Visit to Vega Sicilia

Visit to Vega Sicilia

June 25, 2009

 

We got home last Friday night after visiting fourteen Spanish wineries in twelve days. Twelve long hedonistic days of a no-holds-barred food and wine tasting extravaganza. Exactly my kind of travel. Now home, our cleansing diet of salad and water is already wearing thin…

Stay tuned for the next few weeks, because there’s a ton of great news from our trip. We visited Bodegas Jose Pariente and Martinsancho in Rueda; Emilio Moro, Bodegas Mauro, Bodegas Conde and Protos in Ribera del Duero. We spent the last 4 days in Rioja visiting Bodegas Muga, La Rioja Alta, R. Lopez de Heredia, Bodegas Ramon Ayala e Hijos, Remelluri, Bodegas Contino and Vinedos Sierra Cantabria.

I will never forget driving into the legendary estate of Bodegas Vega Sicilia. Established in 1864 when 18000 vine shoots from Bordeaux were planted here, they have been producing one of the world’s best and most mythical wines since 1915. No expense is spared in the pursuit of perfection, from the immaculate fermentation rooms, new French oak barrels which are replaced every year, down to the best available corks which are laboratory tested before using. Its 15000 kilo French oak fermentation vats are replaced every 5 years by a crew which is brought from Bordeaux. There is no resale market for the used vats so they are made into wooden boxes for the wines. The manicured grounds buzz with prosperity and quiet confidence.

Vega’s vineyard contains 19 different soils, four grape varieties and plots with varied microclimates. They continue to innovate. A new facility soon to open will house 64 fermentation vats, allowing micro vinification with each vat mirroring the vineyard plot.

 

The wines of Vega Sicilia

Three wines are made on Vega Sicilia’s estate in Ribera del Duero. Unico, only produced in great years, is typically made from 85% Tempranillo and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Unico is aged for 7 years in a combination of large oak vats and small French barrels. It can be cellared for up to 50 years. Valbuena is made each year from Tempranillo, Malbec and Merlot and can be cellared for 25 years. Reserva Especial NV is a blend of three vintages, produced in very limited quantities.

2001 Vega Sicilia Tinto Valbuena ($176.00) Unico was not made in 2001, so the best Tempranillo grapes were put into Valbuena. “Wonderfully perfumed, sharply delineated aromas of fresh red berries, cherry, rhubarb, roasted coffee and vanillin oak. Supple, lush and sweet, with medium to full body, a complex array of red and dark fruit flavours, exotic spice accents and fine-grained but firm, youthful tannins.” 92 points Stephen Tanzer, 93 points Robert Parker

1996 Vega Sicilia Unico ($366.00) Vega Sicilia is characterized by unbelievable finesse, silky tannins, black fruit, structure and balance. “Complex, heady bouquet of kirsch, candied plum, cured tobacco, licorice, dried rose and cedar. Pungent herbal notes build with aeration and repeat on the palate, adding complexity to the deep, ripe cherry and dark berry liqueur flavors. Remarkably elegant wine with precise cherry/berry flavors and a slow-mounting mocha quality on the long, sappy finish. There’s a very impressive interplay of fruit and tannins here.” 94 points Stephen Tanzer, 93 points Wine Spectator

1998 Vega Sicilia Unico ($400.00) ” Exotic aromas of red and dark fruits, iron, dried flowers, cured meat and tobacco are strongly reminiscent of a top vintage of Chateau Haut-Brion. Luscious cherry and cassis flavors display a superb balance of depth and structure, offering noteworthy power but a weightless quality that is simply uncanny. Candied flowers, smoky minerals and vanilla bean add complexity and extend through an endless finish. I’d love to sneak this into a tasting of 1998 Saint-Emilion and Graves wines in ten years or so.” 96 points Stephen Tanzer, 98 points Robert Parker

2003 Pintia, Toro ($50.00) Made from 100% Tinto de Toro, this is from Vega Sicilia’s estate in Toro. The first vintage was 2001. ” The 2003 Pintia (100% Tinta de Toro aka Tempranillo) is a powerful, opaque purple effort that spent 12 months in new French oak. The expressive nose offers toast, vanilla, charcoal, and blue and black fruits which jump from the glass. There is a boatload of tannin but more than enough fruit for balance. Currently the 2003 is tight, firm, and a bit austere but a few years of bottle age should bring things into harmony.” 92 points Wine Advocate

 

NEW PRODUCTS

Pulque La Lucha- Frieda Kahlo’s drink of choice!

Framani brand Salametto Piccante chorizo: Brick-red in color and seasoned with pimenton de la Vera. Piquant and slightly smoky. About 12 inches long, 3/4 pound. Slice in 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick pieces.

Zoe Meats Chorizo, Locally Made, No Nitrates: We sold out of our first order in 4 days and quickly reordered. A favorite of local chefs, Spanish Table customers and staff! Rich red texture, smoky, earthy, sweet and tangy. Perfect for tapas, paella and Bocadillos.

Our Favorite Queso Reggianito is finally back in stock! $9.99/lb

Garrotxa Bauma is a special young Artisanal Garrotxa from Catalonia. This particular Garrotxa is exceptional with nuances of nuts and flowers and hints of thyme and rosemary. The texture is smooth and velvety with a long grassy finish.

Vallee d’ Aspe is a wonderfully earthy raw milk sheep and cow’s milk cheese from the Pyrenees. This mature Basque region artisanal cheese has well balanced hay tones with a vibrant tanginess.

Bottarga is the salted and dried roe of gray mullet and tastes of iodine and light fermentation. It is a flavor agent that plays off other ingredients, great on summer salads, pastas, or beans. “Try it sprinkled over fresh oysters.” Eric Stone

On sale

Matiz Fig cake ($7.99). A perfect complement with sheep milks cheese.

