A New Twist on an Old Favorite

August 21, 2001

Numerous years ago, before we discovered Spain, we took many a road trip to Northern California in the old Dodge van. We camped at Crater Lake, spent time in Mendocino, and loaded up the van with Zinfindels from Napa and Sonoma. So when we were invited to do a cookbook signing and paella demonstration at the Point Reyes Farmer’s Market last weekend, we couldn’t pass it up.  

Point Reyes is located about an hour north of our Mill Valley shop. It’s a forty mile long peninsula jutting into the Pacific ocean and is populated with dairy farms whose placid bovines roam bucolic pastures and provide the raw material for the famous Point Reyes cheese.

The best part of making a paella at a farmer’s market, aside from the great breakfast choices like pork-tomatillo panini, is the array of incredible fresh ingredients.

We brought Zoe Meats chorizo with us, and added fresh onions, garlic, squash, peppers, green and purple beans, piquillo peppers, Ferrer brand Sofrito sauce, saffron, rice and chicken stock and finished it with squash blossoms. It looked amazing and the flavor was sublime! It was the best kind of make-it-up-on-the-spot recipe but also may be tough to replicate.

And the next time you’re in Point Reyes, make sure to dine at Osteria Stellina. It was fantastic!

www.osteriastellina.com

Being close to our Bay Area locations meant that we also cooked paellas at each store.

Our Amontillado and Chicken Paella with Chorizo is always a crowd pleaser and the ultimate in simplicity, perfect for a paella demo. Recipe from The Spanish Table cookbook: (serves 4)

 

1/4 cup Spanish olive oil

4 chicken thighs

Approximately 16 strands of saffron

1 large onion, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

2 links Spanish chorizo

2 cups Spanish short-grain Valencian rice, preferably bomba

1 cup medium dry Amontillado sherry

3 cups chicken stock

Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch paella pan and brown the chicken. Stir in the onions, sautéing until wilted, and then add the garlic, cooking another minute or two. Add the chorizo and cook until the fat is released. Then stir in the rice to coat and add the sherry.

Bring to a boil. When the sherry is absorbed by the rice, add the stock and saffron, reduce the heat, and simmer until the rice is done, about 20-25 minutes.

 

Jehan cleaned up the pan in front of our Berkeley store.

 

 

NEW WHITE WINES

2008 Cabriz Encruzado, Dao ($13.99) A single vineyard wine, Cabriz is made from the Encruzado grape, and produced in limited quantities. Aged 6 months in oak using the battonage process, it has flavors of crisp pear and buttered toast . A creamy texture with a dry and lingering finish make this a wonderful accompaniment to seafood in cream sauce.

2008 Sete Cepas Albariño, Rias Baixas ($17.99)

Very much a family project, Sete Cepas refers to the wine making team of 7 brothers. Produced near the coast, each sip has the tang of sea air with aromas of white peach. Loaded with minerality and lemon zest flavors, Sete Cepas has lively acidity with notes of stone fruit, pear and great finesse. Excellent with shellfish!

Luis Pato Maria Gomez Bruto Vinho Espumante ($14.99) The Maria Gomez grape (called Fernáo Pires in other regions of Portugal) has extraordinary aromas and capacity to produce distinctive wines with strong character. Maria Gomez Bruto is a light and crisp sparkling wine showing the delicate floral and orange-lime citrus flavors characteristic of the grape. A persistent, dry finish with soft bubbles make this a terrific choice for pairing with rich cheeses or seafood.

Luis Pato Casta Baga Bruto Rosé Vinho Espumante ($14.99) Luis Pato is one of the most respected oenologists in Portugal and has earned the nickname “King of Baga”. The Baga grape is complex, with powerful tannins and ripe berry flavors and Casta Baga Bruto Rosé exemplifies Luis Pato’s mastery of this grape. A crisp and dry sparkling rosé wine, it shows minerality along with its full fruit flavors. The typical structured tannins are subdued into a silky finish in this delightful rosé. Absolutely divine with roast suckling pig, the signature dish of Pato’s region.

NEW RED WINES

2007 Andeluna Malbec, Mendoza ($8.99) Hand crafted in collaboration with Michel Rolland, Andeluna Malbec has a touch of Merlot and Cabernet, and 7 months aging in French and American oak. Round and ripe flavors of plum, cherry and blackberry are rounded out by notes of chocolate. Lush black currant and coffee compliment the sweet tannins and produce an exceptional value. Serve it with grilled lamb burgers!

2005 Rondan Crianza (Rioja) $11.99 The new vintage of Rondan Crianza is one of our favorite value Riojas. Produced from 90% Tempranillo and 10% Garnacha, the grapes are hand picked and aged in American oak for 18 months. With intense depth of black cherry flavors and notes of pepper and musk, this is a traditional Rioja with clean fruit flavors. Ample but not overpowering tannins with balanced acidity make this a great food wine. Serve it with pork or rice dishes.

2001 Marques de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial Rioja ($60.00) Just arrived! 2001 was a legendary vintage, and this wine was featured in last week’s New York Times Rioja article. “Impressively complex bouquet of dried red fruits, tobacco, cedar and potpourri. A spicy, subtly sweet midweight, offering lively redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors and very soft tannins. The smoky finish features a strong echo of cedary spice.” 92 points Stephen Tanzer

To read the New York Times article, follow this link: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/12/dining/12pour.html?_r=1&scp=2&sq=rioja&st=cse

2006 Don Nicanor Blend, Mendoza ($17.99) A blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot, this Argentinean red is full-bodied with concentrated ripe berry and casssis notes. 12 months of aging in new French oak provide notes of vanilla and lush tannins. The pure finish has a touch of cherry skin and black tea. This is a complex wine, extremely well balanced and a fantastic match for grilled steak with blue cheese.

DELI SPECIALS

Zoe Meats Chorizo

New Sale Price $20.99

Our all time favorite chorizo is now on sale. These ‘food service’ size chorizos are over a pound and a half. They are the definitely the best value and the tastiest chorizo in our case. We recommend slicing and serving as a tapa or making Bocadillos.

Zamorano Cheese

Most of you are familiar with this artisanal Spanish cheese produced in Castilla Leon, in the Zamorano province. It is made with milk from the Churra Eve sheep which is high in fat and gives particularly high-quality milk. Complex, full bodied, moist and subtly tangy with lingering parmesan notes. Serve Zamorano with ham, melon, pears, tomatoes, crusty bead and a solid Spanish red wine.

Now available pre-cut in our deli grab-and-go case. Sale price: $17.99/lb.

 

NEW PRODUCTS

The New Portuguese Table cookbook by David Leite ($32.50) Written by the American-born son of an immigrant Portuguese family, David Leite learned to cook hearty Portuguese dishes at his grandmother’s side. Traveling to Portugal, the author discovered the traditional ingredients reimagined in modern cuisine and was inspired to write this cookbook. Leite melds the classic and contemporary, introducing innovative modern dishes in over 100 recipes.

Dende Oil – Also called palm oil, it is an essential ingredient in moqueca, the sumptious Brazilian seafood stew

Homemade Plum Membrillo from Spain, made from quince and plum.

Valenciano crackers flavored with Rosemary

Reganas - Andalucian tapas crackers made with Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Guarana Brazilian soft drinks, now including Diet!

Wild Lavender Honey from Murcia Spain – Excellent with goat cheese!

 

SPANISH WINE DINNER

Join us at Taberna del Alabardero for a selected tasting of Jorge Ordonez wines, on Wednesday Sept. 2nd, 6 p.m. Special attendance by Sara Floyd, M.S. who will talk about the five wines, each paired with a separate course. $75.00 (tax and service charge not included). For reservations and information: 206.448.8884, for more details, click this link:

http://www.alabardero.com/seattle/2-September-09Jorge%20Ordonez%20DinnerWEB.pdf

 

FLAMENCO PERFORMANCE

Saturday August 22nd Carmona Flamenco, featuring guest artist Ana Montes. 8:00 p.m., Solstice Cafe, 4116 University Way $20.00 information: 206.932.4067 http://www.fanw.org

 

Have a great week!

