Visit to Vega Sicilia

Visit to Vega Sicilia

June 25, 2009

 

We got home last Friday night after visiting fourteen Spanish wineries in twelve days. Twelve long hedonistic days of a no-holds-barred food and wine tasting extravaganza. Exactly my kind of travel. Now home, our cleansing diet of salad and water is already wearing thin…

Stay tuned for the next few weeks, because there’s a ton of great news from our trip. We visited Bodegas Jose Pariente and Martinsancho in Rueda; Emilio Moro, Bodegas Mauro, Bodegas Conde and Protos in Ribera del Duero. We spent the last 4 days in Rioja visiting Bodegas Muga, La Rioja Alta, R. Lopez de Heredia, Bodegas Ramon Ayala e Hijos, Remelluri, Bodegas Contino and Vinedos Sierra Cantabria.

I will never forget driving into the legendary estate of Bodegas Vega Sicilia. Established in 1864 when 18000 vine shoots from Bordeaux were planted here, they have been producing one of the world’s best and most mythical wines since 1915. No expense is spared in the pursuit of perfection, from the immaculate fermentation rooms, new French oak barrels which are replaced every year, down to the best available corks which are laboratory tested before using. Its 15000 kilo French oak fermentation vats are replaced every 5 years by a crew which is brought from Bordeaux. There is no resale market for the used vats so they are made into wooden boxes for the wines. The manicured grounds buzz with prosperity and quiet confidence.

Vega’s vineyard contains 19 different soils, four grape varieties and plots with varied microclimates. They continue to innovate. A new facility soon to open will house 64 fermentation vats, allowing micro vinification with each vat mirroring the vineyard plot.

 

The wines of Vega Sicilia

Three wines are made on Vega Sicilia’s estate in Ribera del Duero. Unico, only produced in great years, is typically made from 85% Tempranillo and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Unico is aged for 7 years in a combination of large oak vats and small French barrels. It can be cellared for up to 50 years. Valbuena is made each year from Tempranillo, Malbec and Merlot and can be cellared for 25 years. Reserva Especial NV is a blend of three vintages, produced in very limited quantities.

2001 Vega Sicilia Tinto Valbuena ($176.00) Unico was not made in 2001, so the best Tempranillo grapes were put into Valbuena. “Wonderfully perfumed, sharply delineated aromas of fresh red berries, cherry, rhubarb, roasted coffee and vanillin oak. Supple, lush and sweet, with medium to full body, a complex array of red and dark fruit flavours, exotic spice accents and fine-grained but firm, youthful tannins.” 92 points Stephen Tanzer, 93 points Robert Parker

1996 Vega Sicilia Unico ($366.00) Vega Sicilia is characterized by unbelievable finesse, silky tannins, black fruit, structure and balance. “Complex, heady bouquet of kirsch, candied plum, cured tobacco, licorice, dried rose and cedar. Pungent herbal notes build with aeration and repeat on the palate, adding complexity to the deep, ripe cherry and dark berry liqueur flavors. Remarkably elegant wine with precise cherry/berry flavors and a slow-mounting mocha quality on the long, sappy finish. There’s a very impressive interplay of fruit and tannins here.” 94 points Stephen Tanzer, 93 points Wine Spectator

1998 Vega Sicilia Unico ($400.00) ” Exotic aromas of red and dark fruits, iron, dried flowers, cured meat and tobacco are strongly reminiscent of a top vintage of Chateau Haut-Brion. Luscious cherry and cassis flavors display a superb balance of depth and structure, offering noteworthy power but a weightless quality that is simply uncanny. Candied flowers, smoky minerals and vanilla bean add complexity and extend through an endless finish. I’d love to sneak this into a tasting of 1998 Saint-Emilion and Graves wines in ten years or so.” 96 points Stephen Tanzer, 98 points Robert Parker

2003 Pintia, Toro ($50.00) Made from 100% Tinto de Toro, this is from Vega Sicilia’s estate in Toro. The first vintage was 2001. ” The 2003 Pintia (100% Tinta de Toro aka Tempranillo) is a powerful, opaque purple effort that spent 12 months in new French oak. The expressive nose offers toast, vanilla, charcoal, and blue and black fruits which jump from the glass. There is a boatload of tannin but more than enough fruit for balance. Currently the 2003 is tight, firm, and a bit austere but a few years of bottle age should bring things into harmony.” 92 points Wine Advocate

 

NEW PRODUCTS

Pulque La Lucha- Frieda Kahlo’s drink of choice!

Framani brand Salametto Piccante chorizo: Brick-red in color and seasoned with pimenton de la Vera. Piquant and slightly smoky. About 12 inches long, 3/4 pound. Slice in 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick pieces.

Zoe Meats Chorizo, Locally Made, No Nitrates: We sold out of our first order in 4 days and quickly reordered. A favorite of local chefs, Spanish Table customers and staff! Rich red texture, smoky, earthy, sweet and tangy. Perfect for tapas, paella and Bocadillos.

