A Great Unknown Winery in Rioja

A GREAT UNKNOWN WINERY

July 9, 2009

A few years ago we were at Eva Restaurant in Latona which is co-owned by James Hondros, our former wine manager. James poured us each a glass of Saturnia Crianza Rioja which we enjoyed so much that we took a bottle over to my late Dad’s house. After that, whenever I told my Dad I was coming over, he would ask if I could bring along some more bottles of those “saturn” wines.

When we chose our favorite bodegas to visit last month, naturally Rioja’s holy trinity headed the list: R. Lopez Heredia, producer of Vina Tondonia, La Rioja Alta and Bodegas Muga. (Interesting fact: the front doors of these wineries are only meters apart in Haro’s Railroad District where a hundred years ago, they loaded huge barrels of wine on flat cars and sent them off to France which was suffering the scourge phylloxera.)

But one of our most enjoyable visits was with Bodegas Ramon de Ayala Lete y Hijos, who make Vina Santurnia and Deobriga. Just across the Ebro river from Haro in the tiny town of Briñas, they have a new, functional winery nestled between houses on a side street. The modern winery replaced the old bodega which has a two story underground wine cave, now used for aging home-made Cava. Laboring in quiet obscurity, there are few visitors and no tasting room. However, 4th generation winemaker Ramon de Alaya was charming and hospitable during our 4 hour visit, as we visited the vineyards, the old bodega, tasted barrel samples and the most recent releases.  The secret to his nuanced wines lies in his south facing vineyards which are nestled high up against the Sierra Cantabria mountains. His oldest vineyards were planted in 1936; the youngest vineyards are 30-40 years old. The vines, planted to a mix of traditional Rioja grapes, are overseen by Ramon’s grandson, a technical agronomist engineer. Minimal intervention is used in the vineyard, whose late ripening grapes achieve great depth and balance.

THE WINES OF VINA SANTURNIA

Stay ahead of the wine critics and try one of these little-known wines!

2004 Vina Santurnia Crianza Rioja ($15.99) Made of 100% Tempranillo, the Crianza has inviting fresh aromas, with flavors of bing cherry, boysenberry, toast and licorice. Notes of vanilla frame a persistent, earthy finish. Give it 20 minutes to open up and savor the complexity.

2004 Deobriga Seleccion Familiar, Rioja ($21.99) Spanish Table exclusive! The most modern style Rioja produced by Bodegas Ramon de Ayala Lete y Hijos, we jumped at the chance to carry this an an exclusive. Made from old vine Tempranillo and Graciano, it has complex flavors of blackberry, blueberry, hints of black olive and tobacco. A supple and full bodied Rioja, it is well balanced with notes of vanilla and minerals. An all around superb Rioja!

1999 Vina Santurnia Gran Reserva Rioja ($40.00) Notes of balsamic, plum and black cherry infuse this traditional style, medium bodied Rioja. Elegant, with notes of smoke and cedar that compliment silky tannins. Balanced and extremely well crafted, the Gran Reserva is smooth with a persistent finish. A knock out with any grilled meat.

 

NEW CHEESES

Los Beyos is a dense, compact, “peasant” style artisan cow’s milk cheese from the Asturias region of Spain. It has a unique flinty texture. The first bite’s slight chalkiness melts into a big, buttery, creamy texture with a well-balanced and tangy finish.

Valèe d’Aspe This pleasantly earthy and grassy raw cow and sheep’s milk farmstead Tomme is crafted by Basque artisans in the shadow of the Pyrenees. Firm, but not flaky, this cheese speaks of mountain terroir with nutty notes, vibrant tanginess, and an olive savoriness.

Young Majorero con Pimentòn Those of you already familiar with this exotic cheese from the Canary Islands will enjoy the younger version coated with Pimentòn from the same region. Majorero is unlike any other! Made from the aromatic rich milk of goats that graze on wild marjoram. Flavors of almonds and a spiciness make this a unique cheese. Pair this with full bodied and spicy red Tajinaste from the Canary Islands. – Jorge

 

“SPAIN 2009 – AN ABUNDANCE OF RICHES” was last week’s Wine Advocate sensational review of 600+ Spanish wines. With superb vintages in 2004 and 2005, and excellent 2006 and 2007 harvests, over 490 wines received a rating of 90 points or higher. We’ve been advocating little known Spanish wines since 1995 and it’s rewarding to see the wine press finally taking notice in a big way!

HIGHLY RATED WINES THAT WE HAVE IN STOCK:

2006 Clos Erasmus, Priorat – 97 points ($190.00) 3 bottles available “As usual Clos Erasmus is one of Spain’s finest wines. The 2006 Clos Erasmus offers an ethereal bouquet of balsam and sandalwood, incense, liquid mineral, black cherry, and black raspberry. Dense, rich, and voluptuous on the palate, it has plenty of well-concealed ripe tannin, tons of fruit, and potential complexity.”