 

Sincerely,

 

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, Owners

The Spanish Table

A Segovian Gold Mine

The Elusive Pago de Carraovejas

July 30, 2009

Established by Segovian restauranteur and sommelier Jose Maria Ruiz, Bodegas Pago de Carraovejas has become one of the crown jewels of Ribera del Duero wines. Jose Maria’s insistence on excellence has driven these wines onto the “must have” list of all quality restaurants in Spain. Only 10% of production is exported. Every vintage quickly sells out and allocations are becoming more difficult to come by. Our Bay Area stores have been lucky enough to obtain a small amount of the recent vintages, and it knocked my socks off when I tasted it earlier this year. We’ve had countless customer requests for this wine and for months the distributor has repeated “it’s coming..” it’s coming…”

Happenstance rewarded us once again in Spain. Unwittingly, we stumbled into a tapas gold mine at El Descanso de Juan Pacheco in Segovia. Along with fantastic food, Pago de 

Carraovejas was being poured like water!

Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva… by the glass… by the bottle… no limits.

And now that we’ve returned from Spain, finally, last week we received two cases of the 2006 Crianza. Another case “is coming..”

A single vineyard wine, 2006 Pago de Carraovejas Crianza is a blend of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. Aged for 12 months in oak barrels, it is an intense cherry color with purple tones. The nose is filled with ripe fruit aromas of black berries and spices. Flavors of tar and boysenberry slowly spread over the palate with glycerin contributing a rich fruity mouth feel. Well integrated oak, notes of coffee and cacao with supple tannins. Concentrated and intense, it has herbal notes with a smooth and persistent finish. A powerful and effusive wine, here is a rare opportunity to experience this wine outside of Spain! 2006 Pago de Carraovejas Crianza (Ribera del Duero) $40.00. Only 34 bottles available.

 

NEW WINES THIS WEEK

2007 Torres Sangre de Toro Tempranillo, Penedes ($7.99)  The Torres family has been producing wines in Catalunya since the late 1800’s. Their consistent production of quality wines at all price levels has earned them a loyal customer base. Sangre de Toro Tempranillo is a new wine developed by Torres. An absolute bargain, its juicy cherry flavors with hints of smoke have solid complexity for the price. “Impressively supple wine with strong finishing sweetness and focus. Packs a lot of punch and honest fruit for the money.” 87 points Stephen Tanzer

2007 Vina Gormaz, Ribera del Duero ($9.99) A former co-op, this recently-privatized company controls the majority of acreage in Ribera del Duero’s Soria province. Containing the highest remaining percentage of old vine, head-pruned Tempranillo, Vina Gormaz’s focus is upon complexity and elegance without oak aging. The 2007 vintage has deep wild berry aromas, fruit forward juicy blackberry flavors and ample but balanced tannins. This tasty wine is one to enjoy young.

2007 Tres Ojos Old Vines Garnacha, Calatayud $9.99)  Exemplifying all of the wild red fruit and spice of pure Garnacha, Tres Ojos is a pleasure to drink. Juicy black cherry flavors have just enough white pepper spiciness to provide zest. Clean, with energizing lift and a persistent finish, Tres Ojos a great all-around food wine and a great value!

2007 Finca Resalso, Ribera del Duero ($13.99) Producedby Bodegas Emilio Moro, Finca Resalso is a wine produced from Moro’s younger vineyards. Four months of aging in oak give structure with fine tannins, vibrant fruit flavors, and well balanced acidity. “Dark ruby-colored, it emits an enticing perfume of mineral, violets, black cherry, and blackberry. On the palate it reveals an elegant personality, savory, spicy flavors, good depth, and a fruit-filled finish. Drink this tasty effort over the next four years.” 90 points Wine Advocate

2006 Luigi Bosca Malbec Reserva, Mendoza ($19.99) Produced from low yielding vines at an altitude of 960 meters, made of 100% Malbec, it is aged 12 months in oak casks. Full bodied with aromas of bing cherry, it has flavors of concentrated kirsch liqueur, notes of coffee, spices and pepper. Elegant, with round and sweet tannins, this has the potential to age for up to 10 years. When we tasted this against a limited release ($120.00) Malbec, Luigi Bosca completely over delivered for a fraction of the price. Highly recommended!

 

Last week’s New York Times article about wines from D.O. Ribera Sacra generated a ton of inquiries. We’ve located another wine mentioned in the article: 2007 Guimaro, (Ribera Sacra) $17.99 “Light bodied, juicy, inexpensive wines with a welcome earthy touch.”

 

HOT WEATHER BEVERAGES

When the thermometer tops 90 degrees and your house has no air conditioning, what do you do? My favorite heat-beating activities: Go swimming in Lake Washington, have a picnic at Lincoln Park, and sip a cold, cold, beverage.

Some our our favorite cold drinks:

Estrella Damm Beer from Spain: $9.99 per six pack

Cusquena Lager Beer from Peru: $9.99 per six pack

Sagres Lager Beer from Portugal: $8.99 per six pack

Casa Beer from Morrocco: $1.99 per 11 oz bottle

Estrella Damm Inedit Beer: Developed by Ferran Adria of El Bulli, this beer was specifically developed to serve with food. $9.99/750 ml bottle

2007 Senorio de Sarria rose, (Navarra) Seafair Special — Was $9.99, now $5.99! Navarra is the traditional home of Spanish rosados. Senorio de Sarria’s bright aromas and flavors of fresh strawberries are front and center in this tasty rose. 100% Garnacha, it is crisp, dry and the ultimate refreshment on a hot day.

2009 Casal Garcia rose vino verde ($8.99) took Seattle by storm during our first heat wave. We couldn’t keep it in stock and neither could the distributor. But thankfully it’s back, just in time for the hot weather! Light berry and pie cherry flavors with a thirst quenching effervesence and 10.5% alcohol make this a perfect wine to sip at an afternoon get-together.

2008 Protos Verdejo, Rueda ($10.99) The grapes for this wine are hand picked and kept at low temperature to preserve freshness. Protos Verdejo has clean aromas of grapefruit with lush citrus flavors, vibrant acidity and a persistent green apple finish. Pair this with ceviche for a light and cooling dinner.

 

PICNIC CHEESES

Gardunha: A washed rind goat cheese from Portugal made with a milk thistle rennet. The semi-soft creamy texture is complimented by aromatic citrus zest. It’s lighly piquant flavor is grassy, slightly tangy & floral with white pepper and onion tones. $7.99/quarter lb.

Abrigo: 5 month-aged goat cheese in the format of Tronchón from the town of Catí in the region of Valencia. Abrigo is wonderfully herbaceous,sweet, grassy, slightly piquant and full-flavored with a lingering tangy finish. $5.99/quarter lb.

Serra de Estrella: Queijo Serra da Estrela comes from one of the coldest and highest regions of Portugal. These savory wheels of raw sheep’s milk cheese are made with cardoon thistle, raw sheep’s milk, and salt and can boast Portugal’s DOP name protection. Traditionally scooped out of its leathery cloth-bound rind with pieces of hearty peasant bread, Serra is a a soft, gooey, mildly herbaceous delight. As the wheels age, the paste becomes harder and chewier, but no less delicious. Pair Serra da Estrela with spicier reds like Pinot Noir or Syrah. $10.75/quarter lb.

 

NEW PRODUCTS JUST ARRIVED!

Roland brand Duck and Pork Pates

La Espanola brand Piquillo Stuffed Olives

Dried Red Guindilla Peppers

Despana brand Chorizo and Morcilla

Costa Peruana Aji Amarillo chili paste from Peru. No preservatives!

Grey Mullet Bottarga Powder

 

Stay cool, enjoy the Blue Angels and the Hydroplane races this weekend, and stop in to pick up your picnic supplies!

 

Sincerely,

 

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, Owners

Spanish Table

Travels in Rueda

Travels in Rueda

July 1, 2009

Driving out of Segovia raving over last night’s tapas of grilled asparagus, zucchini, shrimp, garlic and smoked salt, we head for La Seca in the heart of D.O. Rueda. Now widely renowned for its fresh white wines made from Verdejo, in the 1970s, the Verdejo grape was practically wiped out by more prolific varieties such as Viura and Palomino. Visionary Angel Rodríguez realized the treasure in his 17th-century Martinsancho Verdejo vineyard and refused to uproot it. For his untiring efforts in reestablishing Verdejo’s prominence in its region of origin he was officially honored by King Juan Carlos.

Angel Rodriguez in his vineyard

The majuelo (plot) of Martínsancho is less than an acre of gnarled vines, preserved in isolation as a museum of prephylloxera viticulture and as a continuing source of undisputed varietal authenticity, treasured by nurseries throughout Europe. In 1976, Angel regrafted 25 acres of his best vineyard, using Martínsancho cuttings. Rodriguez makes one wine: Martinsancho, produced from 100% Verdejo and made in the historic bodega that they’ve occupied since 1780. They still utilize the subterranean bodega which is 3 stories underground, replete with 5,000-liter oak bocoyes in continuous use for centuries.

