve great depth and balance.

THE WINES OF VINA SANTURNIA

Stay ahead of the wine critics and try one of these little-known wines!

2004 Vina Santurnia Crianza Rioja ($15.99) Made of 100% Tempranillo, the Crianza has inviting fresh aromas, with flavors of bing cherry, boysenberry, toast and licorice. Notes of vanilla frame a persistent, earthy finish. Give it 20 minutes to open up and savor the complexity.

2004 Deobriga Seleccion Familiar, Rioja ($21.99) Spanish Table exclusive! The most modern style Rioja produced by Bodegas Ramon de Ayala Lete y Hijos, we jumped at the chance to carry this an an exclusive. Made from old vine Tempranillo and Graciano, it has complex flavors of blackberry, blueberry, hints of black olive and tobacco. A supple and full bodied Rioja, it is well balanced with notes of vanilla and minerals. An all around superb Rioja!

1999 Vina Santurnia Gran Reserva Rioja ($40.00) Notes of balsamic, plum and black cherry infuse this traditional style, medium bodied Rioja. Elegant, with notes of smoke and cedar that compliment silky tannins. Balanced and extremely well crafted, the Gran Reserva is smooth with a persistent finish. A knock out with any grilled meat.

 

NEW CHEESES

Los Beyos is a dense, compact, “peasant” style artisan cow’s milk cheese from the Asturias region of Spain. It has a unique flinty texture. The first bite’s slight chalkiness melts into a big, buttery, creamy texture with a well-balanced and tangy finish.

Valèe d’Aspe This pleasantly earthy and grassy raw cow and sheep’s milk farmstead Tomme is crafted by Basque artisans in the shadow of the Pyrenees. Firm, but not flaky, this cheese speaks of mountain terroir with nutty notes, vibrant tanginess, and an olive savoriness.

Young Majorero con Pimentòn Those of you already familiar with this exotic cheese from the Canary Islands will enjoy the younger version coated with Pimentòn from the same region. Majorero is unlike any other! Made from the aromatic rich milk of goats that graze on wild marjoram. Flavors of almonds and a spiciness make this a unique cheese. Pair this with full bodied and spicy red Tajinaste from the Canary Islands. – Jorge

 

“SPAIN 2009 – AN ABUNDANCE OF RICHES” was last week’s Wine Advocate sensational review of 600+ Spanish wines. With superb vintages in 2004 and 2005, and excellent 2006 and 2007 harvests, over 490 wines received a rating of 90 points or higher. We’ve been advocating little known Spanish wines since 1995 and it’s rewarding to see the wine press finally taking notice in a big way!

HIGHLY RATED WINES THAT WE HAVE IN STOCK:

2006 Clos Erasmus, Priorat – 97 points ($190.00) 3 bottles available “As usual Clos Erasmus is one of Spain’s finest wines. The 2006 Clos Erasmus offers an ethereal bouquet of balsam and sandalwood, incense, liquid mineral, black cherry, and black raspberry. Dense, rich, and voluptuous on the palate, it has plenty of well-concealed ripe tannin, tons of fruit, and potential complexity.”

2006 Flor de Pingus, Ribera del Duero – 94 points ($79.00) “The 2006 Flor de Pingus spent 14 months in new French oak. Deep purple in color, it gives up a superb bouquet of toasty oak, spice box, mineral, incense, black cherry, and blackberry. Youthful, full-bodied, intense, and powerful on the palate, it retains an elegant personality despite its size. Splendidly balanced, it will evolve for 4-6 years and deliver prime drinking from 2013 to 2026. It is a superb value in great wine considering that the price of Pingus Junior is one-tenth that of Pingus.”

2006 Alto Moncayo, Campo de Borja – 94 points ($42.00) 8 bottles available “The purple-colored 2006 Alto Moncayo was aged in new French and American oak for 17 months before bottling without filtration. It offers up a sexy concoction of toasty new oak, lavender, spice box, cassis, and black raspberry. Round, rich, and voluptuous on the palate, it delivers plenty of up-front pleasure but hides enough ripe tannin to evolve for a few years. It can be enjoyed now and over the next decade.”