2006 Flor de Pingus, Ribera del Duero – 94 points ($79.00) “The 2006 Flor de Pingus spent 14 months in new French oak. Deep purple in color, it gives up a superb bouquet of toasty oak, spice box, mineral, incense, black cherry, and blackberry. Youthful, full-bodied, intense, and powerful on the palate, it retains an elegant personality despite its size. Splendidly balanced, it will evolve for 4-6 years and deliver prime drinking from 2013 to 2026. It is a superb value in great wine considering that the price of Pingus Junior is one-tenth that of Pingus.”

2006 Alto Moncayo, Campo de Borja – 94 points ($42.00) 8 bottles available “The purple-colored 2006 Alto Moncayo was aged in new French and American oak for 17 months before bottling without filtration. It offers up a sexy concoction of toasty new oak, lavender, spice box, cassis, and black raspberry. Round, rich, and voluptuous on the palate, it delivers plenty of up-front pleasure but hides enough ripe tannin to evolve for a few years. It can be enjoyed now and over the next decade.”

2005 Castro Ventosa El Castro de Valtuille, Bierzo – 92 points ($34.00) “The 2005 El Castro de Valtuille offers some toasty oak notes, plum, violets, and black cherry in its expressive perfume. This leads to a medium-bodied, sweet, intensely flavored wine with flavors of spice box, cherry, and cranberry. Long and pure, it will provide pleasure over the next 4-6 years.”

2005 Muga Reserva Unfiltered, Rioja – 90 points ($25.99) Winemaker Jorge Muga feels that the harvests of 2001 and 2005 produced the best Reserva in their history. “The purple-colored 2005 Muga Reserva, a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, and the balance Mazuelo and Graciano. It was aged for six months in wood vats followed by two years in new French and American oak. It delivers an alluring nose of cedar, tobacco, earth notes, mineral, and black cherry. This is followed by an elegant wine with good depth and enough ripe tannin to evolve for several years. Nicely balanced and long in the finish, it will be at its best from 2012 to 2020 if not longer.”

 

NEW FOOD ARRIVALS:

Guava paste, 400 g and 600 g sizes

Napoleon grilled artichokes in oil (7.5 oz) We tossed these with pasta and halibut for a quick and delicious dinner this week.

Dona Maria Nopalitos (15 oz) Cactus leaves are used in salads, soups and tacos all across Mexico

Dona Maria Black Mole sauce (8.25 oz) Concentrated. Add liquid, heat and serve.

Annato Seed Achiote: 1 oz, 3 oz, 10 sizes

Mas Portell flavored olive oils: Lemon and Clementine are back!

 

FLAMENCO WORKSHOP WITH MARIA BERMEDUEZ FROM JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA

July 10, 11, and 12, 2009

Flamenco Arts Northwest presents a three day workshop with Maria “Chacha” Bermudez, Friday evening through Sunday afternoon. The legendary dancer and teacher from Jerez will teach two 90 minute levels each day of the workshop, accompanied by Marcos and Rubina on guitar and cante.

Workshop will be held at American Dance Institute, 8007 Greenwood Ave. North. Preregistration is strongly advised as this event always fills up quickly! Times and prices are posted at www.FANW.org (see calendar or workshops), or call Rubina at (206) 932-4067 for more information.

Enjoy our great summer, and come see us at the shop!

 

Sincerely,

 

Sharon Baden & Steve Winston, Owners

The Spanish Table

Turkish Travels

When we can get away from the store we typically head to Spain for hedonistic days of food sampling and drinking top-notch wines that we can’t afford at home. While our first love will always be Iberia, our palates are taking us into the far reaches of the Mediterranean these days. Which is why we took a trip to Turkey last week with our California partners, Andy and Tanya. We spent two amazing days in the cave dwellings of Cappadocia and then met friends in Istanbul. We dined like sultans on the vibrant Turkish cuisine. A vegetarian’s dream, every fantastic meal was loaded with salads, roasted vegetables, pulses and grains. Being carnivores, we dined on savory chicken pilaf in pastry, kebabs with sumac served over eggplant, and slow roasted lamb infused with oregano, paprika and yogurt. Now that we’re home, we’ll be recreating and sharing some of these recipes with the ingredients that we stock here at the shop. Stay tuned.
 

TURKISH COOKING
Cortas Pomegranate Molasses ($4.99/10 oz): In Turkey, this was used as an ingredient in salad dressing. Mixed with lemon & olive oil, it was terrific on mixed greens.
Cuisine Perel Pomegranate Balsamic Vinegar ($7.99/6.5 oz): A blend of balsamic, red wine vinegar and pomegranate concentrate, this will give salads an extra snap, or pour it over fresh strawberries and ice cream.
Turkish Cookbooks: The Ottoman Kitchen by Sarah Woodward ($20.00) has general culinary information as well as authentic recipes from Turkey and the Middle East. Great pictures of the countryside and recipes make this a pleasure to read.
TURKEY Mediterranean Cuisine ($16.99) Eleven chefs contributed to this book of traditional Turkish food. Contains step by step photos and easy to follow recipes.