Underground bodega at Bodegas Angel Rodriguez

At the opposite end of the winemaking spectrum but with every bit as much reverence for the Verdejo grape, is Bodegas Jose Pariente. Oenologist Victoria Pariente (one of only four women winemakers in Spain who also own their bodegas) inherited the passion for winemaking from her father Jose, who produced his own artisan wines. A new state of the art winery is still under construction and without a sign, it looks unoccupied from the highway. But drive around back and there’s a bee hive of activity! Every step of the winemaking process here is analyzed and controlled with the latest technology to preserve freshness and avoid oxidation, which easily happens with the Verdejo grape. The hand picked grapes are brought from the surrounding vineyards directly to a refrigerated storage cooler and then crushed and piped under refrigeration to temperature controlled fermentation tanks. The bodega uses nitrogen in all of the must handling to minimize oxidation. The pebble covered vineyards are from 40 years to 100 years old, situated in the “Golden Mile” of Rueda, the highest part of the plateau, whose Atlantic climate has strong variations of day and night temperatures.

In the vineyard with Victoria Pariente and her assistant

WHITE WINES FROM RUEDA

2008 Martinsancho Verdejo, Rueda ($18.99) The harsh continental climate and extreme altitude, together with the soil’s austere inhospitality to all types of insects and bacteria, allow for the practice of completely organic viticulture. From free-run juice, the new wine is racked into centuries-old subterranean bocoyes prior to clarification and bottling. 2008 was a cool, late harvest producing a full bodied, freshly fruity and minerally complex Verdejo.

2007 Jose Pariente Verdejo, Rueda ($21.99) Ecologically produced from 40 year old vines planted by Jose Pariente, the winemaker’s father. Daily battonage provides a creamy texture, backed up by fresh aromas of citrus and delicate pear flavors. …”The 2007 Varietal Verdejo is a superb expression of this once under-rated grape variety. The fruit was sourced from a 40 year old, 6-hectare estate vineyard. Medium straw-colored, the wine has an alluring fragrance of mineral, lemon-lime, citrus, and floral notes.” 90 points Wine Advocate

2007 Martina Prieto Verdejo, Rueda ($15.99) The daughter of Victoria Pariente makes this wine using extreme methods such as harvesting grapes at night to lock in the fresh aromatics. Martina Prieto bursts with flavors of creamy grapefruit, ripe pineapple, lime, flint, and a hint of cinnamon. Vibrant with acidity, this is the perfect wine to serve with octopus ceviche.

2007 Marques de Irun Verdejo, Rueda ($12.99) Fresh and lively on the palate, with aromas of white grapefruit. Unctuous on the palate, with flavors of citrus, a hint of honeydew melon and palate cleansing minerality. With a persistent, crisp finish, it pairs wonderfully with shellfish.

 

RED WINES

Gear up for barbeque weather this weekend! These are stellar reds to match with grilled ribs or lamb burgers:

2007 Vale Da Clara, Douro ($13.99) The new vintage of this red table wine is a staff favorite! Complex black fruit flavors are nicely structured by accessible tannins. Smooth and well balanced, this tasty red is perfect for quaffing when you’re sitting around with friends on the deck.

2007 La Planta, Ribera del Duero ($15.99) I had a glass of this at a tapas bar in Valladolid. It was sensational with my tapa of roasted eggplant, onion confit and carmelized cabbage. 100% Tempranillo, it has been barrel aged 6 months. There’s a hint of smoke behind the smooth boysenberry, licorice and black cherry fruit. With great food pairing acidity, it is full bodied, balanced, with a dry and pleasing finish. Recommended value wine under $25.00 by Wine Advocate.

2007 Clos de los Siete, Mendoza ($18.99) “Bright, full ruby-red. Crushed black fruits, mocha, bitter chocolate, licorice and smoked meat on the nose. Sweet, penetrating and firm-edged; … I like this wine’s balance of sweetness and acidity…” “There may be no finer red wine value in Argentina than this superb blend of 48% Malbec, 28% Merlot, 12% Syrah, and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon… This lengthy effort over-delivers and then some.” 89 points Stephen Tanzer, 91 points Jay Miller

 

Winemaker tasting: Meet Martina Pariente, producer of Martina Prieto Verdejo at Tango Restaurant on Sunday July 12, from 6:00 to 8:00 p.m. A selection of tapas will be paired with three red wines and the Martina Prieto Verdejo. $30.00. For reservations, contact Tango Restaurant 206.583.0382

Sincerely,

 

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, Owners

Spanish Table

Certain memories of Spain linger in our minds years after the details of the trip has faded. One of these enduring images is of mothers in black, the mamacitas, inhabiting the white washed villages we visited during the 1980’s. They were the last of a generation and part of an agrarian culture that stretched back across eons of time. They were mothers who gave birth to their children at home under the watchful eye of a midwife. Mothers who prepared their childrens’ meals from whatever ingredients were available, what we call Cocina Pobre, in The Spanish Table cookbook. Mothers who kept the home fire burning and whose love was rich beyond measure. ¡Feliz Dia de Madre!

MOTHER’S DAY GIFT IDEAS

Mothers Day is Sunday May 10

EXCEPTIONAL CHEESES

For Moms that are cheese aficionados, these quesos make a sensational addition to any brunch or gift basket!

Peña Corado: This new blue cheese is picking up serious momentum among cheese connoisseurs. Voluptuous & buttery, Peña Corado is high in moisture with a compact supple texture. Rich, creamy, sweet and salty, it has a long blue finish and is a perfect partner for crisp fruit.

Sharon’s favorite cheese, Monte Enebro is back in stock. Made by one man, this phenomenal soft goat cheese is coated with ash. It is spreadable, creamy and tangy. It melts on your tongue and is a full-flavored cheese.

NEW MEATS

Rillettes de Périgord-Duck Meat Pate, all natural A traditional French dish, Rillettes du Perigord are made of the finest duck meat and seasoned duck fat. The meat is simmered in spices, juices, and fat, and left to soak up as much flavor as possible. The saturated meat is then pounded into a spread. Delicious with Arrope, (Grape Must With Pumpkin).

Truffle Mousse Paté Made from velvety chicken livers, scrumptious truffles,earthy porcini mushrooms and marinated in sherry. Artisanally produced with all natural ingredients, it pairs perfectly with Cava. – Jorge

Mother’s Day special through Sunday May 10th:

Cheese

Recieve a complimentary $15.00 gift certificate with purchase of the new edition Spanish Table cookbook by Steve Winston($30.00).

La Cocina de Mama by Penelope Casas ($29.95) 175 recipes gathered from great chefs and traditional home cooks from every region in Spain, representing the best of Spanish recipes handed down through generations of Spanish “mamas”.

Clos Mogador Olive Oil ($37.00)From Rene Barbier’s legendary estate in Priorat, this is one of the most complex oils we’ve tasted. Drizzle over grilled fish or vegetables for a savory finish.

Valor Chocolate Little Secrets ($5.39/2.2 oz) These chocolate truffles from Spain’s premier chocolatier are guaranteed to please Mothers who love chocolate!

Teas ($4.99/25 bags): Choose from Lemon tea, Camomille with Anise, Tea with Saffron or Peppermint.

Sunny Tunisian yellow and red ceramics (pictured above), including tea pots and mugs. Cheerful on any table!

Made in Spain DVDs with Jose Andres ($31.49). Let Mom follow chef Andres around Spain without buying an airplane ticket.

