A Segovian Gold Mine

The Elusive Pago de Carraovejas

July 30, 2009

Established by Segovian restauranteur and sommelier Jose Maria Ruiz, Bodegas Pago de Carraovejas has become one of the crown jewels of Ribera del Duero wines. Jose Maria’s insistence on excellence has driven these wines onto the “must have” list of all quality restaurants in Spain. Only 10% of production is exported. Every vintage quickly sells out and allocations are becoming more difficult to come by. Our Bay Area stores have been lucky enough to obtain a small amount of the recent vintages, and it knocked my socks off when I tasted it earlier this year. We’ve had countless customer requests for this wine and for months the distributor has repeated “it’s coming..” it’s coming…”

Happenstance rewarded us once again in Spain. Unwittingly, we stumbled into a tapas gold mine at El Descanso de Juan Pacheco in Segovia. Along with fantastic food, Pago de 

Carraovejas was being poured like water!

Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva… by the glass… by the bottle… no limits.

And now that we’ve returned from Spain, finally, last week we received two cases of the 2006 Crianza. Another case “is coming..”

A single vineyard wine, 2006 Pago de Carraovejas Crianza is a blend of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. Aged for 12 months in oak barrels, it is an intense cherry color with purple tones. The nose is filled with ripe fruit aromas of black berries and spices. Flavors of tar and boysenberry slowly spread over the palate with glycerin contributing a rich fruity mouth feel. Well integrated oak, notes of coffee and cacao with supple tannins. Concentrated and intense, it has herbal notes with a smooth and persistent finish. A powerful and effusive wine, here is a rare opportunity to experience this wine outside of Spain! 2006 Pago de Carraovejas Crianza (Ribera del Duero) $40.00. Only 34 bottles available.

 

NEW WINES THIS WEEK

2007 Torres Sangre de Toro Tempranillo, Penedes ($7.99)  The Torres family has been producing wines in Catalunya since the late 1800’s. Their consistent production of quality wines at all price levels has earned them a loyal customer base. Sangre de Toro Tempranillo is a new wine developed by Torres. An absolute bargain, its juicy cherry flavors with hints of smoke have solid complexity for the price. “Impressively supple wine with strong finishing sweetness and focus. Packs a lot of punch and honest fruit for the money.” 87 points Stephen Tanzer

2007 Vina Gormaz, Ribera del Duero ($9.99) A former co-op, this recently-privatized company controls the majority of acreage in Ribera del Duero’s Soria province. Containing the highest remaining percentage of old vine, head-pruned Tempranillo, Vina Gormaz’s focus is upon complexity and elegance without oak aging. The 2007 vintage has deep wild berry aromas, fruit forward juicy blackberry flavors and ample but balanced tannins. This tasty wine is one to enjoy young.

2007 Tres Ojos Old Vines Garnacha, Calatayud $9.99)  Exemplifying all of the wild red fruit and spice of pure Garnacha, Tres Ojos is a pleasure to drink. Juicy black cherry flavors have just enough white pepper spiciness to provide zest. Clean, with energizing lift and a persistent finish, Tres Ojos a great all-around food wine and a great value!

2007 Finca Resalso, Ribera del Duero ($13.99) Producedby Bodegas Emilio Moro, Finca Resalso is a wine produced from Moro’s younger vineyards. Four months of aging in oak give structure with fine tannins, vibrant fruit flavors, and well balanced acidity. “Dark ruby-colored, it emits an enticing perfume of mineral, violets, black cherry, and blackberry. On the palate it reveals an elegant personality, savory, spicy flavors, good depth, and a fruit-filled finish. Drink this tasty effort over the next four years.” 90 points Wine Advocate

2006 Luigi Bosca Malbec Reserva, Mendoza ($19.99) Produced from low yielding vines at an altitude of 960 meters, made of 100% Malbec, it is aged 12 months in oak casks. Full bodied with aromas of bing cherry, it has flavors of concentrated kirsch liqueur, notes of coffee, spices and pepper. Elegant, with round and sweet tannins, this has the potential to age for up to 10 years. When we tasted this against a limited release ($120.00) Malbec, Luigi Bosca completely over delivered for a fraction of the price. Highly recommended!