NEW WINES THIS WEEK
2007 Campo Burgo Rioja ($8.99) Clean and bright with soft tannins, Campo Burgo has been aged in stainless steel. With a medium body and structured acidity, notes of cherry and plum, it could even be chilled slightly before serving. Excellent with fideo pasta and shrimp.
2007 Vinas de Olivara, Toro ($7.99) 87 points Wine Advocate Made from 100% Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo), this non-oaked red really over-delivers for the price. Aromatic, with notes of boysenberry, blueberry and mineral, it is full-bodied and gutsy. Subtle tannins are well balanced with acidity and wrap up with a distinctive and elegant finish.
2005 Marques de Campo Nuble Crianza Rioja ($12.99) 88 points Wine Advocate A modern Rioja that hasn’t forgotten its roots, it is made of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Garnacha. Warm and round red fruit flavors spring from the glass backed up by notes of licorice and cedar. A subtle amount of oak and balanced acidity make this Rioja a perfect wine to serve with any pork or lamb dish. This winery is new to the U.S. market and decided to forego advertising to keep their prices low. It is a superb value!
2006 Bodegas Marques de Olivara M.O., Toro ($12.99) Concentrated, bold and spicy, M.O. de Olivara is our go-to wine for brawny and affordable reds. 100% Tempranillo produced from 40-100 year old vines, M.O. is meaty, explosive and earthy with notes of mineral and black fruit. Aged 13 months in French oak, it is a steal at $12.99.
2004 Vaza Crianza Rioja, ($14.99) Vaza’s 18 months in oak give it an edgy smokiness tinged with juicy ripe cherry and black currant flavors. Notes of licorice are front and center on the palate, balanced by great acidity and moderate tannins. This is a tasty Rioja and will appeal to those who like a more fruit-forward style.
COLLECTOR’S CORNER
2005 Descendientes de Jose Palacios Corullon Bierzo ($57.00) 93 points Stephen Tanzer “Deep red. Smoky raspberry and cherry compote aromas are lifted by stony minerality and fresh rose. Deep, musky cherry and dark berry flavors display impressive poise, with firm tannins adding structure without distracting from the fruit. Turns brighter on the long, mineral-dominated finish, staining the palate with vibrant red berry flavors that cling tenaciously.”

 2006 Pingus, Ribera del Duero ($736.00) Quantities limited, available by special order.  95 points Stephen Tanzer “Opaque purple. Powerful, mineral-driven aromas of blackberry, blueberry, creme de cassis, incense and floral oils. Fresh dark berry flavors are youthfully crunchy and strikingly pure, with mounting spiciness and minerality. Silky tannins add support to the broad, palate-staining fruit but quickly fade away, allowing the exotic dark berry flavors to stand out. The mineral element clings impressively on the long, sappy, sweet finish. A superb showing…”

NEW PRODUCTS 
Flor de Sal (“Sea Flower” –$10.99/500 grams) are very thin crystals of sea salt formed at the surface of salt ponds, collected manually with the aid of a special tool. Collected daily, without allowing it to contact the pond’s bottom or sides, it is a product of natural purity, with a delicate flavor and prolonged finish on the palate. Considered the “Rolls Royce” of sea salt.
Sevillana Olives With Lemon: These rich green olives have a tart spicy flavor with lots of garlic and a little red pepper. Watch out for the pits!
Golden Peppadews: This hot sweet little yellow pepper is much like the red peppadew, with a little more meat and a slightly milder taste. Perfect for any place you would put red peppadews or mix them for a beautiful color contrast.
Organic Peruvian Bojita Olives: These organic bojita olives are known for their plump shape, firm meaty texture & tart flavor. They are grown on the high desert plains of Peru.
Manchego marinated in Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Sliced and ready to eat, put it on a bocadillo or serve it as a tapa with a dish of olives and a glass of fino sherry.
New container arrived today from Spain. We’ve now got a great selection of green glass. Ribbed tumblers, cruets, medium sangria glasses and malaga glasses are back in stock. And a new supply of rice has arrived just in time for paella season. Perdiz Bomba and Signo Valencian rice are on the shelf again.

News from the Spanish Table

I keep thinking about that summer afternoon in Ciutadella, Menorca.  We ate a fantastic seafood paella and paired it with a delicious crisp rose.  On the island of Menorca, paella is served with mayonnaise which was invented in Mahon, Menorca.  Here’s to good times and delicious memories!!

If you love paella, treat yourself to Taberna del Alabardero’s paella fest from March 16-22. Master paella chef David Montero is flying in from Marbella to prepare 12 different paellas. For details, contact Taberna del Alabardero Phone: 206.448.8884 www.alabardero.com/seattle

We met Steve Metzler and Almudena de Llaguno of Classical Wines in 1995 when we opened The Spanish Table. One of the first importers to recognize the enormous potential of Spanish wine, Steve and Almudena have been pivotal in introducing quality Spanish wines to American palates. Classical seeks out and nurtures family producers whose wines are made from local grape varieties and are pure expressions of the terroir. I was delighted to have lunch at Taberna del Alabardero recently to meet winemaker Isidro Fernandez Bello of Casar de Burbia, Classical Wine’s newest producer from the Bierzo region.