Veigadarte, now $22.99/lb. The soft ripened tangy goat cheese from Leon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  Fermentation vats at Bodegas Alion

2002 Alion, Ribera del Duero ($48.00 special price!) One wine is produced at Vega’s separate estate, Bodegas Alion. 1991 was the first vintage of this Bordeaux-style modern wine made from 100% Tempranillo. Half of the grapes come from the Vega Sicilia estate; the other half from Alion vineyards. “While 2002 was a lesser vintage, you would never know it from tasting the 2002 Alion, Saturated purple in color, it offers up an exotic nose of coconut, espresso, herbs, black currants and cherries. Rich and complex on the palate with lots of glycerine and layers of black fruit flavours, it has a pure, long finish that goes on and on.” 94 points Wine Advocate

2004 Alion, Ribera del Duero ($82.00) “The 2004 Alion is inky purple-colored with an alluring perfume of toasty oak, lavender, violets, mineral, blackberry, and blueberry compote. This is followed by a full-bodied, rich, opulent, wine with incipient complexity, and notes of licorice, mocha, and espresso emerging on the palate. The lengthy finish is pure and persistent. Give it 3-5 years in the cellar and drink it through 2025.” 96 points Wine Advocate

 

Last call for Padron Pepper plants! We’re waiting for the crop in Oregon to get ripe so that we can offer these tasty peppers. In the meantime, we’re harvesting padron peppers from our own plants, thanks to the warm June weather. We’ve still got a few plants left. $4.99 each.

Stop in soon and we’ll give you some travel tips for Ribera del Duero and Rioja.

Sincerely,

 

Sharon Baden & Steve Winston, Owners

Spanish Table

Celebration Season

 

 

Celebration Season

 

June 5, 2009

Congratulations to Classical Wines of Spain who celebrated their 25th anniversary this week. One of the pioneer importers of quality Spanish wines, their portfolio is a personal roadmap of what’s happened in Spanish winemaking over the last 25 years. A full day of seminars with winemakers and a tasting showed just how much they continue to push boundaries. Their long relationships with top winemakers such as Alejandro Fernandez of Pesquera continue, while they source exciting new producers that are delivering terrunyo-driven, authentic wines. Here’s to your future success!

June is the month of graduation celebrations, the beginning of summer wedding season and long days meant for picnics in the park. All of these occasions cry out for good food and wine which we’re here to provide! The secret is to keep it simple, like last night’s simple lentil salad tossed with sherry vinegar, olive oil and fresh arugula. With a chilled glass of 2008 Montecastrillo rose, it was the perfect picnic meal.

On a personal celebratory note, we’ll be toasting my birthday in Spain next week. Our itinerary takes us through the wine regions of Rueda, Ribera del Duero and Rioja with a beach weekend in San Sebastian. We’ll try to send updates from the road….

 

Steven’s Black Cod with Piquillos and PX is a quick weeknight dinner.  (Serves 3)
1 ½ lb black cod
4 piquillo peppers, sliced into strips
½ sweet onion, sliced
3 tbsp olive oil (I used Majoub Tunisian)
 
For the marinade:
1/3 cup Pedro Ximenez Sherry (Don PX 2004)
1/3 cup sherry vinegar (I used Majuelo)
1 tbsp grapefruit marmalade (Majoub Tunisian)
 
Put the cod on 2 layers of aluminum foil, cover with peppers and onions, and drizzle with olive oil.  Whisk together the marinade in a small bowl, adjusting the balance if necessary: it should be slightly more sweet than tangy.  Drizzle over the cod, reserving half.  If using a barbeque, adjust the grill to highest position, farther away from the coals.  Wrap up the cod, and place on the grill, turning after 5 minutes.  After 5 minutes on each side, open the foil, and drizzle with the remaining marinade. Close the lid and cook for an additional 5 minutes or until the cod is just falling apart. Serve with 2007 Lagar do Castelo albarino.  

Some favorite wines from Classical Wines of Spain:
2008 Martinsancho, Rueda ($16.99) Grapefruit meets yellow and green apple in this crisp white.   The vibrant fruit flavors are complimented by vibrant acidity and a long, smooth finish.
2007 Vina Reboreda, Ribeiro ($11.99)  With a steely backbone, Vina Reboreda offers up flavors of Granny Smith apple and watermelon.   Lean and savory, it is stupendous with steamed clams or mussels.
 2006 Altico “A”, Jumilla ($18.99) From Producer Bodegas Carchelo, Altico is a full bodied 100% Syrah.  “Primary blackberry and blueberry aromas are youthfully unevolved, opening slowly to display subtle graphite and baking spice qualities. Midweight black and blue fruit flavors are strikingly pure, with fine-grained tannins lending support. The sweet fruit lingers impressively on the long, sappy finish, which becomes spicier with air. This is delicious.”   90 points Stephen Tanzer
2005 Montecastro, Ribera del Duero ($47.00)  Powerful and structured, with velvety layers of black fruit, mineral, structured tannins, all balanced with acidity and an amazing persistent finish.   “This rich, expressive red delivers ripe, almost sweet, black currant and blackberry fruit. It has muscular tannins, but there’s enough acidity for balance, as well as a vibrant floral and spice finish.”  93 points Wine Spectator

NEW VINTAGE OF MUGA IS HERE:

It’s an exciting day when the new vintage of Muga Rioja rolls in the door!   Voted the most popular wine from Rioja, it’s definitely a customer favorite.  Even better, lower costs and a better exchange rate have made Muga less expensive this year.
2008 Muga Rioja Blanco Barrel Fermented ($14.99)  Made of 90% viura and 10% malvasia, Muga’s double grape checking, both on selection belt and on tasting the musts, means that 50% of the harvest is excluded. Slow fermentation in new French oak and 3 months on fine lees are the secrets of this careful production process. Aromas of citrus fruit and apple stand out against a background of aromatic herbs such as lavender, thyme and even fennel. There are also aromas derived from its cask fermentation, such as coconut and vanilla. In the mouth, intensity and persistence, while at the same time it remains fresh and lively.
2008 Muga Rioja Rosado ($11.99) Made of 60% Garnacha, 30% Viura and 10% Tempranillo, this is one of our all time favorite rosados.   Salmon colored, light bodied, dry and fresh with flavors of ripe red berry, it is backed by crisp acidity and a honeyed finish.  Great with any seafood, paella, or pork dish.
 2005 Muga Reserva Rioja ($25.99) 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo and Graciano, the reserva has been aged six months in traditional Rioja vats, 24 months in small oak barrels and 12 months in bottle.  Concentrated black fruit and red berry flavors have nuances of coffee.  With notes of cedar and charred oak, it is balanced on the palate with a delicious and persistent finish.  Bodegas Muga feels that 2001 and 2005 are their best vintages, as they approach the style of a Bordeaux Pomeral while reflecting the unique terrunyo of the vineyard.2001 Prado Enea Gran Reserva ($57.00) From the stellar 2001 vintage, produced from 50 year old vines, the 2001 Prado Enea is 80% Tempranillo and 20% Mazuelo, Graciano and Garnacha.  On the nose, aromas of spice and chocolate, wrapped in fruit liqueur.   Balanced and elegant, it is smooth with a long and honest finish.   This is one of the best Prado Eneas produced in recent vintages.