2005 Castro Ventosa El Castro de Valtuille, Bierzo – 92 points ($34.00) “The 2005 El Castro de Valtuille offers some toasty oak notes, plum, violets, and black cherry in its expressive perfume. This leads to a medium-bodied, sweet, intensely flavored wine with flavors of spice box, cherry, and cranberry. Long and pure, it will provide pleasure over the next 4-6 years.”

2005 Muga Reserva Unfiltered, Rioja – 90 points ($25.99) Winemaker Jorge Muga feels that the harvests of 2001 and 2005 produced the best Reserva in their history. “The purple-colored 2005 Muga Reserva, a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, and the balance Mazuelo and Graciano. It was aged for six months in wood vats followed by two years in new French and American oak. It delivers an alluring nose of cedar, tobacco, earth notes, mineral, and black cherry. This is followed by an elegant wine with good depth and enough ripe tannin to evolve for several years. Nicely balanced and long in the finish, it will be at its best from 2012 to 2020 if not longer.”

 

NEW FOOD ARRIVALS:

Guava paste, 400 g and 600 g sizes

Napoleon grilled artichokes in oil (7.5 oz) We tossed these with pasta and halibut for a quick and delicious dinner this week.

Dona Maria Nopalitos (15 oz) Cactus leaves are used in salads, soups and tacos all across Mexico

Dona Maria Black Mole sauce (8.25 oz) Concentrated. Add liquid, heat and serve.

Annato Seed Achiote: 1 oz, 3 oz, 10 sizes

Mas Portell flavored olive oils: Lemon and Clementine are back!

 

FLAMENCO WORKSHOP WITH MARIA BERMEDUEZ FROM JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA

July 10, 11, and 12, 2009

Flamenco Arts Northwest presents a three day workshop with Maria “Chacha” Bermudez, Friday evening through Sunday afternoon. The legendary dancer and teacher from Jerez will teach two 90 minute levels each day of the workshop, accompanied by Marcos and Rubina on guitar and cante.

Workshop will be held at American Dance Institute, 8007 Greenwood Ave. North. Preregistration is strongly advised as this event always fills up quickly! Times and prices are posted at www.FANW.org (see calendar or workshops), or call Rubina at (206) 932-4067 for more information.

Enjoy our great summer, and come see us at the shop!

 

Sincerely,

 

Sharon Baden & Steve Winston, Owners

The Spanish Table

Rewarded by Rioja Gran Reservas

Rewarded by Rioja Gran Reservas

May 28, 2009

My definition of rewarding: Scouring Madrid’s back alleys under dim street light, clutching a map, and finally stumbling into Casa Botin, the oldest restaurant in Europe. But alas, it’s full of tourists, and we start backing out the door. Then we spot the porcine room: shelves lined with splayed baby pigs in piglet-sized cazuelas. We are definitely eating here!! We order a Faustino Gran Reserva and discover that there is no better match for roast suckling pig than a Rioja. We eat. We drink. And, since that day in 1985, we are forever fans of Gran Reservas from Rioja.

Gran Reservas are not for fans of powerful, fruit forward wines. But for those who appreciate nuance, elegance and texture in their wines, there is absolutely no substitute. Every sip of a Gran Reserva is a history lesson, going back to the influence of Bordeaux winemakers in the 1800’s. But last week at the Vibrant Rioja tasting in New York, experts were predicting that in 5 to 10 years, probably no bodegas will be producing Gran Reservas! What, you exclaim, how can that be? The wine world is changing. And it is incredibly expensive and risky to craft a wine that will be aged for years before sale.  So if you are a fan of these wines, get them while you can!