2006 Casar de Burbia Mencia, Bierzo ($26.99) In 1989, the Fernandez Bello family began acquiring and rehabilitating dozens of small parcels in Bierzo. They have created a contiguous property, traversed by the Camino de Santiago at altitudes up to 2300 feet. The vineyards’ perfect exposure and excellent drainage are enhanced by the region’s most mineral soils. Casar de Burbia is an outstanding expression of Mencia’s thick dark fruit. Aged in oak for 6 months, it is balanced, structured and elegant with a fresh minerality. 90 points International Wine Cellar

2006 Casar de Burbia Tebaida, Bierzo ($55.00) Grapes for Tebaida are selected bunches from old stock between 60 and 102 years old, grown at higher elevations of the estate. Concentrated, with beautiful clean aromas and flavors of black fruit, Tebaida is a pure expression of the terroir. Structured and clean, balanced with acidity and with notes of black pepper and mineral, the persistent finish is rich with sweet tannins. 92 points International Wine Cellar

To learn more about wines from Bierzo, here’s a link to a recent San Francisco Chronicle article: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2009/03/01/FDAF161O7H.DTL

The February 25, 2009 edition of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate features “Spain’s Top 100 Wine Values.” What could be more timely than a list of great wines for less than $25.00?

2006 Alto Moncayo Veraton, Campo de Borja ($23.99) is the top pick at 93 points. Made of 100% garnacha, Veraton is very spicy on the nose with “earth notes, wild black cherry and black raspberry. Dense, layered and full flavored on the palate, this hedonistic effort is balanced enough to evolve for several years…”

Parker’s second choice is 2007 Casal Novo Godello, Valdeorras ($24.99) Elegant and intense, it is full bodied and savory. Casal Novo is unoaked, fresh and clean with notes of dried pear, chalk and crushed rock. Spectacular with grilled shellfish, “it is loaded with succulent white fruits, has vibrant acidity and a lengthy, pure finish.” 92 points

More favorite Robert Parker Top 100 Spanish Wine Values in stock:

2006 Agusti Torello Mata Rosat Cava Brut Reserva, Penedes ($24.99) 92 points

2007 Lagar do Castelo Albarino, Rias Baixas ($14.99) 91 points

2004 Casa de Illana 3De5 (Ribera del Jucar) $14.99 90 points

OTHER VALUE WINES

2004 Vega Ibor, Tierra de Castilla ($8.99) With intense aromas of black currants and notes of licorice on the nose, Vega Ibor has an earthy mineral character. Aged 6 months in oak, and made of 100% Tempranillo, it has rich black cherry and boysenberry flavors. Well balanced with acidity, the presence of young wood combines seamlessly with the ripe fruit. Vega Ibor has a round, full body, sweet tannins, and a persistent aftertaste. Now on sale!

Our highly recommended 2006 Andeluna Malbec Winemaker’s Selection, Mendoza ($9.99) was the hands-down favorite at a wine tasting last weekend. Its balance of ripe fruit and acidity paired wonderfully with cassoulet.

Young Mahon: “What a Gouda wished it could be” (Steven Jenkins). Creamy and buttery with a lingering tangy finish. This semi-soft cow’s milk cheese from Menorca is perfect for melting–think grilled cheese bocadillos. A phenomenal cheese for a fabulous price. $15.99/lb. $3.99/quarter lb.

MitiBlue: A new blue made with sheep’s milk and Roquefort Penicillium. This soft velvety textured cheese reminds me of a cross between Buttermilk blue and French Roquefort. Definitely a new staff favorite! $23.99/lb. $5.99/quarter lb.

Cured Duck Salami: Rich and delicious, with perfectly balanced flavors and a juicy texture. Blended with fresh garlic, sea salt, and spices, the duck meat is then cured and hand tied. Slice some up and introduce a new flavor into your tapas!!

Duck Breast Cured & Dried: This duck breast is buttery, sweet, salty, and delicate. Thinly sliced and ready to eat, it is seasoned with sea salt, mixed peppercorns, brown sugar, and fresh garlic. Enjoy it the same way as Jamón Serrano. Try it in salads, sandwiches or on pizza.

Jose Andres made in Spain DVD, seasons 1 and 2: Spanish chef Jose Andres’ cooking show was originally shown on PBS as a series. Each season has 14 individual shows, focused on a region of Spain and its specialty foods. Travel with Jose to meet producers and then back to his demonstration kitchen to prepare recipes. $31.49 each season, 2 DVDs

Pintxos by Gerald Hirigoyen ($24.95), is the Basque chef’s long awaited tapas cookbook. Author of The Basque Kitchen, and owner of Piperade Restaurant in San Francisco, Hirigoyen introduced Piment d’Esplette to American cooks. In Pintxos, he adapts 75 authentic recipes for the home kitchen.

Blanched marcona almonds are back in stock!