GREAT WINES FOR SPECIAL MEALS

2005 Vistalba Corte B, Mendoza ($22.99) 70% Malbec & 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, Vistalba’s high altitude vineyard has an amazing diurnal swing of 60° F, allowing excellent color and tannin development. Aged 12 months in French oak, Vistalba has dark red fruit aromas with hints of tobacco, chocolate, vanilla, cassis and clove. “Lush and round, with velvety-textured tannins carrying ample layers of plum sauce, crushed currant and fig fruit and dark licorice notes. Stays admirably fresh on the hefty finish, with a nice buried black tea hint.” 92 points Wine Spectator Smart Buy

2005 Matarromera Crianza, Ribera del Duero ($26.99) Hefty, complex and rich with notes of vanilla, graphite, and cassis liqueur. Fig, smoke, black cherry and mineral elements give lift and balance to the structured tannins. 90 points Jay Miller

2003 Remelluri Rioja ($34.99) Elegant and accessible, the 2003 Remelluri provies how a great winemaker can produce a spectacular wine even in a difficult vintage. “Gamey cherry and plum on the nose, with a complex array of herbal and floral qualities adding complexity. Shockingly fresh and poised, with bitter cherry and blackcurrant flavors, chewy texture and fine-grained tannins. Finishes juicy, clean and precise, with a peppery kick. This is drinking very nicely right now.” 90 points Stephen Tanzer

2004 LAN Culmen Reserva ($75.00) “This beautiful modern red offers a velvety texture supported by ripe, well-integrated tannins and plenty of sweet toasty oak. Plum and boysenberry fruit is ripe and fresh. Very expressive, yet with great concentration. Mineral and tobacco notes add complexity. Powerful and complete. Drink now through 2025.” 96 points Wine Spectator

2006 Mas D’En Compte Tinto, Priorat (40.00) ” Vibrant raspberry and cherry aromas are energized by blood orange and baking spices. Fresh red fruit flavors are complicated by an exotic lavender pastille quality and given lift by juicy acidity. An elegant, precise wine that finishes with excellent tangy cut and persistence. Nothing overdone here.” 91 points Stephen Tanzer

NEW WINES

FROM LATIN AMERICA:

2007 Árido Malbec, Mendoza ($9.99) We discovered how great Arido Malbec was six months ago and now The Wine Spectator will be featuring it in a future issue. Get it while you can – once reviewed, wines quickly sell out. “Ripe and focused, with a solid beam of raspberry fruit laced with sweet spice, toast and fruitcake notes, followed by a juicy finish. Drink now.” 88 points Wine Spectator Best Values

2006 Vistalba Corte C, Mendoza ($10.99) Winemaker Carlos Pulenta has crafted a rich and balanced red wine in his blend of 80% Malbec and 20% Merlot. Flavors of ripe boysenberry with black tea notes and structured tannins go down all too easily. “Juicy, with a nice compact core of plum sauce and fig that should unwind nicely, supported by licorice, fruitcake and black tea notes.” 88 points Wine Spectator Great value!

2006 Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon Rapel Valley Chile, ($13.99) “Red berries and spiced plum on the nose, with a light mineral quality adding energy. Silky in texture, with midweight raspberry and bitter chocolate flavors and good finishing grip. Attractively fresh wine.” 88 points Stephen Tanzer

FESTIVE SPARKLING WINES:

NV Cavas Hill Brut de Brut Reserva Artesania ($9.99) Cavas Hill Brut de Brut is made in the traditional cava method with fermentation in the bottle and aging on lees for 20 months. Clean and crisp, it has very small, fine and delicate bubbles with fruit aromas. Green apple flavors provide great freshness and it has a creamy, elegant and pleasantly long finish.

Agusti Torello Mata Rosat Reserva Brut 2006, Penedes ($24.99) A glass of this crisp sparkling rose turns any day into a special occasion. “The 2006 Rosat-Repat was sourced from Trepat vines over 65 years of age. Deep pink in color, it has a lovely bouquet of rose petals, strawberry and raspberry. It reveals a steady stream of small, persistent bubbles, a crisp, refreshing mid-palate and outstanding depth of flavor.” 92 points Robert Parker Top 5 Wine Values

SPECIAL EVENTS:

Spanish Table cook book appearance at Metropolitan Market

Join Spanish Table owner Steve Winston for a cookbook signing and recipe tasting:

Thursday May 7th, 4-6 pm Proctor store

Friday May 8th, 4-6 Admiral store

Saturday May 9th, 4-6 Sand Point store

For more information: http://metropolitan-market.com/happenings/index.phph?page=3

Pike Place Market Flower Festival Saturday & Sunday May 9-10

40 + farmers are expected to take part in this first annual festival. Farmers will set up tents on the cobblestone parking area and will offer cut flowers, seeds, bulbs and flower starts for sale.

Saturday, May 9, “Flamenco de Noche” one night only, 8:00 p.m. at the historic Rendezvous Jewelbox theatre in Belltown. Dancer Savannah Fuentes is bringing singer/dancer Stephanie Pedraza from Vancouver and guitarist Mark Ferguson from Portland to join singer/dancer Esther Marion and guitarist Rafael Vargas in a very traditional flamenco show. Tickets:

www.brownpapertickets.com

Saturday June 12 “Arte Profundo Flamenco” one night only, 8 pm at Columbia City Theater. Featuring special guest from Sevilla, singer Jesus Montoya with dancers Esther Marion and Savannah Fuentes, guitarists Rafael Vargas and Mark Ferguson. For more information: 206-937-4994 http://arteprofundoflamenco.blogspot.com Tickets available at www.brownpapertickets.com

SPANISH COOKING SEMINARS

Taberna del Alabardero operates restaurants, hotels and cooking schools in Spain and recently opened a restaurant in Seattle’s Belltown. Always eager to learn the secrets of professionals, I took the first of their outstanding cooking series this week. A group of us learned what to do when a tortilla espanola falls apart and how to coax every bit of flavor into a savory seafood paella, among other things. Not only do students watch Chef Larrosa explain and prepare each dish, it’s all served for lunch afterwards. Every Tuesday in May at 11:30 A.M. For more information:

http://www.alabardero.com/seattle/May%20Seminars.pdf

We hope to see you soon in the shop, and in the meantime have a great week!

Sincerely,

Sharon Baden & Steve Winston
Owners, The Spanish Table

Great Memories

Too often, days fade into memory like the Bainbridge ferry disappearing into fog. But there are also times that are simply unforgettable, such as our trip to Cordoba where we waited in line for hours to see a flamenco concert we’d stumbled upon by accident. It was a sensational show featuring Jose Merce, Jose Menese and Chocolate. The raw emotions I felt that night turned me into an aficionado of cante flamenco.

The next morning’s visit to Bodegas Toro Albala was just as memorable. For starters, it was raining so hard that the wine maker had to drive us across the parking lot. Situated in a former electric plant since 1922, the tiny bodega is a hands-on operation which produces phenomenal sherries. Known for their dessert wines such as the Don PX Gran Reserva, they tasted us through their selection and I was blown away by the Fino Electrico. All of Toro Albala’s sherries are made from 100% Pedro Ximenez which has sufficient residual sugar so that fortification is unnecessary, in contrast to sherries produced in D.O. Jerez from the palomino grape. We’ve stocked the Don PX Gran Reserva for years but the rest were not available until now. This week we received 4 new sherries from Toro Albala.

NEW SHERRIES FROM BODEGAS TORO ALBALA

Fino Electrico ($11.99) Aromas of yeast meet pungent flavors of green olive and almonds. Bone dry, intense and great with salty jamon iberico.

Amontillado Viejisimo ($29.99) This superb wine is an average of 30 years old. Great intensity of rich roasted nuts, dried fruit and leather with a seemingly endless finish.

Oloroso Viejo ($17.99) From soleras and reserve stocks approaching a century in age, Oloroso Viejo displays a round, velvety texture with aromas of butterscotch. Essentially dry, it is also rich with notes of caramel and a dry persistent finish.

Cream PX ($17.99) A blend of 10-year-old Oloroso which has been enriched with Don PX Gran Reserva. A complex and refined palate caressing wine, it melds flavors of dried fruit and raisins with balanced acidity.

NOTABLE NEW WINES

2004 Castell de Les Pinyeres, Montsant ($15.99) A blend of Grenache, Carignan, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo, this is an old world wine with panache. “Energetic spiced raspberry and cherry on the nose, with white pepper and cinnamon qualities adding complexity. Fresh, finely etched red fruit flavors are intense but almost weightless, with bracing minerality adding nerve. Pure strawberry and raspberry flavors dominate the long, refreshingly brisk finish. There’s a pinot noir-like vivacity to this wine that is extremely appealing.” 90 points Stephen Tanzer

2005 El Castro de Valtuille, Bierzo ($34.00) Winemaker Raul Perez is breathing life into these old vineyards. Made from vines between 50-60 years old, El Castro de Valtuille is 100% Mencia. It has spent 14 months in one year old barrels to let the intense fruit shine through. Elegant, tannic and structured with a persistent finish, this has amazing concentration. Absolutely wonderful! 90 points Stephen Tanzer, 92 points Robert Parker

FELIZ CINCO DE MAYO! Need ingredients for a party this weekend? Try some of our Mexican specialties:

Habanero lollipops ($1.59) Warning! Very hot adult candy. Marilyn says “Yum – tingles the tip of your tongue.”