 

Last week’s New York Times article about wines from D.O. Ribera Sacra generated a ton of inquiries. We’ve located another wine mentioned in the article: 2007 Guimaro, (Ribera Sacra) $17.99 “Light bodied, juicy, inexpensive wines with a welcome earthy touch.”

 

HOT WEATHER BEVERAGES

When the thermometer tops 90 degrees and your house has no air conditioning, what do you do? My favorite heat-beating activities: Go swimming in Lake Washington, have a picnic at Lincoln Park, and sip a cold, cold, beverage.

Some our our favorite cold drinks:

Estrella Damm Beer from Spain: $9.99 per six pack

Cusquena Lager Beer from Peru: $9.99 per six pack

Sagres Lager Beer from Portugal: $8.99 per six pack

Casa Beer from Morrocco: $1.99 per 11 oz bottle

Estrella Damm Inedit Beer: Developed by Ferran Adria of El Bulli, this beer was specifically developed to serve with food. $9.99/750 ml bottle

2007 Senorio de Sarria rose, (Navarra) Seafair Special — Was $9.99, now $5.99! Navarra is the traditional home of Spanish rosados. Senorio de Sarria’s bright aromas and flavors of fresh strawberries are front and center in this tasty rose. 100% Garnacha, it is crisp, dry and the ultimate refreshment on a hot day.

2009 Casal Garcia rose vino verde ($8.99) took Seattle by storm during our first heat wave. We couldn’t keep it in stock and neither could the distributor. But thankfully it’s back, just in time for the hot weather! Light berry and pie cherry flavors with a thirst quenching effervesence and 10.5% alcohol make this a perfect wine to sip at an afternoon get-together.

2008 Protos Verdejo, Rueda ($10.99) The grapes for this wine are hand picked and kept at low temperature to preserve freshness. Protos Verdejo has clean aromas of grapefruit with lush citrus flavors, vibrant acidity and a persistent green apple finish. Pair this with ceviche for a light and cooling dinner.

 

PICNIC CHEESES

Gardunha: A washed rind goat cheese from Portugal made with a milk thistle rennet. The semi-soft creamy texture is complimented by aromatic citrus zest. It’s lighly piquant flavor is grassy, slightly tangy & floral with white pepper and onion tones. $7.99/quarter lb.

Abrigo: 5 month-aged goat cheese in the format of Tronchón from the town of Catí in the region of Valencia. Abrigo is wonderfully herbaceous,sweet, grassy, slightly piquant and full-flavored with a lingering tangy finish. $5.99/quarter lb.

Serra de Estrella: Queijo Serra da Estrela comes from one of the coldest and highest regions of Portugal. These savory wheels of raw sheep’s milk cheese are made with cardoon thistle, raw sheep’s milk, and salt and can boast Portugal’s DOP name protection. Traditionally scooped out of its leathery cloth-bound rind with pieces of hearty peasant bread, Serra is a a soft, gooey, mildly herbaceous delight. As the wheels age, the paste becomes harder and chewier, but no less delicious. Pair Serra da Estrela with spicier reds like Pinot Noir or Syrah. $10.75/quarter lb.

 

NEW PRODUCTS JUST ARRIVED!

Roland brand Duck and Pork Pates

La Espanola brand Piquillo Stuffed Olives

Dried Red Guindilla Peppers

Despana brand Chorizo and Morcilla

Costa Peruana Aji Amarillo chili paste from Peru. No preservatives!

Grey Mullet Bottarga Powder

 

Stay cool, enjoy the Blue Angels and the Hydroplane races this weekend, and stop in to pick up your picnic supplies!