New Foods

Ferrer brand Gazpacho: Arrived today! We now have the familiar red, and the lesser known but no less delicious, white. White gazpacho is made from garlic and almonds.

Fresh (unpasteurized) Luques Olives: These French green olives are meaty and sweet, not soft, salty, or mushy like some olives can be. The green flesh is firm and bright, fruity and crisp.

Dried Black Mission Figs: Soft, ripe and fleshy figs from California.

Dried Cherry: Add a new flavor to your summer salads or try them with broiled pork chops. Plump the cherries with warm bourbon and vermouth and dress the chops. Make a nice sauce by reducing your cherry flavored booze and swirling in some butter.

Three New Fig Spreads: Mittica fig spread with Lemon Flower Honey from Valencia. Mt. Vikos Hazel Nut Fig Spread from Greece. Last but not least, I can’t resist Fig and Cocoa spread. Made with figs, pure cane sugar and cocoa. Warm it and pour over ice cream.

Mittica Homemade Membrillo: Artisanally produced, my favorite way to serve membrillo is by sandwiching it between two triangles of the 1 year raw milk manchego cheese and warming it in the oven for a minute.

Mittica Chestnut Honey in Ceramic Crock: This raw chestnut honey is from the mountains of Asturias and is beautifully packaged in a clay crock. Dark in color with intense aromas and flavor. Try pouring this over a gooey piece of Queso Leonora goat cheese.

Padron Pepper Plants: Our last 14 plants are ready to go in the ground. Plant them now and harvest in July! $4.99 each, 16 plants available.

Planning a party or wedding?  Our wine department has something to fit every event, from budget to collector wines.  We offer a 10% discount on a case of 12 wines.  For easy tapas ingredients, pick up a selection of cured meats and cheeses, or for more involved recipes, we stock hard to find ingredients like harissa and preserved lemons.  Gifts:  For someone setting up a new household, this is the place to get them something useful yet “special” such as a beautiful hand-decorated ceramic bowl and an olivewood salad-serving set. For the cook, a set of cazuelas and a really fabulous cookbook. And for anyone, a big glass pitcher.   Everyone can use a pitcher. I’m a fan of our fruit-embossed Marbella pitcher – perfect for sangria, lemonade, whatever. And it’s made of recycled bottle glass, yet another plus!

Spain Association Paella Contest June 21.   Sponsored by Taberna del Alabardero, the contest is open to anyone who wishes to cook, or just watch and eat.   Prizes awarded for the top three paellas.   For more information, visit http://www.spainassociation.org/

Have a great week and please stop in soon and see us at the shop!   Sincerely,   Sharon Baden & Steve Winston, Owners Spanish Table

Cock A Doodle Doo

April 23, 2009

Food writer Nancy Leson’s blog has released a flock of calls and emails here at the shop.   What’s all the twittering about?  California wine producer E.J. Gallo has filed a lawsuit against the Spanish Table for selling “Gallo” brand fideua pasta, produced in Barcelona.  “Gallo” means rooster in Spanish and icons of the bird are seen all over the Iberian peninsula.  Sadly, we can’t afford the fight to sell our favorite brand of pasta, so we’ve found a replacement brand of noodle.   Stop in and get one of these Gallo collector items before they sell out!    To read Nancy Leson’s blog:  http://blog.seattletimes.nwsource.com/allyoucaneat/2009/04/20/gallo_crows_well_sue_you_spani.html To watch the King 5 TV report: http://www.king5.com/business/stories/NW_042109WAB-winery-gallo-KC.fb370cdf.html

Fideau, or fideo, is a dish made in a paella pan with short pasta noodles, garlic, broth and whatever else you’ve got on hand.    To use those Spanish noodles, try this recipe from The Spanish Table Cookbook:
Fideo Pasta with Seafood in Oloroso Cream Sauce (serves 4)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon garlic, finely chopped
1 pound salmon, or a 1 pound mixture of shrimp meat and crab
½ cup dry Oloroso sherry
3 cups clam juice or water
½ pound fideo pasta
1 cup half-and-half
1 tablespoon minced parsley
Heat oil in a 12-inch or larger paella pan and cook the pasta until it turns golden.   Remove pasta from pan, reserving the oil.  Add garlic to pan and cook until soft.  Add the seafood and saute for 1 minute on each side.   Add the sherry and clam juice, then bring to a boil.
Add the pasta and return to a boil. Reduce the heat and cook until the pasta has absorbed the liquid and is al dente, about 8-10 minutes.  Add the half-and-half and parsley and cook until incorporated.    This is even better with a bowl of alioli (garlic mayonnaise) served on the side.
“When fideua is outlawed; only outlaws will have fideua.” Steve Winston

COLLECTOR’S CORNER On Easter weekend, we opened and drank a bottle of 1968 Vina Bosconia Rioja.  In 1968, when the grapes used to make this wine were growing, I was stationed at U.S. 6th Army headquarters in San Francisco.  Recovering from the wounds I received in the infantry (173 Airborne Brigade) in Vietnam, I was drinking, ironically, Gallo Hearty Burgandy by the jug.  My palate has matured since then.   If you are old enough to remember 1968, we have one bottle available of 1968 Vina Tondonia Rioja ($327.00).   Steve Winston

CHEESE CORNER Pata Cabra is a unique goat’s milk cheese is from Zaragoza, made in a brick shape. It is a washed rind cheese which is dense, smooth, creamy and mildly piquant. Faintly goaty, lightly lemony, fresh, earthy and full of character with sweet herbaceous overtones. Pairs perfectly with Albariño or Godello white wines.