Pinto Pinto

This morning’s snow flurries inspired some random memories from the past.  Most involved food.  Snowed in last December and yielding to the luxury of time, I slow cooked a cassoulet using Iberian meats and a sample bag of snowcap beans.  Snowcap beans are brown with a white “cap” on one side, colored just like the pinto pony I owned as an my adolescent.  The pony was a full-on ornery devil and my sister and I quickly learned to sprint away from his snapping teeth, which later served us well on the track team.  It may sound strange but I have great memories of those times!  But back to my cassoulet.  To my delight, the beans were much easier to handle than my pony.  Firm textured with an earthy nuttiness, they perfectly complimented the jamon serrano, linguica and herbs in the cassoulet.   And best of all, they retain their color after cooking which makes them beautiful in a salad.  $4.99/16 oz bag.
My cassoulet was a modified version of Paula Wolfert’s recipe from Food and Wine magazine: http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/toulouse-style-cassoulet
Modifications: I omitted the pork skin, salt pork and duck fat.  Used Barcelos mild linguica rather than French sausage, Jamon Serrano in place of the pancetta and prosciutto, chicken thighs in place of duck confit, olive oil rather than duck fat, and the snowcap beans.  Otherwise, I followed Wolfert’s recipe for the ultimate comfort food on a winter’s day.

FAST AND EASY COOKING: Here are some recent simple dishes that came from our cupboard and freezer.
Aegean Toasts topped with aioli and marinated artichokes.  Great snack!
Matiz Garbanzo Beans baked with Miguel & Valentino Purple Garlic and Pimentón De La Vera.  Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Drain and rinse one 7.5 oz jar of beans.  In a medium cazuela (20cm or so), heat one tablespoon Extra Virgin Olive Oil, one teaspoon garlic, one teaspoon pimentón.  Stir in the beans and bake in the oven for 20 minutes while you prepare the main course.
Merguez Sausages:   We’re so hooked on these sausages that we keep a package in the freezer at all times.   Made of lamb, a small amount of beef, harissa (hot pepper sauce), garlic and herbs, they have just the right amount of heat.  Best grilled, they have no MSG, no preservatives and no artificial flavors.  $9.99/12 oz

NEW PRODUCTS
Dijon-style mustards From KL Keller were featured in this week‘s New York Times.  We have all three flavors in stock: Plain ($4.50), Banyuls ($7.50) and Truffle ($15.00).  For more details, click on this link:  http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/25/dining/25must.html?_r=1&emc=eta1
Agave Nectar: A natural sugar alternative made from the same plant that gives us tequila, agave nectar is sweeter than cane sugar.  Containing a lower glycemic index, it does not quickly raise blood sugar levels.  Great in cocktails!
Virgin of Guadalupe Temporary Tattoos:  Easy on, easy off.  $2.99 for package of two.

NEW WINES THIS WEEK:
2007 Ludovicus  (Terra Alta) $9.99 Celler Piñol is a family-run bodega dedicated to quality, located in a region dominated by large cooperatives.  A blend of garnacha, tempranillo, syrah, and cabernet, its depth of ripe bramble fruit is immediately satisfying.  With notes of smooth chocolate, tobacco and earth, Ludovicus has a spicy accent of black pepper on the finish.
2005 Espelt – Saulo (Emporda) $9.99 New vintage!  I tasted this vintage last May and have  been anxiously awaiting its arrival ever since.  Grown in vineyards located near the Mediterranean just north of Barcelona, it’s made from 60% Garnacha and 40% Carinena.  With bright black cherry and berry flavors, great lift and an edge of licorice, it is round and soft on the palate.  “..Open knit raspberry and blackberry fruit and an absence of obvious tannins make this lush blend delicious right now.”  89 points Stephen Tanzer
2006 Borsao Crianza Seleccion, (Campo de Borja)  $14.99 “Saturated ruby-red. Blackberry and blueberry aromas are complicated by incense and dried flowers. Juicy dark berry flavors are liqueur-like in richness, with nervy minerality adding energy. Becomes fleshier and sweeter on the finish, which echoes the floral note. Pretty sexy stuff.”  90 points Stephen Tanzer

Calem Old Friends Tawny Port ($6.99/200 ml) Tuck one of these small bottles in your back pack the next time you head out on the cross country ski trail.  Almond, hazelnut and caramel flavors will bring warmth and pleasure on a cold day.