One of my best days ever was last week’s Vibrant Rioja event in New York. We tasted through 15 Rioja Gran Reservas from vintage 1964 through 2002, including the best recent vintages of the century (1964, 1981, 1982, 1994, 1995, 1996). We are lucky enough to have a couple of these in stock:

1964 Faustino I Gran Reserva ($189.00) 1964 was a miracle vintage. Consistently across Rioja’s varied terrunyo and microclimates, each bodega produced great wines in this vintage. The 1964 Faustino Gran Reserva is a stellar example of the classic Rioja. Seductive and elegant, its subtle flavors of cherry and plum are well integrated with soft grained tannins and a persistent finish that slowly fades. Wonderfully balanced with acidity, this the ultimate wine to serve with lamb.

2002 Campo Viejo Gran Reserva ($19.99) Great value! Campo Viejo has flavors of dry cherry, plum and baking spices which expand and gain complexity in the mouth. With moderate tannins and balanced acidity, it finishes smooth and long. Serve this with grilled pork tenderloin.

We have other outstanding Gran Reservas, including a 1968 Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva ($327.00), 1991 Paternina Gran Reserva ($85.00), and a 1994 La Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva ($135.00).

 

NEW PRODUCTS

Mezza Country Olive Hummus

Kalamata, black, and zesty green Mediterranean olives provide a complex flavor to this fresh silky textured hummus. A perfect summer afternoon snack $3.49

Anjou Bakery Fruit and Nut Crostini

The world’s best crostini comes from Cashmere, Washington. Who knew? These toasted wonders are made with a perfect blend of wholesome grains, nuts and raisins. My favorite way to enjoy them is with soft-ripened cheeses like Odre, the Catalonian sheep’s milk cheese. $8.49

Fine Cheese Co. Crackers

These savory crackers are a unique range of flavored artisan crackers that are designed to partner with specific cheeses. These are perfect complements for everything from Velvety Monte Enebro to full-throttle Valdeon. 5.99 ea.

Quicos de Chocolate

Chocolate covered corn nuts dusted with cocao. Need we say more: salty, sweet, crunchy, chocolatey and totally addictive. 9.99 lb.

Matiz Torta de Aceite Sugared with Almonds

These are our favorite Torta de Aceites. Now $5.99, usually $7.99.

 

NEW WINES THIS WEEK:

2008 Casal Garcia Rose Vinho Verde ($8.99)  We love this rose! A beautiful raspberry color, it has the slight effervescence of a vinho verde with dry strawberry notes. Crisp, refreshing and lively, this is wonderful with spicy Thai food.

2008 MonteNovo Godello, Valdeorras ($12.99)   The fruity and well crafted MonteNovo is fresh off the boat from Spain, and just in time for Seattle’s white wine season! Bright, with mouth filling minerality and lush stone fruit flavors, it is dry and crisp. The D.O. Valdeorras is in Galicia which is the epicenter of the Spanish fishing industry. MonteNovo is superb with any type of shellfish.

2006 Protocolo, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla ($7.99)   Protocolo is a perennial Spanish Table customer favorite and the 2006 is a stunning bargain! The Eguren family are top winemakers who produce Sierra Cantabria wines in Rioja and until this year, Termes and Numanthia wines in Toro. Protocolo is a red table wine produced by the Egurens who have applied their top-notch winemaking skills in the land of Castilla. With warm aromas of berry, this 100% Tempranillo has a depth of vibrant black cherry flavors. Low tannins are balanced by acidity and a finish of licorice notes. Perfect for a backyard party or on a weeknight when you want a wine that won’t blow the budget.