- Jorge

Celebrate Earth Day by planting a garden!    A a new shipment of padron pepper seeds has arrived, just in time to start germinating.   If you’ve never tasted a padron pepper, they are a small piquant green variety from Galicia.   They grow well in the cool northwest and are best  enjoyed when they are not over 3 inches long.   The larger they are, the hotter they can be!

VALUE WINES UNDER $10.00
2007 Dom Martinho rose, Estremoz Portugal ($8.99) Rothschild-Lafite acquired this estate in 1992 and since has brought the vineyards back to immaculate condition, as only the Rothschilds can do. Dom Martinho rose is fresh and clean, with vibrant strawberry-raspberry flavors. With great acidity and hints of mineral, this is a perfect wine to kick off the rose season with!
2006 San Isidro Cepas del Zorro Dos Ano Monastrell, Bullas ($8.99) The region of Bullas is near Jumilla in Southwestern Spain but has a superior high and dry terroir. Produced from vines as old as 60 years and at 2100 feet elevation, this is a powerfully authentic wine. With fruity raspberry aromas on the nose, it has a brawny mid palate with mineral notes, hints of spice and plenty of tannic structure. Aged two years in the bottle but without any time in barrel, Cepas del Zorro is rustic and meaty. Great with barbecued ribs!
2007 Valdemar Tempranillo Rioja ($9.99) New on the market and bursting with vivid boysenberry fruit, Valdemar Tempranillo is a must-try for those looking for a great paella wine. With just the right amount of acidity and moderate tannins, it deftly balances any rich dish or roasted meat. This is a red that I’ll be serving all year round.

SPECIAL OCCASION WINES UNDER $20.00:
2007 Martina Prieto Pariente Verdejo, Rueda ($15.99) Martina’s mother, Victoria, is said to produce the best white wine in Spain under their famous estate name, Jose Pariente. Martina, an enology student, is making her own wine with her mother using extreme methods such as harvesting grapes at night to lock in the fresh aromatics. Martina Prieto sings with flavors of creamy grapefruit, ripe pineapple, lime, flint, and a hint of cinnamon. Vibrant with acidity, it is a great pairing with octopus ceviche.
2006 Naiades, Rueda, Regularly $23.99, now on sale for $19.99. This is absolutely one of the best white wines I’ve tasted. The Naiades vineyards were planted in the 19th century with ungrafted Verdejo vines. Surviving generations of harsh climate, poor soils and phylloxera, these vines produce the extraordinary fruit that goes into Naiades. With aromas of beeswax and dried flowers, the oak is evident but muted. Full bodied, creamy and rich, it has great balanced acidity with flavors of buttered toast, melon and citrus. “The barrel-fermented 2006 Naia Des is 100% old-vine Verdejo sourced from ungrafted 80- to 100-year-old vines. The nose is slightly toasty but the fruit comes through with plenty of citrus, mineral, and floral notes. The oak treatment seems to have resulted in a creamier texture. The wine is nicely balanced, medium long, and may evolve for 1-2 years although it can be enjoyed now.” 90 points Jay Miller
2006 Luigi Bosca Malbec Reserva, Mendoza ($19.99) The 2005 Luigi Bosca Reserva Malbec was a sensational Malbec and quickly sold out. The 2006 vintage just arrived, and it has all the rich smokiness, structure and balance of the 2005. “Full ruby-red. Musky, vinous aromas of blackberry, mocha, espresso and tobacco. Suave, juicy and palate-coating, with a distinctly saline element adding complexity to the flavors of raspberry, tobacco, smoke and green olive. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and lovely aromatic lift. A distinctly soil-inflected wine with loads of personality-and an excellent value.” 90 points Stephen Tanzer

Have a great week, and we hope to see you at the shop.

Regards,
Sharon Baden & Steve Winston, owners
The Spanish Table

Holiday Feasting in Portland

April 16, 2009

The buzz about Portland’s diverse restaurant scene got us on the road Sunday morning with our California partners Andy and Tanya. Our first stop was lunch at Andina in the Pearl District (http://www.andinarestaurant.com). After sharing piquillo peppers stuffed with quinoa and jamon serrano, tender octopus kebabs, and fresh lime infused fish ceviche, we understand why it gets rave reviews. A few hours later we stopped at Toro Bravo (http://www.torobravopdx.com) for a pre-dinner sherry and couldn’t leave without trying the manchego cheese marinated in rose petal harissa and mint, sherry chicken liver mousse, and the oxtail croquettes. What astonishing flavor combinations! We would have stayed all night but we had dinner reservations at Le Pigeon (http://www.lepigeon.com), a tiny bistro with communal tables which is always full. The seasonal menu was loaded with meat-centric dishes that blew us away.  My fried rabbit was more rabbit confit, ultra-tender with meat falling off the bone. We had duck breast and beef cheeks and an amazing finale of cornbread, maple syrup and bacon. Everything was fantastic! We’ll go back to these places very, very soon.

Instant Tapa:  Start with a slice of Aegean Gourmet Golden Toast ($1.99/11.6 oz), add a layer of Greenland Buffalo Feta cheese ($3.99/500 grams) and top with Napoleon Grilled Artichoke Halves ($3.85/7.5 oz).  Serve at room temperature.

New Meats

Chorizo Leon ($11.99, appx ¾ lb): Take one bite of this intensely flavored soft-cured sausage and you’ll think you’re in Spain. Its distinctive flavor comes from a mixture of garlic with the smoked paprikas from Pimenton de la Vera. Serve sliced at room temperature on a charcuterie plate.

Asturian Fabada Stew Kit ($23.99/appx 2 lbs): Our cold and rainy Easter weather got me hankering for stew. A comfort food fanatic, nothing warms me on a chilly night like a hearty serving of Fabada, the signature dish of Asturias. Traditionally made with a special bean called “fabe” grown in this region, this sausage and bean dish is absolutely satisfying. Our Asturian Fabada Stew Kit includes Chorizo Bilbao, Morcilla de Cebolla (blood sausage with onion), Tocino (bacon with rind) and Jamon Serrano (dry cured ham). We also have a limited supply of the authentic “Fabe” Fabada bean ($35.00/kg), which is prized for its ability to hold shape after a long simmer.

For a Fabada recipe, click this link: http://www.spain-recipes.com/fabada-asturiana.html

Soujouk ($9.99/1.2 lb): We discovered this dried beef sausage in Turkey, where it was sliced over a dish of hummus and warmed, then served as a tasty appetizer.