NEW RELEASE OF SPECIAL OCCASION WINES
2006 Clos Erasmus, Priorat $190.00 Annual allocation arrived today, 3 bottles available.  Winemaker Daphne Glorian is one of the famed young pioneers of the Priorat region, who realized the enormous potential of the ancient vines, schist soils and vertiginous hillsides in the early 1980‘s.   One of the ultimate terroir-driven wines and made in extremely limited quantities, the 2005 Clos Erasmus was rated 100 by Wine Advocate.
1998 Vega Sicilia Unico, Ribera del Duero $400.00 “Ruby-red. Exotic aromas of red and dark fruits, iron, dried flowers, cured meat and tobacco are strongly reminiscent of a top vintage of Chateau Haut-Brion. Luscious cherry and cassis flavors display a superb balance of depth and structure, offering noteworthy power but a weightless quality that is simply uncanny. Candied flowers, smoky minerals and vanilla bean add complexity and extend through an endless finish. I’d love to sneak this into a tasting of 1998 Saint-Emilion and Graves wines in ten years or so.”  96 points Stephen Tanzer, 98 points Robert Parker

NEW BEERS IN STOCK:
INEDIT (Spain)  $9.99/750 ml: A partnership between Ferran Adria, El Bulli’s sommelier’s team and Estrella Damm, this is the first beer specifically created to accompany food.  A unique blend of barley malt with wheat, hops, coriander, orange peel, licorice, yeast and water.  A secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle, adding to the complexity.
Cusquena (Peru) $9.99/6 pack:  100% malt lager, nicknamed “Gold of the Inkas”.  Smooth and golden, perfect with any spicy foods.

CHEESE CORNER
Naked Goat (Murcia) New!  This fabulous 6 month aged goat cheese from Spain is produced with raw milk.  Naked Goat is mild and creamy with a tangy, sweet finish, perfect for melting.  Pair with almonds in honey or a crisp white wine.
Torta La Serena (Extremadura) is a soft, 60-day aged, raw sheep’s milk cheese made with thistle flower.  One of our favorite cheeses from Extremadura, La Serena starts out deliciously runny and then firms up with age.  Rich and creamy, it combines a fruity sharpness with an earthy, pungent flavor.  As it ages, the rind becomes leathery and the interior ripens to a spreadable paste.

Tour de Tiendas

We are just back from a Tour de Tiendas, visiting our stores in Santa Fe and San Francisco.  Sunny weather welcomed us everywhere and it felt sooo great.
At 7000 feet, the high desert air of Santa Fe was crisp and invigorating.  Always captivated by this city’s mix of Spanish, Native American and Mexican history and the natural beauty of the landscape, we’re also addicted to the New Mexican red and green chiles.   Our manager, Karen Squires, hosted the whole staff for an awesome New Mexican potluck.  Carne adovado marinated and slow cooked in red chile sauce made by chef and employee, Adrian Perez with peppers from his own garden. Red and green New Mexican style tamales, posole, pinto beans and chicos rounded out the menu.  Dessert was sweet tamales filled with native pine nuts, raisins and local honey.
We loved the food at La Boca, Chef James Campbell Caruso’s tapas restaurant.  Former chef at El Farol, he wrote the cookbook that we still recommend to customers looking for a contemporary interpretation of tapas.  James is a customer of The Spanish Table and his menu reflects several of our new products, many with a Moroccan influence.  But our favorite tapa was all Spanish: Asparagus spears dressed with Casa Pons White Truffle Olive Oil, dusted with Matiz Smoked Sea Salt and topped with shavings of aged manchego cheese. 
WINES WE TASTED ON OUR TRIP:                 
The Alto Moncayo Veraton (Campo de Borja) $23.99 paired wonderfully with our picante New Mexican potluck.  Its spicy and ripe red fruit with a deep mineral and white pepper finish was absolutely delicious.    Limited quantities available    91 points Stephen Tanzer           
We sampled wines by the glass at La Boca, pairing them with rich flavors of James’ tapas. 
Portuguese wine 2001 Ardosino Douro ($15.99) was fantastic with grilled artichoke hearts and goat cheese.   Ardosino has an earthy minerality with flavors of currant, real elegance and bright acidity that makes it a great combination with any grilled foods.
2003 Loriñon Rioja Reserva ($18.99) was terrific with spicy lamb meatballs in yogurt-mint sauce.  From a less than stellar vintage, the 2003 Loriñon sings with red cherry, black tea and sweet spice notes integrated with a toasty balsamic finish.   Delicious!
ECONOMIC STIMULUS PACKAGE:   50 under $10:
These are frugal times and after a lot of tasting, we have selected 50 wines under $10 that will allow you to enjoy life without breaking your budget.  Stop by, pick out a dozen of them and get a 10% case discount.  That brings you price down to only $9 a bottle!
NEW VALUE WINES THIS WEEK:
2007 Garnacha de Fuego Old Vines (Calatayud) $7.99   Big and powerful, the grapes for this wine are grown in a desolate, arid area which produces ripe and concentrated fruit.   With intense aromas of sweet cherries and dark plums, Garnacha de Fuego has considerable depth and finesse.  With an exotic spicy finish reminiscent of white pepper, it is great with taco truck fare.
2007 Casa Gualda Tempranillo (La Mancha) $8.99 Think fruity pie cherry with an earthy minerality.  Smoky and low in acidity, Casa Gualda is easy drinking and great for the pocketbook!
SHERRY ARTICLE
Here at The Spanish Table, our appreciation of unique Sherries is evident by our selection – the largest outside of Spain.  Vastly underappreciated, and one of wine’s greatest values (how many wines are available for $45.00 that have been barrel aged for at least 20 years?), sherry is finally getting its due.  If you’d like to learn more about sherry, check out the recent comprehensive article from the San Francisco Chronicle:  http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/01/15/WINR159ONQ.DTL&hw=gonzalez+byass+alfonso&sn=001&sc=1000
 