La Morena Chipotle Sauce $2.79/7 oz Smoked hot peppers essential for many Mexican recipes

Cocina Mestiza salsas ($7.99/22 oz) Choose from Serrano, Chipotle or Habanera. Grab some chips and the appetizer is ready!

Los Chileros New Mexican whole dried peppers, posole, chile powder, chicos y mas.

We have an extensive selection of general and regional Mexican cookbooks, from $5.99 and up.

NEW VALUE WINES UNDER $10.00

2007 Juan de Valdelana Rioja ($9.99) Made of 90% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano and 5% Viura, this young Rioja has plenty of verve in a traditional style. Valdelana has cherry aromas with flavors of black currant, boysenberry and a touch of spice. Well balanced with a persistent finish, this wine has enough acidity to balance out paella or grilled sausages.

2008 Higueruela, Almansa ($9.99) Higueruela is made from 100% Garnacha Tintorera (also called Alicante Bouchet), from low-yielding vines between 30 and 80 years old. Aged in stainless steel tanks, it has a fruity aroma which reveals black cherry flavors and moderate tannins. Higueruela has an appealing earthiness with great lift on the finish. 87 points Jay Miller, Recommend Best Buy

2005 El Cipres Malbec, Menoza ($9.99) 100% Malbec from the 70 year old Don Angelino vineyard at 2800 feet above sea level, El Cipres presents a delicious blend of red and black fruits supported by soft, smooth

NEW PRODUCTS

tannins. Smoky and meaty, serve this with a slab of grilled beef and chimichurri sauce.

Isastegi Basque cider ($10.99) is back in stock at long last! We now have two distinctive ciders in stock. Isastegi is tart green apple flavored with a fresh finish. Bereziartua cider ($9.99) is loaded with fermented fruit. Try one of each and compare!

Seven Fires, Grilling the Argentine Way by Francis Mallmann ($35.00) We ate at Mallmann’s 1884 Restaurant in Buenos Aires and it was an amazing experience. When South America’s most venerated chef published a cookbook, we had to stock it. Filled with mouth watering photos of everything from empanadas to assorted meats cooking over coals, if you like playing with fire, this is a must-have book.

Clos Mogador extra virgin olive oil ($37.00): Produced in limited quantities by Rene Barbier’s Priorat estate, this is a cold extraction of arbequina, rojol and empeltre olives. Amazingly buttery with grassy notes, it is full flavored with a peppery finish. So good it’s hard to stop dipping bread into it.

Now back in stock: Choricero dried peppers ($19.99/7 oz)

Access from the Pike Place Market: The stairs between the Market and Western Avenue will be closed for several months for construction and utility work. In the meantime, the other stairs are still open and the elevator is working. The market is installing signage to help folks find their way to Western Avenue.

We hope to see you soon, and have a great week!

Regards,

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, Owners

The Spanish Table

Cock A Doodle Doo

April 23, 2009

Food writer Nancy Leson’s blog has released a flock of calls and emails here at the shop.   What’s all the twittering about?  California wine producer E.J. Gallo has filed a lawsuit against the Spanish Table for selling “Gallo” brand fideua pasta, produced in Barcelona.  “Gallo” means rooster in Spanish and icons of the bird are seen all over the Iberian peninsula.  Sadly, we can’t afford the fight to sell our favorite brand of pasta, so we’ve found a replacement brand of noodle.   Stop in and get one of these Gallo collector items before they sell out!    To read Nancy Leson’s blog:  http://blog.seattletimes.nwsource.com/allyoucaneat/2009/04/20/gallo_crows_well_sue_you_spani.html To watch the King 5 TV report: http://www.king5.com/business/stories/NW_042109WAB-winery-gallo-KC.fb370cdf.html

Fideau, or fideo, is a dish made in a paella pan with short pasta noodles, garlic, broth and whatever else you’ve got on hand.    To use those Spanish noodles, try this recipe from The Spanish Table Cookbook:
Fideo Pasta with Seafood in Oloroso Cream Sauce (serves 4)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon garlic, finely chopped
1 pound salmon, or a 1 pound mixture of shrimp meat and crab
½ cup dry Oloroso sherry
3 cups clam juice or water
½ pound fideo pasta
1 cup half-and-half
1 tablespoon minced parsley
Heat oil in a 12-inch or larger paella pan and cook the pasta until it turns golden.   Remove pasta from pan, reserving the oil.  Add garlic to pan and cook until soft.  Add the seafood and saute for 1 minute on each side.   Add the sherry and clam juice, then bring to a boil.
Add the pasta and return to a boil. Reduce the heat and cook until the pasta has absorbed the liquid and is al dente, about 8-10 minutes.  Add the half-and-half and parsley and cook until incorporated.    This is even better with a bowl of alioli (garlic mayonnaise) served on the side.
“When fideua is outlawed; only outlaws will have fideua.” Steve Winston

COLLECTOR’S CORNER On Easter weekend, we opened and drank a bottle of 1968 Vina Bosconia Rioja.  In 1968, when the grapes used to make this wine were growing, I was stationed at U.S. 6th Army headquarters in San Francisco.  Recovering from the wounds I received in the infantry (173 Airborne Brigade) in Vietnam, I was drinking, ironically, Gallo Hearty Burgandy by the jug.  My palate has matured since then.   If you are old enough to remember 1968, we have one bottle available of 1968 Vina Tondonia Rioja ($327.00).   Steve Winston

CHEESE CORNER Pata Cabra is a unique goat’s milk cheese is from Zaragoza, made in a brick shape. It is a washed rind cheese which is dense, smooth, creamy and mildly piquant. Faintly goaty, lightly lemony, fresh, earthy and full of character with sweet herbaceous overtones. Pairs perfectly with Albariño or Godello white wines.

- Jorge

Celebrate Earth Day by planting a garden!    A a new shipment of padron pepper seeds has arrived, just in time to start germinating.   If you’ve never tasted a padron pepper, they are a small piquant green variety from Galicia.   They grow well in the cool northwest and are best  enjoyed when they are not over 3 inches long.   The larger they are, the hotter they can be!

VALUE WINES UNDER $10.00
2007 Dom Martinho rose, Estremoz Portugal ($8.99) Rothschild-Lafite acquired this estate in 1992 and since has brought the vineyards back to immaculate condition, as only the Rothschilds can do. Dom Martinho rose is fresh and clean, with vibrant strawberry-raspberry flavors. With great acidity and hints of mineral, this is a perfect wine to kick off the rose season with!
2006 San Isidro Cepas del Zorro Dos Ano Monastrell, Bullas ($8.99) The region of Bullas is near Jumilla in Southwestern Spain but has a superior high and dry terroir. Produced from vines as old as 60 years and at 2100 feet elevation, this is a powerfully authentic wine. With fruity raspberry aromas on the nose, it has a brawny mid palate with mineral notes, hints of spice and plenty of tannic structure. Aged two years in the bottle but without any time in barrel, Cepas del Zorro is rustic and meaty. Great with barbecued ribs!
2007 Valdemar Tempranillo Rioja ($9.99) New on the market and bursting with vivid boysenberry fruit, Valdemar Tempranillo is a must-try for those looking for a great paella wine. With just the right amount of acidity and moderate tannins, it deftly balances any rich dish or roasted meat. This is a red that I’ll be serving all year round.