Basturma or Pastirma ($12.99/12 oz): Racks of hanging beef loin rubbed with a heavy marinade of paprika, fenugreek and chili line the market streets of Kayseri, Turkey. This popular spiced beef is sliced thin and eaten on bread, or it can be sauteed and eaten with everything from eggs or wrapped in phyllo dough and baked.

 

FISH PRODUCTS

Squid ink ($.99/4 gram plastic or $19.99/200 gr jar): Not a new product for us, but we’ve been getting a lot of calls for it lately.   The essential ingredient in black rice or squid in its own ink.  Now available in a 200 gr jar as well as the familiar plastic packets.  
Filetes de Boqueron: ($8.99/appx 6 oz) Another item that is frequently asked for.  These fresh white anchovies are marinated in oil and vinegar, with garlic and parsley. We had these one night at Txori on top of crostini with black olive tapenade. The briny fish and rich olive flavors were fantastic together!   Also great on caesar salad.

 

 

WHITE WINE 

2007 Grinalda Reserva Vinho Verde, Portugal ($14.99) Produced by Vinho Verde maker Aveleda, Grinalda represents the perfect combination of tradition and innovation. The grapes are fermented at low temperature with selected yeasts in an effort to preserve the naturally fresh character. Unlike many vinho verde wines, carbon dioxide has not been added to Grinalda; it reflects the intense aromas of the Loureiro grape, the elegance and softness of Trajadura and the persistent finish of Alvarinho. It’s aromas of tropical fruits and flowers, flavors of fresh stone fruit with notes of citrus and a zippy acidity provide a clean and bracing palate. Excellent with shellfish.

2007 Porrais Douro ($16.99) Produced from a 28 hectare vineyard which is over 60 years old, with shale and schist soils at an altitude of 600 meters, this white wine is a knockout! Made of 60% Rabigato and 40% Codega do Larinho, it is steely and lean. With citrus and green apple flavors, abundant minerality and moderate tannins, it is crisp, delicate and delicious.

WINE VALUES:    To ease the pain of tax season, we’ve added to our stock of over 50 wines under $10.00. Amazing wines from Spain and Portugal arrive weekly and continue to be the best value on the planet!

2007 Mesta Tempranillo, Tierra de Castilla ($7.99): Named for gatherings of sheep herders organized to sort stray sheep (mestencos) from their flock, Mesta is 100% Tempranillo, the wine traditionally served with lamb. The grapes are grown at 2500 feet elevation, and it has great balance and food-pairing acidity. Aged in stainless steel, this is a young wine with a fruit driven nose full of enticing aromas of ripe red berries. On the palate, it has chewy and firm tannins with a hint of pepper and a persistent finish. Serve this at your next backyard barbeque!
2008 Famega Rose, Portugal ($7.99) Our first 2008 rose has arrived! With all the promise of a seedling poking up its first shoots, the new rose season brings hope of salad days to come. 2008 Famega is loaded with fresh strawberry flavor, a hint of effervescence and a feeling of summer. Sip it chilled on the deck on a sunny day!
2007 Carlos Bassos Dos Fincas Cabernet Sauvignon – Merlot, Mendoza ($9.99) Aged lightly in oak for 4 months, Dos Fincas is a blend of two different vineyards and microclimates. Made of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot, its jammy berry aromas and plump black berry flavors shine through. Solid and flush throughout, it has surprising softness. Excellent with grilled pork chops.
2005 Conde de Vimioso, Ribatejano ($9.99) Winemaker Joao Portugal Ramos has been the most influential wine consultant in Southern Portugal over the last 15 years. His philosophy of low yields, preserving fruit flavors and occasional oak aging with modern winemaking techniques have made him a superstar. His 2005 Conde de Vimioso combines aromatic, dark fruit flavors of Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira blended beautifully with the bold spices of Tempranillo and well-integrated tannins of Cabernet. The palate is rich and youthful, showing raspberry and currant fruit with hints of white pepper, espresso bean and dark chocolate on the lingering finish.
NV Quinta de la Rosa’s Finest Reserve Port, Douro ($11.99/375 ml, $19.99/750 ml) “is a stunning example of what can be achieved and found in non-vintage port blends. This small port lodge has turned out a terrific, full-bodied, garnet/ruby-colored wine with a big, chocolatey, black-cherry, cedary nose, full-bodied, unctuously-textured flavors, and gobs of fruit and richness, as well as an off-dry, impressive finish. Drink it over the next decade or more.” 92 points Robert Parker

We hope to see you soon and have a great week!  

Best regards, 

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, owners
The Spanish Table Inc.

 

SEMANA SANTA THE SPANISH TABLE COOKBOOK RELEASED IN HARDBACK

Processions of wooden platforms with statues of saints labor through Spanish streets.  Mournful groups of hooded figures glide alongside the floats.  Saetas, which begin with a moan then descend to a lament, are sung from balconies to the processions below.  Misa Flamencas, religious music sung in the style of flamenco, are performed during mass.  This is Semana Santa, or Holy Week in Spain.  It culminates on Easter Sunday when church bells ring and hoods are removed for celebratory family feasts of lamb or rabbit.  
 
Our Easter Sundays were a much lighter affair.  With a Southern Methodist mother and a fallen-Catholic Irish father, our traditions centered around Easter egg hunts and baked ham dinners.  We celebrated the renewal of spring by eating new potatoes and planting hanging baskets.     Regardless of your traditions, we hope that you have a great Easter holiday!

THE SPANISH TABLE WILL BE CLOSED ON EASTER SUNDAY, APRIL 12TH.   FELIZ PASCUA!
 