2007 Paso A Paso Tempranillo, La Mancha ($9.99)  The 2006 vintage was a fantastic under-$10.00-wine and quickly sold out. We’ve been waiting for months for the new vintage and it’s finally arrived! With all of the balanced fruit and robust aromas of the 2006, it is “Vivid purple. Complex aromas of cherry, anise, cracked pepper and pungent herbs; not many $10.00 wines have this much going on. Rich cherry and dark berry flavors are modestly concentrated but strikingly pure, showing impressive mineral snap…” 89 points Stephen Tanzer

2007 Espelt Saulo, Emporda ($9.99)  This is a lot of wine for the price! A smoky nose with black fruit flavors, it made of 60% Grenache and 40% Carignan. “Strongly mineral aromas of vibrant cherry, blackberry, graphite and cracked pepper. Brisk and sharply focused, with racy cherry, mineral flavors and fine-grained tannins. A clean, brisk wine that offers impressive clarity and energy for the money.” 90 points Stephen Tanzer

 

RIOJA WINE DVDS:   If you’d like to learn more about Rioja wines, ask us for a free DVDs.  Our apologies if we run out (we just have a few copies) but the DVD can also be ordered for free from this link:  http://www.ciaprochef.com/rioja/  
For information about travel to Rioja, go to http://www.vibrantrioja.com/home.html

 

EVENTS THIS WEEKEND:

Flamenco: Carmona Flamenco and Guest Artist Ana Montes are performing at the Solstice Cafe on Saturday May 30 at 8:00 p.m. Doors open at 7:30 p.m. For information:(206) 932-4067 or visit http://www.fanw.org/

Pike Place Market Street Festival May 30-31: A benefit for the Market Foundation, the street will be filled with handcrafted artwork, live music, and delicious food. For more information, visit http://www.pikeplacemarketstreetfestival.com/

Have a great week, and we hope to see you soon!

 

Sincerely,

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, Owners

Spanish Table

Queso, Queijo and Cheese

Queso, Queijo and Cheese

May 14, 2009

Cheese aficionados, rejoice! This Saturday and Sunday, May 16-17, is the fifth annual Seattle Cheese Festival in the Pike Place Market. While Pike Street explodes with more than 200 cheeses from local and international producers, seminars and demonstrations, down here on Western Avenue, The Spanish Table is throwing a sensational celebration of Iberian quesos and queijos. Our resident Cheese Monger, Jorge, has scored big this year with an extraordinary line up of authentic, hand produced cow, sheep and goat milk cheeses from Spain and Portugal. Stop in, take a break from the crowds and taste our outstanding selection!

PORTUGUESE QUEIJOS

Queijo de Nisa is a raw ewe’s milk cheese. Made from the milk of Merino sheep, Nisa has a semi-soft paste with small eyes and a yellowish color. The flavor is robust when you first taste it, but then opens up into alluring hints of banana, apricots and citrusy brightness. Queijo de Nisa is versatile and complements both red and white wines.

Sao Jorge - Pound Cut From the volcanic island of the same name in Portugal’s Azores archipelago, the island is littered with giant craters and also home to naturally lush, green pastures. Still made in the traditional farmhouse way, this cheddary cheese is made from unpasteurized cow’s milk and aged for over 120 days. Its hard, natural rind gives way to a lighter colored interior with tiny, irregular holes. Sao Jorge is incredibly versatile, lending its piquant, slightly peppery undertones well to sauces. Equally delicious served cubed into a salad or eaten with a crusty baguette, it pairs perfectly with Portuguese Linguica.

Cabra Pimentão is a semi-hard pasteurized goat cheese from the Transmontana region of Portugal. Each wheel is rubbed with olive oil and smoked paprika. Cabra Pimentão starts out with a slightly granular feeling on the palate and then smoothes out with a lingering smoky finish.

SPANISH QUESOS

Malvarosa Is a farmhouse sheep cheese produced in Valencia. It is handmade and wrapped in cheese cloth. The flavors are delicate, smooth, and buttery with hints of butterscotch in the finish. This beautiful cheese is truly a labor of love: the cheese maker saved this rare species of sheep from extinction, making this an exceptional find. I recommend having on it’s own with a chilled white wine.

Cabra al Pimentón Vibrant orange, this raw goat’s milk curado has paprika permeated throughout the cheese. The surprising texture has a delicate creaminess with an even balance of acidity and salt. Hints of smoke come through on the finish with notes of rustic aromatic earth and straw.