 

Sincerely,

 

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, Owners

Spanish Table

San Francisco

Exceptional weather followed us on our Tour de Tiendas as we flew into the Bay Area.  Arriving as the sun set behind the Golden Gate Bridge, great constellations of sparkling stars emerged in the darkening sky.   Former chefs, our California partners Andy and Tanya have so enthusiastically embraced North African flavors that they invited the entire Berkeley and Mill Valley staff to a potluck and wine tasting.  Great inspiration came from Claudia Roden’s classic cookbook Arabesque: A Taste of Morocco, Turkey & Lebanon as well as our favorite new cookbook: Oranges and Olives, Recipes and Flavor Secrets from Italy, Spain, Cyprus and Beyond by Sara Jenkins and Mindy Fox.  Spicy chicken tagine, baked quince filled with ground lamb, marinated swordfish brochettes with preserved lemon and Farro salad with black Kabuli Chickpeas, Arugula, Piquillo Peppers, and Sherry Vinaigrette were just a small sample of the terrific array.  Back in Seattle, we’ve already reprised the roasted cauliflower in tahini sauce, a perfect winter vegetable dish (and great for those on a diet.)
NEW WINES THIS WEEK
2007 Burgans Albariño (Rias-Baixas) $12.99 New vintage!  “The 2007 Burgans Albarino is light gold-colored with a sprightly nose of mineral, spring flowers, and lemon peel. Ripe, balanced, and concentrated, this is an ideal match for flaky fish courses. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. … in terms of bang for the buck, it has no challenger.”  90 points Wine Advocate
2006 Las Rocas Garnacha (Calatayud) $10.99 New vintage, only 4 cases available!  “The 2006 Las Rocas Garnacha is dark crimson-colored with an alluring nose of spice box, mineral, black cherry, and black raspberry. Smooth-textured, round, and with no hard edges, this tasty effort is designed for immediate gratification. This is one worth buying by the case.  The grapes for Las Rocas are sourced from high altitude 70-100 year old Garnacha vineyards.”  91 points Wine Advocate
2005 Tomas Cusine El Vilosell (Costers del Segre) $15.99 New vintage!  “The 2005 El Vilosell is composed of 50% Tempranillo, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 9% Garnacha, and 5% Syrah aged for 9 months in new French oak. Purple-colored, it reveals a fragrant array of scents including pepper, spice box, smoke, blackberry, black currant, and blueberry pie. Plush in texture, the wine is full-bodied, with layers of spicy fruit, intense flavors, and well-concealed tannins. Drink this superb value now and over the next 6-8 years.”  91 points Wine Advocate
2007 Onix Classic (Priorat) $15.99 A blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Cariñena grapes, the low yielding vines are planted in shards of slate called “llicorella”.  A bouquet of dark plums, sweet black cherries and a hint of rosemary, with intense concentration, soft tannins and a touch of black pepper in the finish.  A great value from Priorat!
2004 Campo Viejo Reserva Rioja ($13.99): An amazing value for an aged wine from a great vintage (look for Rioja wines from vintages 2001, 2004 and 2005). A traditional style Rioja in every sense with plum and cherry notes, sweet tannins and saddle leather flavors.
2000 La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza (Rioja) Alta ($35.00):   Part of our blind tasting in California, this is not new but it was the knock out memory-maker.  Its sensuous body is pure silk and the finish lingers like an old friend reluctant to leave.  Renew your love over this on Valentine’s Day either at home or take it to a romantic restaurant.
50 Wines under $10:   We continue to search out great bargain wines and carefully screen them for quaffability.   Tasting dozens of low-priced wines looking for winners is a tough job but fortunately there are many great values to be had.   Stop in and check out our latest finds!
FOODS:  One of the stops in the Bay Area was the Fancy Food Show in San Francisco.  We were delighted when on Wednesday the Chronicle newspaper food writers picked some products we stock as their favorites: Xoxoc dehydrated prickly pear with chile that are sweet, sour, salty and hot from Hidalgo, Mexico.  These are slightly chewy prickly pear with a little savory spicy hit.  As well as Matiz light and rustic Andalucian olive oil cakes from Spain which come in four flavors: garlic-parsley, sugared, cinnamon and the original with anise.
Cheeses of the Week:  Both of these cheeses are from the lush slopes of the Catalan Pyrenees:
Ros: A granular aged sheep’s milk cheese with notes of brown sugar.
Montcaber: Bathed in charcoal and vegetable oil with a semi soft texture truffle flavor.
Pricing: It has been a roller coaster year for prices with the Euro soaring to over $1.60 and then settling back down to $1.30.  Freight surcharges also rose mid-year reflecting the cost of crude oil (transportation companies routinely add a fuel surcharge to every bill based on a government index published weekly.  At one point this summer, it was adding 30% to every freight bill).  We are not only passing reduced costs on to you but we are anticipating reduced cost by narrowing our margin on inventory we purchased when prices were higher.  So stick with us, we are doing the best we can as fast as we can.
PLYMOUTH HOUSING BENEFIT GALA DINNER & AUCTION:In May, Gibbs Smith will publish a jazzed-up edition of The Spanish Table cookbook.  To celebrate, we will be hosting a tapa and paella dinner for 40 on Saturday, May 16th.  Twenty tickets, each good for a couple, will be auctioned off Saturday, February 7th by Plymouth Housing at their annual benefit dinner at the Fairmont Olympic Hotel.  www.plymouthhousing.org
Sharon Baden, Owner & Wine Manager