NEW THIS WEEK    In November 2005, The Spanish Table self-published a paperback cookbook entitled (what else?) “The Spanish Table Cookbook”, a primer on Iberian cookware, unique ingredients and wines. Containing recipes and anecdotes compiled from newsletters we mailed out during our first ten years in business, it is a compendium of great discovories. The print newsletter is long gone due to rising costs of printing and mailing but the cookbook lives on thanks to Gibbs M. Smith, the owner for the past 40 years of Gibbs Smith Publishing. Gibbs Smith has just published a hardback, professionally edited version of “The Spanish Table” ($30.00) enriched with splashy, atmospheric photos which just hit our shelves yesterday.
Fig jam with lemon flower honey ($6.99/7 oz) Serve this with cana oveja, a soft ripened sheep milk cheese for a savory tapa.
S.A.T. El Artesano Green Fig Marmalade from El Bierzo ($8.99/300 grams) Made by hand, this artisanal marmalade contains just green figs and sugar. Eat this on your morning toast and you’ll believe you’re in Spain.
Ibsa Roasted Red Pepper Strips from Bierzo ($4.99/285 grams). We’re starting to see more foods coming from Bierzo and we received an introductory price on these peppers.  We tossed them into our garbanzo and shrimp paella last weekend for a bright flavor accent. Made in the town of Carracedelo, these sweet roasted peppers are packed in olive oil and salt.

Wondering what to do with all of the colored eggs left from the Easter hunt? Turn them into a savory tapas with the following recipe from “The Spanish Table” cookbook.
Baby Shrimp Meat-Stuffed Eggs    Makes 24 Tapas
½ teaspoon sweet smoked pimenton
½ cup mayonnaise
½ pound baby shrimp meat
1 dozen hard-boiled eggs
12 lemon-stuffed olives, cut in half lengthwise for garnish
Combined the first 3 ingredients. Half the eggs and remove the yolks, reserving for another use. Fill the cavity in the egg halves with the shrimp mixture. Top with an olive and serve.

CHEESE CORNER
Cabra al Vino “Buenalba“
Move ovah Drunken Goat! The makers of Artequeso Manchego have created a new raw goats milk cheese with red wine all throughout the cheese. This mini curado has wonderful herbaceous and aromatic grape nuances. A superior quality cheese compared to the over processed drunken goat. $19.99/lb. $4.99 quarter lb
Cabra al Pimentón This vibrant orange raw goat’s milk curado has paprika permeated throughout the cheese. The surprising texture has a delicate creaminess with an even balance of acidity and salt. Hints of smoke come through on the finish with notes of rustic aromatic earth and straw. $19.99/lb $4.99/quarter lb.
Malvorosa Is a farmhouse sheep cheese produced in Valencia. It is hand made in the traditional shape of “servilleta” or cheesecloth and is smooth, buttery and full flavored with hints of butterscotch in the finish. This beautiful cheese is truly a labor of love-the cheesemaker saved this rare species of sheep from extinction, making this an exceptional find. $21.99/lb. $5.50/quarter lb.
Oveja al Romero (Rosemary Manchego) Raw Sheep’s milk cheese from the estate farm of the Alvarez Valera family, makers of Artequeso Manchegos. This mini wheel is lightly infused with rosemary and is definitely the most aromatic cheese in the case. If you love rosemary this will most likely become your favorite cheese. $ 18.99/lb. $ 4.75/quarter lb.

NEW WHITE WINES

2007 Alma de Blanco Godello, Monterrei ($13.99) The Monterrei region of Galicia is an area of steep hills, terraced vineyards and an Atlantic climate. This full bodied white is made from 100% Godello.  With delicate aromas of floral and citrus, Alma de Blanco has bright flavors of peach, apricot and lemon. Crisp with lively acidity, the finish is dry with earthy notes. I’m a big fan of the Godello grape which pairs wonderfully with seafood.  89 points Wine Advocate, Value Wines
2007 Can Vendrell Chardonnay-Xarel-lo, Penedes ($13.99) ORGANIC, made with the lowest possible sulfites.  A unique blend of 60% Xarello (a grape used in Cava) and 40% Chardonnay. Unoaked, exotic and crisp. A floral and citrus nose unveils a palate that is fresh with notes of peach, nectarine and dry pear. Notes of honeysuckle and orange/lemon zest with nuances of refreshing mineral and almond on the finish. 

NEW RED WINES 
2006 Torremoron, Ribera del Duero ($11.99) Torremoron is made from old vine Tempranillo in the tiny pueblo of Quintanamanvirgo. The winery supports most of the 105 residents of this town, who pour their TLC into every bottle. Full bodied with firm notes of boysenberry, mineral and tobacco, it is supple and well balanced. Ready to drink now, it will pair wonderfully with Easter lamb dinner. 90 points Wine Advocate, Best Value
2006 Vinedos de El Seque, Alicante ($11.99) Rioja producer Artadi is the owner of this property in Alicante, near Jumilla. Made of 80% old vine, low yielding Monastrell from the arid chalky soils of Pinoso, with a balance of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo. Vinedos de El Seque has a rich nose of dark currants with traces of iron and minerals along with dark chocolate. Elegant and finely balanced with hints of blueberry, its lively acidity and moderate tannins make it a pleasure to sip.
2006 La Huella de Almansenas, Almansa ($11.99)
60% Garnacha Tintorera, 30% Monastrell and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon from 30 year old vines.  “Opaque ruby.  High-pitched cherry and dark berry aromas are complicated by smoky bacon, rose oil, anise and minerals.  Fresh and juicy, offering sweet raspberry and boysenberry flavors along with a bright mineral undertone.  Finishes fresh, clean and precise, with very good persistence.  This wine, which saw no oak, was made by Ester Nin, who is the cellarmaster at Clos Erasmus.  Great value.”  90 points Stephen Tanzer   Limited quantities available, last year’s release sold out quickly!
2004 Fincas Don Martinho Old Vine Malbec, Mendoza ($15.99) ORGANIC  Produced in an 18.5 acre vineyard planted in 1926 from ungrafted clones brought from France, Don Martino is a cult wine in Argentina. Tremendously complex, it has wild aromatics, a rich mid-palate, and an incredible silky texture. Aromas of sweet plums combine with hints of vanilla and chocolate. Slightly spicy, the mouthfeel is long and gentle. Aged in new French barrels for 6 months, it displays soft tannins and balance which finish in a lingering, rich aftertaste.