SPECIAL OCCASION WINES UNDER $20.00:
2007 Martina Prieto Pariente Verdejo, Rueda ($15.99) Martina’s mother, Victoria, is said to produce the best white wine in Spain under their famous estate name, Jose Pariente. Martina, an enology student, is making her own wine with her mother using extreme methods such as harvesting grapes at night to lock in the fresh aromatics. Martina Prieto sings with flavors of creamy grapefruit, ripe pineapple, lime, flint, and a hint of cinnamon. Vibrant with acidity, it is a great pairing with octopus ceviche.
2006 Naiades, Rueda, Regularly $23.99, now on sale for $19.99. This is absolutely one of the best white wines I’ve tasted. The Naiades vineyards were planted in the 19th century with ungrafted Verdejo vines. Surviving generations of harsh climate, poor soils and phylloxera, these vines produce the extraordinary fruit that goes into Naiades. With aromas of beeswax and dried flowers, the oak is evident but muted. Full bodied, creamy and rich, it has great balanced acidity with flavors of buttered toast, melon and citrus. “The barrel-fermented 2006 Naia Des is 100% old-vine Verdejo sourced from ungrafted 80- to 100-year-old vines. The nose is slightly toasty but the fruit comes through with plenty of citrus, mineral, and floral notes. The oak treatment seems to have resulted in a creamier texture. The wine is nicely balanced, medium long, and may evolve for 1-2 years although it can be enjoyed now.” 90 points Jay Miller
2006 Luigi Bosca Malbec Reserva, Mendoza ($19.99) The 2005 Luigi Bosca Reserva Malbec was a sensational Malbec and quickly sold out. The 2006 vintage just arrived, and it has all the rich smokiness, structure and balance of the 2005. “Full ruby-red. Musky, vinous aromas of blackberry, mocha, espresso and tobacco. Suave, juicy and palate-coating, with a distinctly saline element adding complexity to the flavors of raspberry, tobacco, smoke and green olive. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and lovely aromatic lift. A distinctly soil-inflected wine with loads of personality-and an excellent value.” 90 points Stephen Tanzer

Have a great week, and we hope to see you at the shop.

Regards,
Sharon Baden & Steve Winston, owners
The Spanish Table

Holiday Feasting in Portland

April 16, 2009

The buzz about Portland’s diverse restaurant scene got us on the road Sunday morning with our California partners Andy and Tanya. Our first stop was lunch at Andina in the Pearl District (http://www.andinarestaurant.com). After sharing piquillo peppers stuffed with quinoa and jamon serrano, tender octopus kebabs, and fresh lime infused fish ceviche, we understand why it gets rave reviews. A few hours later we stopped at Toro Bravo (http://www.torobravopdx.com) for a pre-dinner sherry and couldn’t leave without trying the manchego cheese marinated in rose petal harissa and mint, sherry chicken liver mousse, and the oxtail croquettes. What astonishing flavor combinations! We would have stayed all night but we had dinner reservations at Le Pigeon (http://www.lepigeon.com), a tiny bistro with communal tables which is always full. The seasonal menu was loaded with meat-centric dishes that blew us away.  My fried rabbit was more rabbit confit, ultra-tender with meat falling off the bone. We had duck breast and beef cheeks and an amazing finale of cornbread, maple syrup and bacon. Everything was fantastic! We’ll go back to these places very, very soon.

Instant Tapa:  Start with a slice of Aegean Gourmet Golden Toast ($1.99/11.6 oz), add a layer of Greenland Buffalo Feta cheese ($3.99/500 grams) and top with Napoleon Grilled Artichoke Halves ($3.85/7.5 oz).  Serve at room temperature.

New Meats

Chorizo Leon ($11.99, appx ¾ lb): Take one bite of this intensely flavored soft-cured sausage and you’ll think you’re in Spain. Its distinctive flavor comes from a mixture of garlic with the smoked paprikas from Pimenton de la Vera. Serve sliced at room temperature on a charcuterie plate.

Asturian Fabada Stew Kit ($23.99/appx 2 lbs): Our cold and rainy Easter weather got me hankering for stew. A comfort food fanatic, nothing warms me on a chilly night like a hearty serving of Fabada, the signature dish of Asturias. Traditionally made with a special bean called “fabe” grown in this region, this sausage and bean dish is absolutely satisfying. Our Asturian Fabada Stew Kit includes Chorizo Bilbao, Morcilla de Cebolla (blood sausage with onion), Tocino (bacon with rind) and Jamon Serrano (dry cured ham). We also have a limited supply of the authentic “Fabe” Fabada bean ($35.00/kg), which is prized for its ability to hold shape after a long simmer.

For a Fabada recipe, click this link: http://www.spain-recipes.com/fabada-asturiana.html

Soujouk ($9.99/1.2 lb): We discovered this dried beef sausage in Turkey, where it was sliced over a dish of hummus and warmed, then served as a tasty appetizer.

Basturma or Pastirma ($12.99/12 oz): Racks of hanging beef loin rubbed with a heavy marinade of paprika, fenugreek and chili line the market streets of Kayseri, Turkey. This popular spiced beef is sliced thin and eaten on bread, or it can be sauteed and eaten with everything from eggs or wrapped in phyllo dough and baked.

 

FISH PRODUCTS

Squid ink ($.99/4 gram plastic or $19.99/200 gr jar): Not a new product for us, but we’ve been getting a lot of calls for it lately.   The essential ingredient in black rice or squid in its own ink.  Now available in a 200 gr jar as well as the familiar plastic packets.  
Filetes de Boqueron: ($8.99/appx 6 oz) Another item that is frequently asked for.  These fresh white anchovies are marinated in oil and vinegar, with garlic and parsley. We had these one night at Txori on top of crostini with black olive tapenade. The briny fish and rich olive flavors were fantastic together!   Also great on caesar salad.

 

 

WHITE WINE 

2007 Grinalda Reserva Vinho Verde, Portugal ($14.99) Produced by Vinho Verde maker Aveleda, Grinalda represents the perfect combination of tradition and innovation. The grapes are fermented at low temperature with selected yeasts in an effort to preserve the naturally fresh character. Unlike many vinho verde wines, carbon dioxide has not been added to Grinalda; it reflects the intense aromas of the Loureiro grape, the elegance and softness of Trajadura and the persistent finish of Alvarinho. It’s aromas of tropical fruits and flowers, flavors of fresh stone fruit with notes of citrus and a zippy acidity provide a clean and bracing palate. Excellent with shellfish.

2007 Porrais Douro ($16.99) Produced from a 28 hectare vineyard which is over 60 years old, with shale and schist soils at an altitude of 600 meters, this white wine is a knockout! Made of 60% Rabigato and 40% Codega do Larinho, it is steely and lean. With citrus and green apple flavors, abundant minerality and moderate tannins, it is crisp, delicate and delicious.

WINE VALUES:    To ease the pain of tax season, we’ve added to our stock of over 50 wines under $10.00. Amazing wines from Spain and Portugal arrive weekly and continue to be the best value on the planet!

2007 Mesta Tempranillo, Tierra de Castilla ($7.99): Named for gatherings of sheep herders organized to sort stray sheep (mestencos) from their flock, Mesta is 100% Tempranillo, the wine traditionally served with lamb. The grapes are grown at 2500 feet elevation, and it has great balance and food-pairing acidity. Aged in stainless steel, this is a young wine with a fruit driven nose full of enticing aromas of ripe red berries. On the palate, it has chewy and firm tannins with a hint of pepper and a persistent finish. Serve this at your next backyard barbeque!
2008 Famega Rose, Portugal ($7.99) Our first 2008 rose has arrived! With all the promise of a seedling poking up its first shoots, the new rose season brings hope of salad days to come. 2008 Famega is loaded with fresh strawberry flavor, a hint of effervescence and a feeling of summer. Sip it chilled on the deck on a sunny day!
2007 Carlos Bassos Dos Fincas Cabernet Sauvignon – Merlot, Mendoza ($9.99) Aged lightly in oak for 4 months, Dos Fincas is a blend of two different vineyards and microclimates. Made of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot, its jammy berry aromas and plump black berry flavors shine through. Solid and flush throughout, it has surprising softness. Excellent with grilled pork chops.
2005 Conde de Vimioso, Ribatejano ($9.99) Winemaker Joao Portugal Ramos has been the most influential wine consultant in Southern Portugal over the last 15 years. His philosophy of low yields, preserving fruit flavors and occasional oak aging with modern winemaking techniques have made him a superstar. His 2005 Conde de Vimioso combines aromatic, dark fruit flavors of Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira blended beautifully with the bold spices of Tempranillo and well-integrated tannins of Cabernet. The palate is rich and youthful, showing raspberry and currant fruit with hints of white pepper, espresso bean and dark chocolate on the lingering finish.
NV Quinta de la Rosa’s Finest Reserve Port, Douro ($11.99/375 ml, $19.99/750 ml) “is a stunning example of what can be achieved and found in non-vintage port blends. This small port lodge has turned out a terrific, full-bodied, garnet/ruby-colored wine with a big, chocolatey, black-cherry, cedary nose, full-bodied, unctuously-textured flavors, and gobs of fruit and richness, as well as an off-dry, impressive finish. Drink it over the next decade or more.” 92 points Robert Parker

We hope to see you soon and have a great week!  