Tour de Tiendas

We are just back from a Tour de Tiendas, visiting our stores in Santa Fe and San Francisco.  Sunny weather welcomed us everywhere and it felt sooo great.
At 7000 feet, the high desert air of Santa Fe was crisp and invigorating.  Always captivated by this city’s mix of Spanish, Native American and Mexican history and the natural beauty of the landscape, we’re also addicted to the New Mexican red and green chiles.   Our manager, Karen Squires, hosted the whole staff for an awesome New Mexican potluck.  Carne adovado marinated and slow cooked in red chile sauce made by chef and employee, Adrian Perez with peppers from his own garden. Red and green New Mexican style tamales, posole, pinto beans and chicos rounded out the menu.  Dessert was sweet tamales filled with native pine nuts, raisins and local honey.
We loved the food at La Boca, Chef James Campbell Caruso’s tapas restaurant.  Former chef at El Farol, he wrote the cookbook that we still recommend to customers looking for a contemporary interpretation of tapas.  James is a customer of The Spanish Table and his menu reflects several of our new products, many with a Moroccan influence.  But our favorite tapa was all Spanish: Asparagus spears dressed with Casa Pons White Truffle Olive Oil, dusted with Matiz Smoked Sea Salt and topped with shavings of aged manchego cheese. 
WINES WE TASTED ON OUR TRIP:                 
The Alto Moncayo Veraton (Campo de Borja) $23.99 paired wonderfully with our picante New Mexican potluck.  Its spicy and ripe red fruit with a deep mineral and white pepper finish was absolutely delicious.    Limited quantities available    91 points Stephen Tanzer           
We sampled wines by the glass at La Boca, pairing them with rich flavors of James’ tapas. 
Portuguese wine 2001 Ardosino Douro ($15.99) was fantastic with grilled artichoke hearts and goat cheese.   Ardosino has an earthy minerality with flavors of currant, real elegance and bright acidity that makes it a great combination with any grilled foods.
2003 Loriñon Rioja Reserva ($18.99) was terrific with spicy lamb meatballs in yogurt-mint sauce.  From a less than stellar vintage, the 2003 Loriñon sings with red cherry, black tea and sweet spice notes integrated with a toasty balsamic finish.   Delicious!
ECONOMIC STIMULUS PACKAGE:   50 under $10:
These are frugal times and after a lot of tasting, we have selected 50 wines under $10 that will allow you to enjoy life without breaking your budget.  Stop by, pick out a dozen of them and get a 10% case discount.  That brings you price down to only $9 a bottle!
NEW VALUE WINES THIS WEEK:
2007 Garnacha de Fuego Old Vines (Calatayud) $7.99   Big and powerful, the grapes for this wine are grown in a desolate, arid area which produces ripe and concentrated fruit.   With intense aromas of sweet cherries and dark plums, Garnacha de Fuego has considerable depth and finesse.  With an exotic spicy finish reminiscent of white pepper, it is great with taco truck fare.
2007 Casa Gualda Tempranillo (La Mancha) $8.99 Think fruity pie cherry with an earthy minerality.  Smoky and low in acidity, Casa Gualda is easy drinking and great for the pocketbook!
SHERRY ARTICLE
Here at The Spanish Table, our appreciation of unique Sherries is evident by our selection – the largest outside of Spain.  Vastly underappreciated, and one of wine’s greatest values (how many wines are available for $45.00 that have been barrel aged for at least 20 years?), sherry is finally getting its due.  If you’d like to learn more about sherry, check out the recent comprehensive article from the San Francisco Chronicle:  http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/01/15/WINR159ONQ.DTL&hw=gonzalez+byass+alfonso&sn=001&sc=1000
 