Our Favorite Queso Reggianito is finally back in stock! $9.99/lb

Garrotxa Bauma is a special young Artisanal Garrotxa from Catalonia. This particular Garrotxa is exceptional with nuances of nuts and flowers and hints of thyme and rosemary. The texture is smooth and velvety with a long grassy finish.

Vallee d’ Aspe is a wonderfully earthy raw milk sheep and cow’s milk cheese from the Pyrenees. This mature Basque region artisanal cheese has well balanced hay tones with a vibrant tanginess.

Bottarga is the salted and dried roe of gray mullet and tastes of iodine and light fermentation. It is a flavor agent that plays off other ingredients, great on summer salads, pastas, or beans. “Try it sprinkled over fresh oysters.” Eric Stone

On sale

Matiz Fig cake ($7.99). A perfect complement with sheep milks cheese.

Veigadarte, now $22.99/lb. The soft ripened tangy goat cheese from Leon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  Fermentation vats at Bodegas Alion

2002 Alion, Ribera del Duero ($48.00 special price!) One wine is produced at Vega’s separate estate, Bodegas Alion. 1991 was the first vintage of this Bordeaux-style modern wine made from 100% Tempranillo. Half of the grapes come from the Vega Sicilia estate; the other half from Alion vineyards. “While 2002 was a lesser vintage, you would never know it from tasting the 2002 Alion, Saturated purple in color, it offers up an exotic nose of coconut, espresso, herbs, black currants and cherries. Rich and complex on the palate with lots of glycerine and layers of black fruit flavours, it has a pure, long finish that goes on and on.” 94 points Wine Advocate

2004 Alion, Ribera del Duero ($82.00) “The 2004 Alion is inky purple-colored with an alluring perfume of toasty oak, lavender, violets, mineral, blackberry, and blueberry compote. This is followed by a full-bodied, rich, opulent, wine with incipient complexity, and notes of licorice, mocha, and espresso emerging on the palate. The lengthy finish is pure and persistent. Give it 3-5 years in the cellar and drink it through 2025.” 96 points Wine Advocate

 

Last call for Padron Pepper plants! We’re waiting for the crop in Oregon to get ripe so that we can offer these tasty peppers. In the meantime, we’re harvesting padron peppers from our own plants, thanks to the warm June weather. We’ve still got a few plants left. $4.99 each.

Stop in soon and we’ll give you some travel tips for Ribera del Duero and Rioja.

Sincerely,

 

Sharon Baden & Steve Winston, Owners

Spanish Table

Holiday Feasting in Portland

April 16, 2009

The buzz about Portland’s diverse restaurant scene got us on the road Sunday morning with our California partners Andy and Tanya. Our first stop was lunch at Andina in the Pearl District (http://www.andinarestaurant.com). After sharing piquillo peppers stuffed with quinoa and jamon serrano, tender octopus kebabs, and fresh lime infused fish ceviche, we understand why it gets rave reviews. A few hours later we stopped at Toro Bravo (http://www.torobravopdx.com) for a pre-dinner sherry and couldn’t leave without trying the manchego cheese marinated in rose petal harissa and mint, sherry chicken liver mousse, and the oxtail croquettes. What astonishing flavor combinations! We would have stayed all night but we had dinner reservations at Le Pigeon (http://www.lepigeon.com), a tiny bistro with communal tables which is always full. The seasonal menu was loaded with meat-centric dishes that blew us away.  My fried rabbit was more rabbit confit, ultra-tender with meat falling off the bone. We had duck breast and beef cheeks and an amazing finale of cornbread, maple syrup and bacon. Everything was fantastic! We’ll go back to these places very, very soon.

Instant Tapa:  Start with a slice of Aegean Gourmet Golden Toast ($1.99/11.6 oz), add a layer of Greenland Buffalo Feta cheese ($3.99/500 grams) and top with Napoleon Grilled Artichoke Halves ($3.85/7.5 oz).  Serve at room temperature.

New Meats

Chorizo Leon ($11.99, appx ¾ lb): Take one bite of this intensely flavored soft-cured sausage and you’ll think you’re in Spain. Its distinctive flavor comes from a mixture of garlic with the smoked paprikas from Pimenton de la Vera. Serve sliced at room temperature on a charcuterie plate.

Asturian Fabada Stew Kit ($23.99/appx 2 lbs): Our cold and rainy Easter weather got me hankering for stew. A comfort food fanatic, nothing warms me on a chilly night like a hearty serving of Fabada, the signature dish of Asturias. Traditionally made with a special bean called “fabe” grown in this region, this sausage and bean dish is absolutely satisfying. Our Asturian Fabada Stew Kit includes Chorizo Bilbao, Morcilla de Cebolla (blood sausage with onion), Tocino (bacon with rind) and Jamon Serrano (dry cured ham). We also have a limited supply of the authentic “Fabe” Fabada bean ($35.00/kg), which is prized for its ability to hold shape after a long simmer.