 SPANISH COOKING CLASSES
Join Chef Joseba at the Harvest Vine on Saturday, April 11th at 10 AM to learn the tastes and traditions of an authentic Spanish Easter celebration.  $60.00 For reservations, call 206.320.9771.
May Cooking Seminars at Taberna del Alabardero.   Tuesdays from 11 AM to 1 PM which include a multi-course lunch, $40.00.  For reservations and information, call 206.448.8884.  http://www.alabardero.com

Have a great week!
Sharon Baden & Steve Winston
Owners, The Spanish Table
1426 Western Avenue
Seattle WA  98101
phone# 206-682-2827
Other stores in Santa Fe NM; Berkeley, CA; Mill Valley, CA

San Francisco

Exceptional weather followed us on our Tour de Tiendas as we flew into the Bay Area.  Arriving as the sun set behind the Golden Gate Bridge, great constellations of sparkling stars emerged in the darkening sky.   Former chefs, our California partners Andy and Tanya have so enthusiastically embraced North African flavors that they invited the entire Berkeley and Mill Valley staff to a potluck and wine tasting.  Great inspiration came from Claudia Roden’s classic cookbook Arabesque: A Taste of Morocco, Turkey & Lebanon as well as our favorite new cookbook: Oranges and Olives, Recipes and Flavor Secrets from Italy, Spain, Cyprus and Beyond by Sara Jenkins and Mindy Fox.  Spicy chicken tagine, baked quince filled with ground lamb, marinated swordfish brochettes with preserved lemon and Farro salad with black Kabuli Chickpeas, Arugula, Piquillo Peppers, and Sherry Vinaigrette were just a small sample of the terrific array.  Back in Seattle, we’ve already reprised the roasted cauliflower in tahini sauce, a perfect winter vegetable dish (and great for those on a diet.)
NEW WINES THIS WEEK
2007 Burgans Albariño (Rias-Baixas) $12.99 New vintage!  “The 2007 Burgans Albarino is light gold-colored with a sprightly nose of mineral, spring flowers, and lemon peel. Ripe, balanced, and concentrated, this is an ideal match for flaky fish courses. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. … in terms of bang for the buck, it has no challenger.”  90 points Wine Advocate
2006 Las Rocas Garnacha (Calatayud) $10.99 New vintage, only 4 cases available!  “The 2006 Las Rocas Garnacha is dark crimson-colored with an alluring nose of spice box, mineral, black cherry, and black raspberry. Smooth-textured, round, and with no hard edges, this tasty effort is designed for immediate gratification. This is one worth buying by the case.  The grapes for Las Rocas are sourced from high altitude 70-100 year old Garnacha vineyards.”  91 points Wine Advocate
2005 Tomas Cusine El Vilosell (Costers del Segre) $15.99 New vintage!  “The 2005 El Vilosell is composed of 50% Tempranillo, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 9% Garnacha, and 5% Syrah aged for 9 months in new French oak. Purple-colored, it reveals a fragrant array of scents including pepper, spice box, smoke, blackberry, black currant, and blueberry pie. Plush in texture, the wine is full-bodied, with layers of spicy fruit, intense flavors, and well-concealed tannins. Drink this superb value now and over the next 6-8 years.”  91 points Wine Advocate
2007 Onix Classic (Priorat) $15.99 A blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Cariñena grapes, the low yielding vines are planted in shards of slate called “llicorella”.  A bouquet of dark plums, sweet black cherries and a hint of rosemary, with intense concentration, soft tannins and a touch of black pepper in the finish.  A great value from Priorat!
2004 Campo Viejo Reserva Rioja ($13.99): An amazing value for an aged wine from a great vintage (look for Rioja wines from vintages 2001, 2004 and 2005). A traditional style Rioja in every sense with plum and cherry notes, sweet tannins and saddle leather flavors.
2000 La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza (Rioja) Alta ($35.00):   Part of our blind tasting in California, this is not new but it was the knock out memory-maker.  Its sensuous body is pure silk and the finish lingers like an old friend reluctant to leave.  Renew your love over this on Valentine’s Day either at home or take it to a romantic restaurant.
50 Wines under $10:   We continue to search out great bargain wines and carefully screen them for quaffability.   Tasting dozens of low-priced wines looking for winners is a tough job but fortunately there are many great values to be had.   Stop in and check out our latest finds!
FOODS:  One of the stops in the Bay Area was the Fancy Food Show in San Francisco.  We were delighted when on Wednesday the Chronicle newspaper food writers picked some products we stock as their favorites: Xoxoc dehydrated prickly pear with chile that are sweet, sour, salty and hot from Hidalgo, Mexico.  These are slightly chewy prickly pear with a little savory spicy hit.  As well as Matiz light and rustic Andalucian olive oil cakes from Spain which come in four flavors: garlic-parsley, sugared, cinnamon and the original with anise.
Cheeses of the Week:  Both of these cheeses are from the lush slopes of the Catalan Pyrenees:
Ros: A granular aged sheep’s milk cheese with notes of brown sugar.
Montcaber: Bathed in charcoal and vegetable oil with a semi soft texture truffle flavor.
Pricing: It has been a roller coaster year for prices with the Euro soaring to over $1.60 and then settling back down to $1.30.  Freight surcharges also rose mid-year reflecting the cost of crude oil (transportation companies routinely add a fuel surcharge to every bill based on a government index published weekly.  At one point this summer, it was adding 30% to every freight bill).  We are not only passing reduced costs on to you but we are anticipating reduced cost by narrowing our margin on inventory we purchased when prices were higher.  So stick with us, we are doing the best we can as fast as we can.
PLYMOUTH HOUSING BENEFIT GALA DINNER & AUCTION:In May, Gibbs Smith will publish a jazzed-up edition of The Spanish Table cookbook.  To celebrate, we will be hosting a tapa and paella dinner for 40 on Saturday, May 16th.  Twenty tickets, each good for a couple, will be auctioned off Saturday, February 7th by Plymouth Housing at their annual benefit dinner at the Fairmont Olympic Hotel.  www.plymouthhousing.org
Sharon Baden, Owner & Wine Manager

We Miss You

We miss you!  Every day it snows, we mention how much it has taken out of our lives this year not having so many of our regular customers come in for their Christmas treats, gifts and wines.  In the past, we have always been able to vicariously share your menus for holiday parties, get tips on preparing traditional old world Christmas Eve dishes such as bacalhau or cardos and be inspired by your plans for truly wonderful Christmas feasts.  This year, the mood of those of you who struggled in was less bacchanalian and more survivalist.  You showed us the mukluks you dug out of the back of your closet, stuffed a few key essentials into your backpacks, pulled up the hood on your anorak and headed back out across the ice.
 