Zamorano is our new staff favorite. This artisan production of the classic Spanish cheese is produced in Castilla Leon, in the Zamora province and this year’s batch is phenomenal! Made with milk from the Churra Ewe, it is rich, complex, full-bodied, slightly piquant, moist and tangy.

Tetilla is our second R rated cheese besides Naked Goat. This soft cheese is hand formed into an alluring shape. Springy, fresh and creamy cow’s milk cheese from Galicia, it is the pride of its’ region. This years batch is particularly soft, fresh, gooey and überlicous! A Customer favorite.

Goat Tronchon Wonderfully herbaceous, it is sweet, grassy, slightly piquant and full-flavored with a lingering tangy finish.

Raw Milk Rosemary Manchego Raw sheep milk aged 15 months with rosemary on the rind. This cheese has a strong herbal edge with a pleasant piquant bit to follow. Think herb infused Pecorino Romano. If you are a hard core rosemary fanatic try our other raw sheep’s milk cheese with infused with rosemary in the cheese.

Artequeso 1 Year Raw Milk Manchego The Grand Daddy of Manchegos! Okay. Everyone knows about Manchego so why mention it? Because Artequeso is other worldly and one of the best cheeses in the case. Dry, slightly powdery, and textured with nutty, parmesan-like complexities, it hits you in the jowls like a big bold spicy wine with a complex lingering finish. This is what Manchego used to be 100 years ago. Be sure to taste it when you come in. Queso Leonora is an exceptional goat cheese from a small producer in Leon. This brick shaped, natural mold rind cheese envelops a compact white interior. Dry textured and full-bodied with herbaceous and lemon flavors, it has the perfect balance of acidity. Soft-ripened and spreadable, tangy and distinctive, this unique goat cheese leaves a lasting impression.

Petit Odre is from the village of Vilasar del Dalt near Barcelona. Made from sheep’s milk, it resembles a plump mini Brie. The interior is creamy at the edges, becoming firmer at the center. Odre has a full, rich, and buttery flavor with herbal notes and a sweet finish. Think slightly chalky sheep camembert! Odre is from the same cheese maker as Nevat. – Jorge

NEW PRODUCTS

Pate de Campagne with Black Pepper A traditional recipe with origins in the French countryside, this county-style pate is thick, coarsely-textured treasure seasoned with piquant black pepper. The uneven, super spreadable paste is created using seasoning and fats, added to bring out the flavor in meats.

Rabbit Sausage with Prunes Made with rabbit and pork flavored with prunes and brandy, this phenomenal sausage is best grilled. Mildly spiced, serve it with fresh garden greens for a light meal.

Dried Peruvian Aji Panka Chilie Pods Reconstitute these chilies and add to soups,sauces, and other dishes. Or take the tops off and grind them into chili powder as part of your own spice blend. Aji Pancas are a great way to add mild, fruity chile flavor to any dish. fruity chile flavor to your Mexican dishes.

WINE AND CHEESE PAIRINGS

Queijo de Nisa’s robust and fruity notes are a great match with the 2005 Conde de Vimioso, Ribatejano ($9.99). Vimioso is fruity, rich and youthful with flavors of raspberry and currants and a lingering finish. Pair Sao Jorge with the hearty 2005 Vega Escal Priorat ($19.99). Vega Escal is powerfully concentrated with “ripe cherry and blackberry, and smoky minerals. Graceful and edge-free.” 90 points Stephen Tanzer

Serve Cabra Pimentão with oaky 2007 Clos de los Siete, Mendoza ($18.99) “There may be no finer red wine value in Argentina than this superb blend of 48% Malbec, 28% Merlot, 12% Syrah, and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon…. This lengthy effort over-delivers and then some.” 91 points Jay Miller

Malvarosa’s delicate flavors are spectacular served with 2007 Avinyo Vi D’Agulla (Penedes) $14.99. The ‘wine with a prickle’ is a light bodied white wine with a refreshing slightly frizzante character.