INGREDIENTS: In Jan 11th The New York Times travel section, Paula Wolfert singled out Moroccan cumin as something she brings back in her suitcase.  Luckily, it is easy to get just by visiting The Spanish Table, thanks to Mustapha Haddouch who buys his directly from the farmer in Morocco.  He also deals directly with the farmer for his saffron.
TWO CHEESES SPECIALS: We were able to make a special purchase on these two cheeses:
Veigadarte   Sometimes referred to as Humbolt Fog on Steroids, Veigadarte is rolled in oak ash and covered by a thick bloomy white rind. Beautiful on a cheese platter with its black and white outline and soft texture, this artisanal cheese uses the milk of two different goat breeds.  With a high butterfat content and the characteristic tang of a goat’s milk, it is distinctive and delicious.  Was: $7.00; Now $5.75/quarter lb.
Drap Made of 100% cow’s milk, Drap has all of its characteristic butteriness with the herbaceous nuances of a goats milk cheese.   Was 9.00/quarter lb; Now 5.75/quarter lb.
TWO NEW CHEESES:
Cantell Goat Cheese  This compact, crumbly and granular goat cheese is aged roughly 4 months. Its fully developed, complex flavor has hints of dry fruits with a herbaceous tangy finish. This rare goat cheese from Catalonia is one of the finest cheeses made by Nevat cheese maker, Joseph. We are offering this cheese only for a limited time.  Now $9.99/quarter lb.
Idiazabal  This unpasteurized sheep’s’ milk cheese is the absolute best Idiazabal on the market. Traditionally, Basque shepherds lived in small mountain huts and due to lack of space, stored and aged their cheese inside stone chimneys. Lana, producer of this Gran Reserva Idiazabal maintain these cheese making traditions, and it reveals itself with wonderfully buttery, lightly smoked, aromatic and tangy flavors. Now $6.50/quarter lb.