Best regards, 

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, owners
The Spanish Table Inc.

 

Tilting At Windmills

Overlooking the plains of La Mancha, these ancient windmills are like great white birds peering down from a nest. Strikingly visible for miles, they have guarded the Spanish countryside since the Middle Ages, the chivalrous era of Don Quixote.

Facing middle age myself and feeling more wild-eyed and quixotic every day, I’m increasingly tilting at windmills.  For example, I’d love for all Americans to become healthier and happier by learning the pleasure of cooking.   There are so many fantastic and easy to prepare dishes whose flavor is miles ahead of the fare in the ready-to-eat aisle at the grocery store.   The first step is stock your larder with a few favorite  ingredients, such as a flavorful extra virgen olive oil, piquillo peppers, Morroccan spices and preserved lemons.   Then experiment!  Use the preserved lemon on grilled fish.  Drizzle the olive oil over grilled vegetables and taste how the flavors pop.  Serve the piquillo peppers on top of grilled pork chops.   Check out the recipe below that I threw together last week which turned out astonishingly wonderful!

Roast Cornish Game Hens with Petite Golden Lentils Serves 4

2 Cornish Game Hens

1 lemon

1 orange

Harrisa

1 white onion

3 sprigs fresh thyme

2 leaves fresh sage, chopped

2 cups Petite Golden Lentils

3-4 cups Chicken stock (optional)

Rinse and dry the game hens. Stuff with slices of lemon and orange, and brush generously with harissa. Bake at 350 degrees for about an hour, until juices run clear.

While the hens are cooking, roughly chop the onion. Simmer it over low heat in olive oil with the thyme and sage, until it softens and carmelizes.

Check the lentils for stones and rinse. Put them in a stock pot and cover with water or chicken stock. The liquid should be 2 inches above the level of the lentils. Simmer for 12-15 minutes until tender.

When the hens are done, stir the lentils into the onions and serve as a side dish.

Last week we wrote about the February 25, 2009 edition of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate which featured “Spain’s Top 100 Wine Values.” Here are some other great values that we have in stock.

2007 Bodegas Valtostao Legon Roble, Ribera del Duero ($13.99) “The 2007 Legon Roble is 100% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) aged for six months in French, American, and Hungarian oak. It offers up an enticing bouquet of cedar, spice box, earth notes, black cherry, and blackberry. This is followed by a smooth-textured, ripe, juicy wine with loads of fruit, an easy-going personality, and a seamless finish. It is a fine introduction to Tempranillo and the DO of Ribera del Duero. Enjoy it over the next four years.” 90 points Wine Advocate

2006 Los Cantos de Torremilanos, Ribera del Duero ($21.99) “The 2006 Los Cantos de Torremilanos is 100% Tempranillo aged for 13 months in one-third new French oak. Purple-colored, its nose reveals wood smoke, lavender, pencil lead, black cherry, and blackberry. Firm and structured on the palate with an elegant personality, this lengthy effort will evolve for another 2-3 years and drink well through 2021.” 90 points Wine Advocate

2005 Cellars Sant Rafel Solpost, Montsant ($23.99) “The 2005 Solpost is a blend of 50% Garnacha, 35% Carinena, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 12 months in French and American oak. Dark ruby-colored, it has an enticing perfume of mineral, earth notes, cassis, and black cherry. Smooth-textured, on the palate it has outstanding depth and concentration, savory red and black fruit flavors, and a long, fruit-filled finish. It will evolve for 2-3 years and offer prime drinking from 2011 to 2020.” 91 points Wine Advocate

OTHER GREAT VALUES:

2006 Protocolo, Vina de la Tierra de Castilla ($6.99) Protocolo is a perennial Spanish Table customer favorite and the 2006 vintage is a fantastic bargain! With warm aromas of berry, this 100% Tempranillo has a depth of vibrant black cherry flavors. Low tannins are balanced by acidity and a finish of licorice notes. Perfect for a party or on a weeknight when you don’t want to break the bank.

2007 Gouguenheim Malbec, Mendoza Regularly $9.99, special price $7.99 while supplies last. We took advantage of the importer’s pre-arrival sale and ordered 5 cases of this popular Malbec. When these sell out, the price goes up. The full bodied 2007 Malbec has aromas of violet, with lush flavors of plum, black cherry, black currant and chocolate. Meaty, with ample but not overpowering tannins, it is well balanced with acidity and has a knock-out toasty finish.

WINE COLLECTOR’S CORNER

2006 Flor de Pingus, Ribera del Duero ($79.00) Limited quantities, scheduled to arrive Friday March 13! Cutting-edge winemaker Peter Sisseck transcended traditional Spanish winemaking with the release of his 1995 Pingus. Flor de Pingus is his second wine and sells for $600.00 less. Produced from extremely low-yielding vineyards and biodynamic since 2005, the 2006 Flor de Pingus is a blockbuster. “Strong floral and mineral scents complicate blackberry and cherry on the nose. Vibrant red berry and cherry flavors are given support by dusty tannins and become sweeter with air. Very fresh and precise, with excellent mineral snap and thrust. I like this wine’s delicate touch, and the finish is clean and very long. Given the tariff for its big brother, this is almost a bargain.” 93 points Stephen Tanzer

2005 Dulce Christina, Alicante ($21.99)“(A 50/50 blend of merlot and tempranillo.) Bright red. Spicy, lively bouquet of strawberry and raspberry preserves and minerals. Gently sweet, with sappy red berry flavors and good bracing acidity. Very fresh for a late-harvest wine, without the cloying, syrupy qualities of most. Finishes with energetic lift and mineral bite. This is delicious. 92 points Stephen Tanzer

CHEESE CORNER La Cueva Llonin: This extraordinary, limited production, cave aged cheese defies expectations. Unavailable from any domestic vendors, we special ordered it from Spain and it finally arrived today! The only soft-ripened cows’ milk cheese from Spain that I have heard of, it is creamy, complex & mushroomy. Little of this shows up outside of Asturias, Spain. La Cueva Llonin comes in 12.5 oz squares of gooey yumminess and is the perfect accompaniment on any Spanish cheese platter.
And from Egypt, we now have Buffalo Milk Feta cheese.

Come and see me at the cheese counter! George
NOW BACK IN STOCK: DIGESTIVES!

News from the Spanish Table

I keep thinking about that summer afternoon in Ciutadella, Menorca.  We ate a fantastic seafood paella and paired it with a delicious crisp rose.  On the island of Menorca, paella is served with mayonnaise which was invented in Mahon, Menorca.  Here’s to good times and delicious memories!!

If you love paella, treat yourself to Taberna del Alabardero’s paella fest from March 16-22. Master paella chef David Montero is flying in from Marbella to prepare 12 different paellas. For details, contact Taberna del Alabardero Phone: 206.448.8884 www.alabardero.com/seattle

We met Steve Metzler and Almudena de Llaguno of Classical Wines in 1995 when we opened The Spanish Table. One of the first importers to recognize the enormous potential of Spanish wine, Steve and Almudena have been pivotal in introducing quality Spanish wines to American palates. Classical seeks out and nurtures family producers whose wines are made from local grape varieties and are pure expressions of the terroir. I was delighted to have lunch at Taberna del Alabardero recently to meet winemaker Isidro Fernandez Bello of Casar de Burbia, Classical Wine’s newest producer from the Bierzo region.

2006 Casar de Burbia Mencia, Bierzo ($26.99) In 1989, the Fernandez Bello family began acquiring and rehabilitating dozens of small parcels in Bierzo. They have created a contiguous property, traversed by the Camino de Santiago at altitudes up to 2300 feet. The vineyards’ perfect exposure and excellent drainage are enhanced by the region’s most mineral soils. Casar de Burbia is an outstanding expression of Mencia’s thick dark fruit. Aged in oak for 6 months, it is balanced, structured and elegant with a fresh minerality. 90 points International Wine Cellar

2006 Casar de Burbia Tebaida, Bierzo ($55.00) Grapes for Tebaida are selected bunches from old stock between 60 and 102 years old, grown at higher elevations of the estate. Concentrated, with beautiful clean aromas and flavors of black fruit, Tebaida is a pure expression of the terroir. Structured and clean, balanced with acidity and with notes of black pepper and mineral, the persistent finish is rich with sweet tannins. 92 points International Wine Cellar

To learn more about wines from Bierzo, here’s a link to a recent San Francisco Chronicle article: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2009/03/01/FDAF161O7H.DTL

The February 25, 2009 edition of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate features “Spain’s Top 100 Wine Values.” What could be more timely than a list of great wines for less than $25.00?