Pour the 1999 Rioja Bordon Gran Reserva Rioja ($22.99) with smoky and piquant Cabra al Pimenton. Rioja Bordon Gran Reserva is a classical Rioja, with notes of oak, cigar box, cedar, plum and cherry flavors. Moderate tannins are balanced with acidity and pair wonderfully with this cheese.

Zamorano cheese is stellar matched with a wine from it’s own region such as the 2006 M.O. de Olivara, Toro ($12.99). Concentrated, bold and spicy, this Tinto de Toro is produced from 40-100 year old vines. M.O. is meaty, explosive and earthy with notes of mineral and black fruit flavors.

Mild Tetilla is outstanding when paired with a delicate white wine such as the 2007 Can Vendrell Chardonnay Xarel-lo, Penedes ($13.99). Unoaked and crisp, Can Vendrell has a floral nose with notes of stone fruit and dry pear. The dry, refreshing finish has nuances of almond and mineral which are fantastic with Tetilla’s gooey deliciousness.

Full flavored Goat Tronchon needs a full bodied red such as the 2007 Luzon from Jumilla ($9.99). A blend of Monastrell and Syrah, it “delivers huge plum and spice notes, with tobacco, herbs and smoked meat working their way into the game. Remains powerfully fruity and spicy in the mouth… Overdelivers by a lot!” 90 points Wine Enthusiast, #1 Best Buy for 2008

Serve earthy 2003 Las Gravas, Jumilla ($23.99) with Rosemary Manchego. Las Gravas “offers lovely floral, crème de cassis, smoke, charcoal and earthy characteristics in its rich, full-bodied, powerful personality…” 90 points Robert Parker

A natural match to Artequeso Manchego is the structured and well-knit 2005 Pinuaga Tempranillo. “Medium to full bodied, firmly structured, reticent with outstanding potential.” 90 points Robert Parker This is one of my favorite Tempranillos!

Pair lean and steely white 2007 Vina Reboreda, Ribeira ($11.99) with herbaceous and tangy Queso Leonora. Vina Reboreda’s aromas of dried flowers with bright flavors of Granny Smith apple, citrus and watermelon are balanced by vibrant acidity and minerals which cleanse the palate between each bite of Queso Leonora.

An elegant cava such as the Vins El Cep 2003 Marques de Gelida Brut Exclusive Reserva, Penedes ($12.99) is a wonderful accompaniment to creamy Petit Odre. Last week, the charming winemaker of Vins El Cep was in Seattle for the Jorge Ordonez portfolio tasting. A combination of six families who have been winemakers and growers in Penedes since the 15th Century, Vins El Cep cavas are made exclusively from estate grown fruit. 2003 Marques de Gelida Brut Exclusive has been aged 36 months on the lees and made in the traditional champagne method. With fruity stone fruit and citrus notes, it has an excellent sweet-acidic balance and a lengthy mineral finish which compliments the buttery and chalky flavors of Petit Odre.

EVENTS CALENDAR

The Spain Association of the Pacific Northwest is celebrating Fiesta de San Isidro on May 24 at 1:00 p.m. at the Aqua Club in Kenmore. Non members are welcome. For more information, visit

http://www.spainassociation.org

Spanish Winemaker dinner at Olivar Restaurant, May 28th. Casa Ventura Imports present winemaker Javier Fernandez Sanzaq from Bodegas Los Aljibes for a Spanish Wine Dinner May 28th. $70.00 per person. For more details and reservations, contact Olivar (206) 322- 0409 or visit http://www.olivarrestaurant.com.

Cape Verdean chanteuse Maria de Barros and her band will be here one night only for a CD release party on May 28th at the Triple Door. Maria will be performing songs form her highly anticipated album Morabeza, a blend of mornas, coladeras and funana – the mesmerizing genres from Cape Verde. Tickets are available from the Triple Door box office and online: http://www.tripledoor.com. Maria says bring your dancing shoes!

We hope to see you soon and in the meantime, light the barbeque and cook a paella this weekend!

Sincerely,

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston

Owners, Spanish Table