For a Fabada recipe, click this link: http://www.spain-recipes.com/fabada-asturiana.html

Soujouk ($9.99/1.2 lb): We discovered this dried beef sausage in Turkey, where it was sliced over a dish of hummus and warmed, then served as a tasty appetizer.

Basturma or Pastirma ($12.99/12 oz): Racks of hanging beef loin rubbed with a heavy marinade of paprika, fenugreek and chili line the market streets of Kayseri, Turkey. This popular spiced beef is sliced thin and eaten on bread, or it can be sauteed and eaten with everything from eggs or wrapped in phyllo dough and baked.

 

FISH PRODUCTS

Squid ink ($.99/4 gram plastic or $19.99/200 gr jar): Not a new product for us, but we’ve been getting a lot of calls for it lately.   The essential ingredient in black rice or squid in its own ink.  Now available in a 200 gr jar as well as the familiar plastic packets.  
Filetes de Boqueron: ($8.99/appx 6 oz) Another item that is frequently asked for.  These fresh white anchovies are marinated in oil and vinegar, with garlic and parsley. We had these one night at Txori on top of crostini with black olive tapenade. The briny fish and rich olive flavors were fantastic together!   Also great on caesar salad.

 

 

WHITE WINE 

2007 Grinalda Reserva Vinho Verde, Portugal ($14.99) Produced by Vinho Verde maker Aveleda, Grinalda represents the perfect combination of tradition and innovation. The grapes are fermented at low temperature with selected yeasts in an effort to preserve the naturally fresh character. Unlike many vinho verde wines, carbon dioxide has not been added to Grinalda; it reflects the intense aromas of the Loureiro grape, the elegance and softness of Trajadura and the persistent finish of Alvarinho. It’s aromas of tropical fruits and flowers, flavors of fresh stone fruit with notes of citrus and a zippy acidity provide a clean and bracing palate. Excellent with shellfish.

2007 Porrais Douro ($16.99) Produced from a 28 hectare vineyard which is over 60 years old, with shale and schist soils at an altitude of 600 meters, this white wine is a knockout! Made of 60% Rabigato and 40% Codega do Larinho, it is steely and lean. With citrus and green apple flavors, abundant minerality and moderate tannins, it is crisp, delicate and delicious.

WINE VALUES:    To ease the pain of tax season, we’ve added to our stock of over 50 wines under $10.00. Amazing wines from Spain and Portugal arrive weekly and continue to be the best value on the planet!

2007 Mesta Tempranillo, Tierra de Castilla ($7.99): Named for gatherings of sheep herders organized to sort stray sheep (mestencos) from their flock, Mesta is 100% Tempranillo, the wine traditionally served with lamb. The grapes are grown at 2500 feet elevation, and it has great balance and food-pairing acidity. Aged in stainless steel, this is a young wine with a fruit driven nose full of enticing aromas of ripe red berries. On the palate, it has chewy and firm tannins with a hint of pepper and a persistent finish. Serve this at your next backyard barbeque!
2008 Famega Rose, Portugal ($7.99) Our first 2008 rose has arrived! With all the promise of a seedling poking up its first shoots, the new rose season brings hope of salad days to come. 2008 Famega is loaded with fresh strawberry flavor, a hint of effervescence and a feeling of summer. Sip it chilled on the deck on a sunny day!
2007 Carlos Bassos Dos Fincas Cabernet Sauvignon – Merlot, Mendoza ($9.99) Aged lightly in oak for 4 months, Dos Fincas is a blend of two different vineyards and microclimates. Made of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot, its jammy berry aromas and plump black berry flavors shine through. Solid and flush throughout, it has surprising softness. Excellent with grilled pork chops.
2005 Conde de Vimioso, Ribatejano ($9.99) Winemaker Joao Portugal Ramos has been the most influential wine consultant in Southern Portugal over the last 15 years. His philosophy of low yields, preserving fruit flavors and occasional oak aging with modern winemaking techniques have made him a superstar. His 2005 Conde de Vimioso combines aromatic, dark fruit flavors of Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira blended beautifully with the bold spices of Tempranillo and well-integrated tannins of Cabernet. The palate is rich and youthful, showing raspberry and currant fruit with hints of white pepper, espresso bean and dark chocolate on the lingering finish.
NV Quinta de la Rosa’s Finest Reserve Port, Douro ($11.99/375 ml, $19.99/750 ml) “is a stunning example of what can be achieved and found in non-vintage port blends. This small port lodge has turned out a terrific, full-bodied, garnet/ruby-colored wine with a big, chocolatey, black-cherry, cedary nose, full-bodied, unctuously-textured flavors, and gobs of fruit and richness, as well as an off-dry, impressive finish. Drink it over the next decade or more.” 92 points Robert Parker

We hope to see you soon and have a great week!  

Best regards, 

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, owners
The Spanish Table Inc.