INGREDIENTS: In Jan 11th The New York Times travel section, Paula Wolfert singled out Moroccan cumin as something she brings back in her suitcase.  Luckily, it is easy to get just by visiting The Spanish Table, thanks to Mustapha Haddouch who buys his directly from the farmer in Morocco.  He also deals directly with the farmer for his saffron.
TWO CHEESES SPECIALS: We were able to make a special purchase on these two cheeses:
Veigadarte   Sometimes referred to as Humbolt Fog on Steroids, Veigadarte is rolled in oak ash and covered by a thick bloomy white rind. Beautiful on a cheese platter with its black and white outline and soft texture, this artisanal cheese uses the milk of two different goat breeds.  With a high butterfat content and the characteristic tang of a goat’s milk, it is distinctive and delicious.  Was: $7.00; Now $5.75/quarter lb.
Drap Made of 100% cow’s milk, Drap has all of its characteristic butteriness with the herbaceous nuances of a goats milk cheese.   Was 9.00/quarter lb; Now 5.75/quarter lb.
TWO NEW CHEESES:
Cantell Goat Cheese  This compact, crumbly and granular goat cheese is aged roughly 4 months. Its fully developed, complex flavor has hints of dry fruits with a herbaceous tangy finish. This rare goat cheese from Catalonia is one of the finest cheeses made by Nevat cheese maker, Joseph. We are offering this cheese only for a limited time.  Now $9.99/quarter lb.
Idiazabal  This unpasteurized sheep’s’ milk cheese is the absolute best Idiazabal on the market. Traditionally, Basque shepherds lived in small mountain huts and due to lack of space, stored and aged their cheese inside stone chimneys. Lana, producer of this Gran Reserva Idiazabal maintain these cheese making traditions, and it reveals itself with wonderfully buttery, lightly smoked, aromatic and tangy flavors. Now $6.50/quarter lb.