2006 Alto Moncayo Veraton, Campo de Borja ($23.99) is the top pick at 93 points. Made of 100% garnacha, Veraton is very spicy on the nose with “earth notes, wild black cherry and black raspberry. Dense, layered and full flavored on the palate, this hedonistic effort is balanced enough to evolve for several years…”

Parker’s second choice is 2007 Casal Novo Godello, Valdeorras ($24.99) Elegant and intense, it is full bodied and savory. Casal Novo is unoaked, fresh and clean with notes of dried pear, chalk and crushed rock. Spectacular with grilled shellfish, “it is loaded with succulent white fruits, has vibrant acidity and a lengthy, pure finish.” 92 points

More favorite Robert Parker Top 100 Spanish Wine Values in stock:

2006 Agusti Torello Mata Rosat Cava Brut Reserva, Penedes ($24.99) 92 points

2007 Lagar do Castelo Albarino, Rias Baixas ($14.99) 91 points

2004 Casa de Illana 3De5 (Ribera del Jucar) $14.99 90 points

OTHER VALUE WINES

2004 Vega Ibor, Tierra de Castilla ($8.99) With intense aromas of black currants and notes of licorice on the nose, Vega Ibor has an earthy mineral character. Aged 6 months in oak, and made of 100% Tempranillo, it has rich black cherry and boysenberry flavors. Well balanced with acidity, the presence of young wood combines seamlessly with the ripe fruit. Vega Ibor has a round, full body, sweet tannins, and a persistent aftertaste. Now on sale!

Our highly recommended 2006 Andeluna Malbec Winemaker’s Selection, Mendoza ($9.99) was the hands-down favorite at a wine tasting last weekend. Its balance of ripe fruit and acidity paired wonderfully with cassoulet.

Young Mahon: “What a Gouda wished it could be” (Steven Jenkins). Creamy and buttery with a lingering tangy finish. This semi-soft cow’s milk cheese from Menorca is perfect for melting–think grilled cheese bocadillos. A phenomenal cheese for a fabulous price. $15.99/lb. $3.99/quarter lb.

MitiBlue: A new blue made with sheep’s milk and Roquefort Penicillium. This soft velvety textured cheese reminds me of a cross between Buttermilk blue and French Roquefort. Definitely a new staff favorite! $23.99/lb. $5.99/quarter lb.

Cured Duck Salami: Rich and delicious, with perfectly balanced flavors and a juicy texture. Blended with fresh garlic, sea salt, and spices, the duck meat is then cured and hand tied. Slice some up and introduce a new flavor into your tapas!!

Duck Breast Cured & Dried: This duck breast is buttery, sweet, salty, and delicate. Thinly sliced and ready to eat, it is seasoned with sea salt, mixed peppercorns, brown sugar, and fresh garlic. Enjoy it the same way as Jamón Serrano. Try it in salads, sandwiches or on pizza.

Jose Andres made in Spain DVD, seasons 1 and 2: Spanish chef Jose Andres’ cooking show was originally shown on PBS as a series. Each season has 14 individual shows, focused on a region of Spain and its specialty foods. Travel with Jose to meet producers and then back to his demonstration kitchen to prepare recipes. $31.49 each season, 2 DVDs

Pintxos by Gerald Hirigoyen ($24.95), is the Basque chef’s long awaited tapas cookbook. Author of The Basque Kitchen, and owner of Piperade Restaurant in San Francisco, Hirigoyen introduced Piment d’Esplette to American cooks. In Pintxos, he adapts 75 authentic recipes for the home kitchen.

Blanched marcona almonds are back in stock!

What We Cooked

SOME DELICIOUS THINGS WE COOKED THIS WEEK:

Catalan Pork Sausage with Mushrooms: José Andrés cooked this on his television show, Made In Spain: Butifarra with chanterelles, pine nuts, raisins and moscatel wine. The companion Made In Spain cookbook ($35) has this recipe and many more with similar spins on traditional Spanish dishes filtered through the sensibilities of this Asturian born, Washington DC based chef.

Greek Baked Pasta: Using Grace Parisi’s recipe from the March 2009 Food & Wine, we paired our Misko No 3 pasta with ground lamb seasoned with oregano, cinnamon and cloves then topped with ricotta cheese, egg yokes and Zerto (Argentine Parmesan-Reggianito cheese) seasoned with nutmeg. While it baked, we made a chopped salad of cucumber and green pepper enlivened with a handful of big, grey, Egyptian Olives ($5.99) and chunks of Ulker Feta Cheese. We took home a chilled bottle of Boutari Retsina ($9.99) to pair with it.

WINE SPECIALS THIS WEEK

2006 Vin Nico Flor del Montgó (Yecla) $8.99 on sale! Vin Nico searches out underutilized old-vine properties all over Spain to produce affordable, well crafted wines. Flor is a blend of 85% old-vine Monastrell, 10% Merlot and 5% Shiraz. It is dark ruby in color with a nose of blue and black fruits that leap from the glass. The fruit is ripe and sweet, the tannins silky, and there is excellent concentration and length from the old vine fruit. This is a great value on a very expressive wine.

2006 Andeluna Malbec Mendoza ($9.99) One of the best under-$10.00 Malbecs, we thought it was sold out. Luck smiled on us when the distributor found 5 cases of this vintage so get it while you can! Hand crafted in collaboration with Michel Rolland, this lush Malbec is ripe and juicy. Full bodied, it has complex flavors of black currant, Morello cherry and chocolate with notes of dried fig and cassis liquor. Sweet tannins compliment the spice notes and exceptional balance. Highly recommended!

2006 Altozano Tempranillo Toledo, ($9.99) A smooth and silky Tempranillo with fruity black cherry flavors and rich chocolate notes. Grown at high elevation in Toledo, it is lightly oaked and well balanced with hints of pie cherry on the persistent finish. Versatile, Altozano is great with foods from pizza to tagines.

2007 Nuntius, Cariñena ($12.99) This terrific wine dances over the tongue with the energy of a bulerias. Importer Basilio Grueso of Casa Ventura Imports chose this blend for Nuntius after over 25 tastings with the winemaker. Made of 50% Garnacha, 30% Syrah and 20% Tempranillo, its smoky aromas lead to fruity strawberry and then deep black fruit flavors A hint of rose petals compliment the black pepper on the earthy and dry finish. Serve Nuntius with a spicy Indian curry or grilled kebabs.

NV Valdespino Contrabandista Amontillado, Jerez ($33.00) Bodegas Valdespino has been producing sherry in Jerez de la Frontera since 1430. Made from a solera that originated in 1892, Contrabandista was aged under flor for over 8 years, and further aged for 8 additional years allowing oxidation to take place. With just a touch of Pedro Ximenez for sweetness, it is round and unctuous on the palate with notes of roasted hazelnut and almond paste. Its acidic spine provides balances to the sweetness and the persistent nutty finish seems like it goes on forever. The traditional label with a galloping horse and rider is seen in bars all over Spain.

NV Tio Pepe Palomino Fino Our best selling fino has flavors of yeast and almond with a traditional touch of bitterness. It’s now available in half bottle ($9.99/375ml) and we’re also stocking Kosher Tio Pepe ($25.99/750 ml)

OUR FAVORITE PORTUGUESE CHEESES ARE BACK IN STOCK!

Serpa is one of the most famous traditional cheeses from Portugal. Extremely hard to source, we special ordered it from Portugal. Made in Alentejo from Merino sheep’s milk and aged for at least six months, its rind is rubbed with olive oil throughout curing. Serpa has a buttery interior and tangy flavor of local herbs and grasses. Wrapped in white linen, this artisanal cheese is typically served before a meal and is best with a glass of red wine from Alentejo.

Queijo Amarelo is our new favorite Portuguese cheese. Amarelo is a washed rind cheese, a blend of sheep and goats milk from Beira Baixa region. It has an astounding buttery, slightly piquant flavor with roasted onion, sea salt, notes of sweet lemon and a lingering savory finish with grassy overtones.

MUSIC

Brazilian Jazz Pianist and Dreamy Vocalist Eliane Elias is performing at Jazz Alley on February 24 & 25th. For details, go to http://www.jazzalley.com/calendar.asp. Elias’s newest CD, “Bossa Nova Stories” ($18.99), has classic tunes beautifully reinterpreted and is available here at the store.