Christmas at our house is subdued not only by the weather but by the fact that when we moved out last July so the contractor could repair extensive dry rot, we put our Christmas decorations and ornaments in storage in a facility over the edge of the hill east of Avalon here in West Seattle, a facility completely inaccessible in this weather.  But there are only a few details left to be finished on our house (like the front and back porches) and we are back home counting our blessings as we shovel snow off the driveway.
 
But here comes New Year’s 2009.  We have lots of cava in stock (actually we have lots of inventory period).  The snow is melting so come on down and share your ice and snow stories with us!
 
Closed Christmas Day; open 10 am -6 pm Friday.
 
Feliz Ano Novo!  ¡Prospero Año Nuevo!

YBARRA ANCHOVY STUFFED OLIVES

YBARRA ANCHOVY STUFFED OLIVES are back in stock!   Our first visit to Ybarra’s Sevilla office a few years ago happened to be the day before La Feria de Abril began.  Javier, Ybarra’s export manager, invited us to join his group on opening day.  For this, the social event of the year, men wear suits and shiny shoes and women dress in the latest flamenco fashion with colorful picos (scarves).    Sevillianos ride horses groomed and polished to their hooves and tote a glass around their neck for sipping sherry.
NEW SHIPMENT OF VALOR CHOCOLATES arrived this week!   Valor has been a master chocolatier since 1881 and operates irresistible chocolate shops all over Spain. Located in the seaside town of Villajoyosa Alicante, a chocolate industry sprang up in this region when fishermen brought chocolate back from Ghana.   Stopping at the factory in 2006, we were given a tour which ended in the tasting room and discovered chocolates that we simply had to bring in.   We’ve now got dark chocolate bars flavored with orange, banana or pear ($3.69 per 3.5 oz bar).   Small boxes of Bombones – great for stocking stuffers! – are $5.39.  Decorative tins of Bombones (10.5 oz) are $19.99.
BOQUERONES ON SALE: White anchovies.  Special price, regularly $11.99; now $6.99 while they last.
CHEESE CASE
Every December we feature an extra selection of highly prized cheeses from Spain and Portugal.    Our holiday line up began arriving this week:
Currently we have a nice fat wheel of Nevat, our fourth Catalan cheese in the case. I can’t think of any other cheese that would better kick off the season with a lively glass of Cava. Maker Josep Cuixart takes same-day goat milk from his own herd and hangs the curds in a cheese cloth until it looks like a snow capped Mountain. (Nevat means snow in English.)  Nevat can be positively oozy in its old age, or like a firm brie, but it captivates with a chalky core of sweet tang.
Torta Del Casar: Fantastic sheep’s milk cheese from Extremadura.   Salty, herbaceous almost spoonable; with artichoke rennet.
Cabra Quinta Da Gardunha: Creamy Portuguese goat’s milk cheese, fresh and slightly tangy with a grassy piquant flavor.
Dom Villas: Springy textured cow’s milk cheese to complement your Portuguese cheese platter.
Sao Jorge: Wonderfully piquant, intense and creamy, it pairs perfectly with Linguica.
All of these Portuguese are made with vegetarian rennet.
NEW FLAMENCO CD: Cantaora La Tana was discovered by Paco de Lucia and performs on his CD “Cositas Buenas.”   “Tu, Ven A Mi” is La Tana’s first solo release and features producer Paco de Lucia on acoustic guitar.  This compelling CD is a must-have for any flamenco afficionado. 
KUDOS TO THE WINE PRESS for taking notice of the amazing wines coming out of Spain and Portugal!   The Wine Spectator’s Dec. 15 issue features wines from Spain and enthuses over Rioja:   “Today, no other region can deliver such quality, value and diversity.”
Some of the highly recommended wines that we’ve got in stock:
2007 Adega Condes de Albarei Albariño, Riax Baixas ($13.99) “Focused and distinctive… Complex yet balanced.”  90 points Wine Spectator
1998 Lopez de Heredia Viña Gravonia Crianza Rioja ($27.99) “R. Lopez de Heredia continues to carry the flag for traditional white Riojas, made with Viura long-aged in American oak; its Viña Gravonia Crianza is unique, with toasted hazelnut, lemon confit and lanolin notes, firm and delicate.”  91 points Wine Spectator
2005 Quinta de Cabriz Dao Reserva ($19.99) “Powerful, dripping with rich, dark plum and mocha.”  89 points Wine Spectator
2004 LAN Rioja Reserva $17.99 “Silky, expressive” 90 points Wine Spectator
2005 Condado de Haza, Ribera del Duero ($29.99) “Shows focus and depth, on a supple frame.” 93 points Wine Spectator
2001 Bodegas Luis Cañas Selección de la familia Reserva Rioja ($33.00)       “This lively red has a syrupy texture, yet crisp acidity, showing kirsch, cassis, vanilla and licorice flavors.  It’s dense and focused, with well integrated tannins.”  90 points Wine Spectator
COLLECTOR’S CORNER
2005 LAN Edition Limitada ($50.00) “Intense, vibrant, a great value” 91 points Wine Spectator
2005 Bodegas El Nido Jumilla ($150.00) “Muscular, with a distinctive meaty note, Bodegas El Nido is the top producer…  It’s 2005 adds Cabernet Sauvignon to the mix and shows blueberry, mineral and tar flavors.”   94 points Wine Spectator
Highly recommended from Argentina:
2005 Luigi Bosca Malbec Reserva ($19.99) “A big, broad-shouldered wine, with muscular layers of black fig, coffee, bittersweet cocoa and dark licorice.”  91 points Wine Spectator
2007 Viña Doña Paula Malbec ($12.99) “Dark and winy, delivering warm currant paste, cocoa powder and Turkish coffee notes, with solid grip on the fleshy finish.”  90 points Wine Spectator
SPANISH WINE DINNER Casa Ventura Imports is teaming up with Restaurant Perché No for a Mediterranean culinary event on Wednesday December 10 at 6:30 p.m.   Spanish wines will be paired with a 5 course Italian dinner, accompanied by a live opera singer and an olive oil tasting.    Perché No is located in the Greenlake neighborhood and the cost is $75.00 per person.   For reservations or more information, call 206-547-0222.

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