New Years Snow Sale

New Years 2009: Well at least now the snow is gone, but we still find ourselves welcoming in the first weekend of 2009 in a store filled with unsold inventory.  Hoping to reduce that, we are kicking of the new year by holding our first ever store wide sale on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, January 2, 3 & 4th.  Come in and shop on those days and we will take 10% off your total bill when you check out.  So this is a good time to stock up on food and wine.
Holiday Hours: Open today, New Year’s Eve, 10 am to 6 pm.  Closed New Years Day.
NEW FOODS FROM TUNISIA: Les Moulins Majoub the highly respected purveyor of gourmet foods from Tunisia have introduced several new products now on our shelves.  The include Artichoke Leaves packed in olive oil and herbs, Artichoke and Seville Orange Chutney, Candied Lemon and Fig Chutney, Sweet Pepper Harissa,  and five new jams ranging from Wild Mulberry to Grapefruit marmalade.  We also have 2 ounce packages of traditionally sliced paleta serrano or paleta ibérico ready to open and serve as a New Year’s tapa (paleta is the front leg, jamon the back leg).
NEW VINTAGES OF SPANISH TABLE FAVORITE WINES HAVE ARRIVED!
2006 Bodegas El Nido Clio (Jumilla) $45.00 Made of 30% Cabernet and 70% old vine Monastrell, Clio was aged 26 months in barrique.   Exuberant aromas of earth, mushroom and leather are followed by vibrant flavors of black pepper, blueberry and black fruits.   Supple-textured and absolutely hedonistic.  With exceptional length and balance, it is full bodied and hugely delicious.  Limited quantities.
2007 Bodegas Atteca Old Vines (Calatayud) $15.99 “100% garnacha, from vines reportedly 80 to 120 years of age.  Inky purple. Ripe boysenberry and blueberry on the nose, with licorice and graphite adding complexity. Juicy dark berry preserve flavors show palate-saturating depth and impressive clarity, picking up smoky minerals with air. Energetic finishing notes of blackberry skin and candied licorice linger with impressive tenacity. According to the importer, the yield for this wine was less than one ton per hectare.” 91 points Stephen Tanzer
WELCOME 2009 WITH A SPANISH CAVA!   SOME OF OUR FAVORITES:
2003 Marques de Gelida Cava Brut Exclusive Reserva (Penedes) $12.99 A blend of Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Parellada and Chardonnay, aged 3 years minimum in the bottled.   Clean, crisp and very fruity, with pleasant hints of stone fruit and citrus.  Excellent sweet-acidic balance with a delicate and lengthy mineral finish. 
NV Torre Oria Brut Nature Cava (Utiel-Requena) $16.99  Torre Oria is made from 90% Macabeo and 10% Parellada.  Aged 36 months, it is straw yellow with pale golden reflections, bright, with very fine and abundant bubbles.  Magnificent presence on the palate, very dry, powerful and leaving a lingering aftertaste. Ideal for accompanying all types of dishes.
2005 Mont Marcal Brut Cava Reserva (Penedes) $11.99 “Bright yellow. Seductively perfumed aromas of Anjou pear, yellow apple and smoky minerals. Pliant orchard and pit fruit flavors boast very good concentration and are energized by dusty minerals, which add good back-end snap. The smoky note repeats on the long, sappy finish. This delivers serious bang for the buck. 90 points Josh Raynolds, IWC.
2005 Agusti Torello Mata Reserva Brut, (Penedes) $22.99 Torello Mata’s Kripta cava became a cult phenomenon when an influential French wine critic declared it comparable to the best French champagne.  Mata Reserva shows very fine, small bubbles that evolve slowly.   In the nose there are creamy notes of fresh butter against a background of ripe fruit.  This cava sparkles with ample development in the mouth, ripe dry fruit and toasted notes.
NV Francoli Cava Brut Reserva   $11.99 Fresh flavors of yellow apples and dried pear with exquisite bubbles on this value-priced cava.  Made from 50% Macabeo and 50% Parellada, it has been aged for 18 months and has a long satisfying finish.
NV Avinyo Cava Brut (Penedes) $17.99 “An excellent value in sparkling wine from Spain, the non-vintage Cava Brut (made from 80% free run juice and aged 18 months) is a tasty, light to medium-bodied, dry sparkler. Notes of bread dough, grapefruit, and other citrus as well as tiny pinpoint bubbles are offered in a refreshing, vigorous style.”  89 points Robert Parker