Christmas in London

CHRISTMAS IN LONDON:  Two of The Spanish Table alumni have relocated to merry olde England. Libby managed the Seattle store, then opened our Berkeley store in 2001, and is now attending graduate school in London.  Megan Keister has relocated to Expedia’s London office. They both are looking forward to a Dickens of a Christmas!
GREAT GIFTS; SUPER STOCKING STUFFERS:  Here at The Spanish Table, we’re loaded with gifts and stocking stuffers that are practical and useful.  A dozen new cookbooks with recipes from places as diverse as Spain’s El Bulli to the villages of Turkey.  Black cazuelas and bean pots.  Olive wood bowls and spatulas. 2009 Calendars.  Plus a full range of tagines both for cooking and serving the exotic dish we fell in love with during our visit to Morocco last May as well as the flavorful, aromatic spices that bring the Kasbah home.
FOOD PRODUCTS: For the holiday host and hostess, we have cured meats and gourmet cheese and an unmatched selection of Spanish, Portuguese and Argentine wines as well as ports Sherries and Madeiras in a full range of prices to fill any entertainment or gift needs.
CHOCOLATE COVERED ALFAJORES!  Argentina’s Dulce de Leche filled treats!
PECES BRAND FIGURITAS DE MAZAPÁN: Direct from Consuegra (Toledo) Spain.
CATALAN OLIVES:  Bold and spicy Catalan green olives. These large green olives have semi-soft flesh and are marinated in celery, garlic, curry and hot pepper. Those of you that like it picante will enjoy these olives for sure!
LOMO FROM SPAIN: We now stock Palacios brand Lomo Embuchado!  Made in La Rioja, the cured pork tenderloin is seasoned with garlic, smoky pimentón, and sea salt. Slice and serve, or make a simple sandwich with an olive oil-brushed baguette and slices of young Manchego.
O DE OLIVA: Varietal olive oils from three of Spain’s great olives.  Choose from sweet Cuquillo, fruity Hojiblanca or bold, bitter Picual.  Experience the difference!
NUTELLA, COCOKREM OR NOCILLA?  My niece and I discovered Nutella last year when we were riding horses in Ireland.  Each afternoon we’d treat ourselves to biscuits topped with the delightful hazelnut-chocolate spread and now it’s my daily habit!  Cokokrem from Turkey is thicker with more chocolate flavor.  My favorite is still the Nocilla from Spain.  Rich and creamy, its dense chocolate will satisfy any chocoholic.
Our CHEESE CASE is burgeoning with many, many delectable cheeses!  Here are a few selections and recommendations for combining them into a cheese platter.
TORTA DEL CASAR from Extremadura is one of Spain’s most famous cheeses.  Rich and buttery, this raw sheep’s milk, washed-rind cheese takes 20 sheep milked twice daily to create just one wheel of cheese. Serve by cutting off the top and spooning out the delightfully oozy center.   Due to its delicate nature, it is sold only as a full wheel.
MAHON ARTISANAL: The famous cheesemonger, Stephen Jenkins, is quoted as saying, “Mahon: what Gouda wished it could be.” Mahon Artisanal is the raw milk version of this cheese–rarely brought to the U.S.! This cow’s milk cheese from Menorca has a golden orange rind with a sharp, salty, buttery, interior. Mahon can hold its own with many of Spain’s sheep and goat milk cheeses, and is my #1 recommendation for pairing on a cheese platter. 
SUGGESTED CHEESE AND PATE PLATTERS:
Catalan Platter:  Drap, Ros, Montcabrer, Nevat
Portuguese Platter:  Dom Villas, Queijo Amarelo, Queijo Cabra Quinta
Basque Platter:  Montcayol, Kaikou, Le Bleu de Basque, Idiazabal                       
Artisanal Platter:  Mahon Artisanal, Roncal, Monte Enebro, Peña Corado
Pate Platter: Truffle Mousse, Coarse Campangne with cornichons and dry cured black.olives.
NEW WINES THIS WEEK:
We have too many wonderful wines under $15 (even under $10) to enumerate them here but if you are having a party, we can put a great wine in your guest’s hands with busting your budget.
2007 Tres Picos Garnacha, Campo de Borja $15.99 New vintage!   Just off the boat and already drinking better than the 2006, this is a rich and balanced garnacha.   Produced from low yielding vineyards, Tres Picos has concentrated flavors of blackberries and strawberries with notes of black pepper, vanilla and plums.   90 points Stephen Tanzer
2005 Pago Florentino, La Mancha $19.99 100% Cencibel (called Tempranillo in other parts of Spain), this is a staff favorite.   Lavishly oaked and teeming with ripe black fruit, this is an unctuous and modern wine.   Full bodied with notes of smoke and balanced with fine acidity and a long spicy finish, this is all around a delicious wine.  
2006 Alto Moncayo Veraton Campo De Borja $23.99 Veraton arrived a week ago and we scooped up 18 bottles before the distributor sold out.  “Very spicy on the nose, which displays blackberry, blueberry, white pepper and cinnamon qualities.  Sappy dark berry flavors combine intensity with depth, picking up candied licorice with air.   … This went through several changes in the glass and is utterly delicious now.”   91 points Stephen Tanzer                 
2006 Alto Moncayo Campo De Borja $42.00 12 bottles available “Impressively complex, seductive bouquet of dark berry preserves, tobacco, graphite, and smoky Indian spices.  Pliant black raspberry and candied cherry flavors are enlivened by zesty minerals and firmed by fine-grained tannins.  An exotic floral pastille quality emerges with air and carries into the finish, which is strikingly sweet, lively and persistent.”  93 points Stephen Tanzer
2005 Alvaro Palacios Les Terrasses Priorat ($38.00) “A more affordable introduction to his intense, elegant style.”   90 points Wine Spectator
COLLECTOR’S CORNER
2000 Marques de Murrieta Ygay Gran Reserva Especial Rioja $57.00 “Offers up an enticing perfume of cedar, pencil lead, earth notes and black fruits… a supple textured, layered wine with ample black cherry.” 93 points Wine & Spirits, 90 points Robert Parker2005 Bodegas y Vinas Dos Victorias Gran Elias Mora Toro $83.00 “Has an iron grip now, but there’s impressive concentration.  Shows rich cassis, coffee, anise and tar notes.”   2 bottles available   95 points Wine Spectator
2005 Bodegas y Vinas Dos Victorias Elias Mora Crianza Toro  $40.00 “Best value which shows a core of cassis, currant and espresso flavors.”  93 points Wine Spectator
2004 Bodegas y Vinedos Maurodos San Roman Toro ($57.00) “Alluring plum, blackberry, cola and spice cake flavors are rich and balanced in this expressive red…”  94 points Wine Spectator  One of Wine Spectator’s Top 15 Spanish Wines of 2008
WARRES VINTAGE PORTS:   We’ve just received a limited number of these ports:
1980 Vintage $109.00 “A solid port from an unsung vintage.”
1985 Vintage $112.00 “… Grape, chocolate and plum.  Full and chewy.”  91 points Wine Spectator
1991 Vintage $90.00 “Raisiny and very sweet, with plum and prune flavors.”  90 points Wine Spectator
1994 Vintage $103.00 …”fabulous concentration and complex character.  Full bodied, with velvety tannins… Beautiful wine.  Best after 2008.”   95 points Wine Spectator
RESTAURANT NEWS:  We were thrilled when highly regarded Spanish restaurant Taberna del Alabardero opened yesterday in the former Cascadia location on First Avenue in Belltown.  We noshed on a fantastic array of tapas at their Sevilla location a few years ago and will be checking out their Seattle location very, very soon!  Their Washington D.C. location was named the “best Spanish restaurant outside of Spain.”  Purple Wine Bar’s newest venture, Barrio is now open on 12th, near Pike.  Modern Mexican in a space saturated in ambience, terrific food at wallet-friendly prices and a great wine list.